Buying Advice Kioti NX or RX and horsepower needed

[Coyote machine]

IT can tell you, he uses a non-Kioti backhoe, a Woods I believe, and it has 1 foot deeper depth capability from what he stated above, than a Kioti subframe backhoe model #KB2485, which is what I have.

I would really listen to what you're being advised as to what size tractor will meet your needs. You can always go bigger, but ask yourself why? Why spend more money than you have to, and for negligible difference, if any in end results. You're not going to cut 2 weekends off your total time by getting the biggest Kioti you think might speed up the job. The hoe size is standardized across Kioti's lineup and the 2485 is the biggest available. Having a more powerful pump and tractor won't be translated into a quantifiable amount of time saved, IMHO, but there will definitely be a quantifiable amount of money spent to go biggest. You will feel that difference.

Curious about the no industrial use you mentioned. Is hiring a contractor, or having one work on a Saturday/Sunday for instance, prohibited where you live?

When people talk about aeration of previously compacted soil and creating a lawn where trees were previously, it doesn't seem like you need to do too much work to get the area prepped. I would hazard a guess that having the correct soil type might be more significant than most other considerations; for instance you might need to throw down some topsoil to prep for a lawn. I'm not a landscaper per se, more of a tree guy, so others can fill you in better on this topic.

And, one can talk theory about how many feet/minute you could dig a trench all day long, but your land will determine along with skillset of the operator how long it actually takes to do the job. Rocks, roots etc can seriously impede progress, especially if you seek a straight line result. Both IT and I worked with MIE, (Michigan Iron & Equipment) to design and 'perfect' a root ripper that fits our backhoes, for just the purpose of tearing out roots around stumps, to allow us to remove said stump. Tractor backhoes, and even mini-exs are not the best equipped to tear out stumps, BUT with the ripper tooth we had made by MIE we can easily maneuver around the stump and rip the roots which allows us to then get purchase on it to finish it off. It makes a world of difference when dealing with roots and stumps of most any size. I keep it mounted to my hoe along with MIE's, welded to my hoe's dipper stick hydraulically operated thumb. The combination of those two custom tools is invaluable to me. If you decide to check them out ask for Bob, the owner, and *tell him I sent you. *For no reason other than he knows who referred you there. They are good people, and are a Kioti dealer, so they know their stuff. In fact, why not ask Bob what he thinks would be the best machine for your tasks list....

Michigan Iron and Equipment Morrice, MI (855) 265-459

 

[trctorfan17]

You make excellent points, Coyote.

I truly appreciate the honest opinion you & IT are providing.

Funny, I asked similar questions to JD owners, about choosing between 3039R and 4044R. I got unanimous feedback to go with the 4044R over 3039R. They said more powerful and wider tractors with larger wheelbase are definitely better. To quote them:

"The 4 series is going to give you more power & more weight which both help with ground engaging work."
"Go with the 4044R. Bigger tractor, more power, better lifting power better all around tractor."

oh, and regarding the commercial equipment, it is just out of respect to neighbors...given that industrial equipment (like Deere 310J) are usually much louder than residential toys (like RX7320 or NX6010).

I honestly wanted to buy a Deere 110 TLB, truly industrial with 23 gpm...awesome tractor, you can get for around 26,000 with just 1,000 hours on it. And that one, you would get a real hydraulic pumping for the front post hole digger and true SSQA.

So now, I am looking to buy a modular barn to park the tractor...so may be i reconsider buying a used Deere 110 or 310J.

Do you think a barn size 30 deep, 20 wide, 10 feet high is big enough for tractor? I just can't park the tractor outside, my wife won't like it.

Any idea a fair price of such a small barn?

Thank you

 

[trctorfan17]

...and it is only Sunday that I don't use industrial equipment...Saturday, I make all the noise I can.

 

[Coyote machine]

You make excellent points, Coyote.

I truly appreciate the honest opinion you & IT are providing.

