Issue using logging winch on new to me TC35 tractor

[motownbrowne]

This critical information should have been in Post #1.

Get him Jeff, you get 'im!!

 

[mpilihp]

A quick look (feel) at the u joints

 

[mpilihp]

A quick look (feel) at the u joints

Darn tiny phones, a quick check of the ujoints and it is possible they are out of phase as yoi said. Ill need to take it off to be able to tell for sure as it has the protective cover on. Only issue is i seam to remember the shadt is an odd shape that could only let the two halfs slide together one way so a bit puzzled how i could have put it on wrong. It also could have always been that way.

Thanks for the help i will piraue this first. Will report back with findings.

Phik

 

[John_Mc]

They do make different styles of Universal joints, some of which will take more of an angle than others. However, I think your idea of adding to the bottom of the blade will help. I would consider trying to make those modifications easily reversible - so when you finally get tired of the limited pull of the small winch on your bigger tractor, you can sell it easily to help pay for your upgrade. A Norse 290 or 390 (or a Farmi 351, Uniforest 35M or 45M, or any one of a number of other brands) would be a better match for your TC 35.

 

[Rustyiron]

I think I've seen that some winches have a dual position (up down) for the pto shaft ??? Not 2 shafts but wrenching was required and perhaps drive chain shortening. IIRC this was in someone's literature.
If all else fails, you could sell that winch in short order around here, they are rare on C/L and Uncle Henry's and don't last long.

 

[mpilihp]

Hi all sorry for the long delay, between hurting my back and then having no internet access I haven't been able to upload any pictures of the finished modification.

Here it is, I extended the base down 5 inches and it is only bolted on so other than 4 bolt holes I can remove the mod if I want to sell and upgrade later on. But for my uses this does the trick.

Would have been better if the C channel was deeper and stuck out further than the original bottom lip but it works. I did find while bolting it up that the body of the winch is warped about 1/2 an inch and putting this on helped straighten it out some.





~ Phil

 

[John_Mc]

The driveshaft angle looks good. Did it stop the clunking?

I'm guessing it will be fine, but if you find the middle of you addition flexes a bit under load, you may want to add a tab to it that extends up in front of, and rests against, the original bottom lip. It would not need to be welded to the original winch part, it would just act as a bumper. (When winching, the force on the tractor and winch tries to push the winch backward. With your addition dug into the ground, the force tries to move it forward in relation to the original winch part.) In fact, if the strain looks like it is too much for the lower bolts (which is where all the load is borne), A tab in the middle and one at each end, in front of the bolts would add a lot of strength.

It may turn out you don't need to add anything. I'm just thinking out loud here. Worth keeping an eye on, anyway.

 

[mpilihp]

Hi thats a good idea, so far its holding well. I turn my bucket over and put force down onto ground so tractor doesnt move, so far that has worked.

 

[mpilihp]

So went out today and hauled in two giant Oak trees for milling, the winch worked great, no issue with angle of the PTO shaft. And as for the potential of being dragged backwards and bending the logging winch plate, If I have the parking brake on the tractor doesn't move and stalls out the winch. Remember this winch is meant for smaller tractor and mine can easily hold its ground with the parking brake. I did find another issue though and will write a post with question in the New Holland forum.

Thanks ~ Phil

 

[Gordon Gould]

Glad you and your machine are fixed up and back to work. From your pic I can see how short and stubby the drive shaft is. Doesn't take much misalignment to get a sever angle. Good fix !!

gg