Funny, I asked similar questions to JD owners, about choosing between 3039R and 4044R. I got unanimous feedback to go with the 4044R over 3039R. They said more powerful and wider tractors with larger wheelbase are definitely better. To quote them:

"The 4 series is going to give you more power & more weight which both help with ground engaging work."
"Go with the 4044R. Bigger tractor, more power, better lifting power better all around tractor."

oh, and regarding the commercial equipment, it is just out of respect to neighbors...given that industrial equipment (like Deere 310J) are usually much louder than residential toys (like RX7320 or NX6010).

I honestly wanted to buy a Deere 110 TLB, truly industrial with 23 gpm...awesome tractor, you can get for around 26,000 with just 1,000 hours on it. And that one, you would get a real hydraulic pumping for the front post hole digger and true SSQA.

So now, I am looking to buy a modular barn to park the tractor...so may be i reconsider buying a used Deere 110 or 310J.

Do you think a barn size 30 deep, 20 wide, 10 feet high is big enough for tractor? I just can't park the tractor outside, my wife won't like it.

Any idea a fair price of such a small barn?

Thank you

You're welcome. Go with a Kioti of your HP choosing. You could of course get a bigger badder JD, but why, when you can get exactly what you want with a properly specked Kioti?
On the barn thing; if you've got to have one make sure you will have high enough door to allow tractor with ROPS or cab to move in/out with NO height issues. I can't move up to next bigger size tractor in my current barn because I only have a 8' plus door height. The shed I just built for implement storage, has 9' full opening in case I decide to go up to next size tractor. I built my shed 26' deep, IIRC, and it is adequate for my implements.

I'd say again, maybe slow down, decide one thing at a time, tractor first, barn second, etc.
And your 'Deere friends are likely saying one can get x amount of work done, and probably so, BUT you've never even driven a tractor before so your ability to maximize output is going to be limited no matter what you buy for quite some time, IMHO, unless you're a wiz kid at things you have no prior experience having done previously. But of course the choice to buy a particular brand and size is all yours. We're just not going to blow smoke at you about conquering the World in a day, no matter what you buy.
What if any experience do you have operating machinery of any type, just out of curiosity? You don't have to say, I'd just like to try to gauge how realistic you are being, based on your expectations.
Below is a link to a pic of the ripper tooth on a Kioti BH2485 with a mechanical thumb also shown on the dipper stick.
The ripper tooth is AWESOME!

miemachinerydivision

 

[cat fever]

The barn size you stated would be fine. But keep in mind, no matter how big you build you will always need more space.

 

[IslandTractor]

Trctorfan, I get the impression that you have done a lot of internet research but may have fallen prey to the "bigger is better" malarkey that permeates some TBN discussions. Keep in mind that what you really want is the RIGHT size tractor. A JD110 is a fine TLB but much bigger than needed for a do it yourself project of the size you have described. Honestly I could have done the project with a 20hp tlb in the time you've put into research. Not trying to knock your effort just pointing out that virtually any SCUT or CUT with even 4gpm hydraulic output is easily enough to do the work. To give you an analogy, you have a task equivalent to making a supply run to Costco. You seem focused on getting a F350 or F450 to haul supplies home that would easily fit in a minivan.

Even a Kubota BX25 could do the needed work pretty efficiently. Really. Hydraulics and diesel are amazingly efficient.

I think the biggest issue you have is whether the trucked in topsoil can be delivered in single truckloads close to where you need it. Moving a quarter yard 50 feet per trip is more efficient than moving a full yard 300 feet per trip.

I also think you've been over sold on the compaction/aeration thing. A couple of passes with a simple land rake will loosen all the topsoil you need for seeding grass even if trucks have compacted the soil.

 

[IslandTractor]

BTW, a ripper is indeed awesome but only if taking out small and medium trees or stumps is high on your to do list. Seems that some big equipment has already done that work so you just need a standard trenching bucket. 12" or 18" would be fine.

 

[trctorfan17]

You're welcome. Go with a Kioti of your HP choosing. You could of course get a bigger badder JD, but why, when you can get exactly what you want with a properly specked Kioti?
On the barn thing; if you've got to have one make sure you will have high enough door to allow tractor with ROPS or cab to move in/out with NO height issues. I can't move up to next bigger size tractor in my current barn because I only have a 8' plus door height. The shed I just built for implement storage, has 9' full opening in case I decide to go up to next size tractor. I built my shed 26' deep, IIRC, and it is adequate for my implements.

I'd say again, maybe slow down, decide one thing at a time, tractor first, barn second, etc.
And your 'Deere friends are likely saying one can get x amount of work done, and probably so, BUT you've never even driven a tractor before so your ability to maximize output is going to be limited no matter what you buy for quite some time, IMHO, unless you're a wiz kid at things you have no prior experience having done previously. But of course the choice to buy a particular brand and size is all yours. We're just not going to blow smoke at you about conquering the World in a day, no matter what you buy.
What if any experience do you have operating machinery of any type, just out of curiosity? You don't have to say, I'd just like to try to gauge how realistic you are being, based on your expectations.
Below is a link to a pic of the ripper tooth on a Kioti BH2485 with a mechanical thumb also shown on the dipper stick.
The ripper tooth is AWESOME!

miemachinerydivision

Thanks Coyote, I will definitely have a 9' high sliding door on barn. And, thank you for the ripper tooth idea, I love getting the most power toys to finish jobs in no time. I will get the ripper tooth.

I also like the idea of a cab, makes it much quieter...

I never operated any machinery before. That's why I am asking so many questions, but i learn fast.

You're right, one thing at a time, tractor first, then barn...I am not gonna bother test driving Kubota or JD.

 

[trctorfan17]

Trctorfan, I get the impression that you have done a lot of internet research but may have fallen prey to the "bigger is better" malarkey that permeates some TBN discussions. Keep in mind that what you really want is the RIGHT size tractor. A JD110 is a fine TLB but much bigger than needed for a do it yourself project of the size you have described. Honestly I could have done the project with a 20hp tlb in the time you've put into research. Not trying to knock your effort just pointing out that virtually any SCUT or CUT with even 4gpm hydraulic output is easily enough to do the work. To give you an analogy, you have a task equivalent to making a supply run to Costco. You seem focused on getting a F350 or F450 to haul supplies home that would easily fit in a minivan.

Even a Kubota BX25 could do the needed work pretty efficiently. Really. Hydraulics and diesel are amazingly efficient.

I think the biggest issue you have is whether the trucked in topsoil can be delivered in single truckloads close to where you need it. Moving a quarter yard 50 feet per trip is more efficient than moving a full yard 300 feet per trip.

I also think you've been over sold on the compaction/aeration thing. A couple of passes with a simple land rake will loosen all the topsoil you need for seeding grass even if trucks have compacted the soil.

Kubota BX25! That's like the joke JD 1025R...that's really kid's toy. So explain to me this: the digging force for backhoe is 2,036 (for 1025R) and 3,748 (for KB2485). That is almost twice the force, and when you add to that the weights of the tractors (2,000 lb vs 4,000 lb) and gpm (3.5 vs 10), how can you really convince me that there is no difference in time to complete the job? If the job you described earlier takes 6 hours with 1025R, I would expect to save some noticeable time with DX? Otherwise, it makes no sense from physics. True, the operator's skills are so important, but really how difficult is it to read the manual and start using the hydraulic levers...may be takes one hour to go up the learning curve...but then it is just a tedious task of left right front back.

I usually watch a youtube video on how to operate something, and then go for it.

For the FEL work, you're right...I can save time getting trucks to dump in different spots. But if I can make 200 trips (using 0.8 yard bucket) instead of 400 trips (using 0.4 yard bucket), then it may be worth getting the larger bucket. Especially if I am selling that in few years...then I get most of my money back. Also, I am paying cash...so no interest lost here.

And, you're right about the F350 F450 analogy. The thing is, I may be buying a larger property (10+ acres) soon and that may have its own tasks.

 

[trctorfan17]

The barn size you stated would be fine. But keep in mind, no matter how big you build you will always need more space.

Thank you Lynn. Yes, I agree...I have 3 car garage and all cars are parked outside...my garage is full of yard stuff.