New barn with living space best foundation?

[dyrne]

I am about to pull the trigger on a new barn. It will be more of a classic post and beam with rough cut posts and rough cut boards on exterior. Since I want to use part of the central "hay loft" as living space though I'm going back and forth on the posts. I can concrete in the ground pressure treated then tie the rough-cut beams to it or I can do concrete piers or I could I guess pour a slab at least for the center aisle and put the posts on the slab..

I know concrete piers will last longer but posts sitting on the piers don't seem as stable for a tall barn and I'm in a very windy area. Just looking for some similar experience with this or opinions.

 

[747driver]

Morton is usually on the leading edge of new design products. I like this system. I think you can buy these yourself.

Morton Buildings Foundation System - YouTube
Video for morton pole barn concrete footers▶ 3:52
Morton Buildings Foundation System - YouTube
Oct 7, 2014 - Uploaded by MortonBuildingsAdv
Morton Buildings has engineered a foundation system that offers superior strength for your new building ...

Chuck

 

[Raspy]

The wind load will have to be handled by a proper shear system, not just posts set in concrete. This could be diagonal bracing, but is best handled by the entire exterior sheeted with plywood or OSB before your siding boards go on.

I used steel H posts with bolts set in concrete footings. The posts are on 12 foot centers. A perimeter footing allowed me to set a sill plate and stud the walls on conventional 16" centers. Then instead of the diagonal bracing that was part of the original design, I skinned the entire outside with 5/8" OSB. The roof was sheeted with two layers of crosshatched 7/16" OSB. The result was an extremely stiff building with about 1/3 garage and 2/3 living space. The slab went in after the posts and roof were up, but before the walls were done. I poured up to the bottom of the posts and made an 8" slab thickness with radiant heat throughout.

If you want to use sheetrock and finish out a living space with cabinets, etc, you can't have much flexing, so the shearing method works well. It also allows for a a good moisture barrier and insulation.

 

[Egon]

Keep the wood above ground. There are different methods on doing this.

 

[RNeumann]

Wood and dirt = wood rot- even power companies and the railroad have replace the wood touching the ground. So choice 1 is out in my mind. I'm all about having a concrete slab inside my shop/barn etc. If that is your plan as well get prices for piers plus the slab and slab and footings. I'm guessing it will be a close.

As for the wind load the term you are after is racking, sheer and moment load. The way to prevent racking or the building leaning is with sheer walls- think adding plywood to a wall. Sinking a post into the ground and adding side/wind load creates a moment or moment load. The post in the ground resists the leaning.
Spend the few bucks to hire an engineer or get a set of plans or builder that has had the engineering done.

 

[oosik]

Concrete in the ground - - wood above ground. Build it to last.

 

[LD1]

Concrete in the ground - - wood above ground. Build it to last.

Agree. Thats why my 40x72 shop I built....I didnt do a "pole barn", rather a poured foundation/block/stick build

 

[MMalabama]

Lets keep in mind that most people build "Pole Barns" because its an easier and cheaper way to get a barn. Dyrne might not have enough to put in a footer and frame up walls. We all know that would be better, but it may not be achievable money wise. I feel if you use post anchors in piers and use a header to connect all posts with diagonal arm bracing you could get the stability you seek.

 

[LD1]

Lets keep in mind that most people build "Pole Barns" because its an easier and cheaper way to get a barn. Dyrne might not have enough to put in a footer and frame up walls. We all know that would be better, but it may not be achievable money wise. I feel if you use post anchors in piers and use a header to connect all posts with diagonal arm bracing you could get the stability you seek.

If you can dig the footer, and lay block, there is little to no cost difference.

If hiring it done, the cost difference is the labor, as block+foundation is alot more labor intensive and requires a backhoe/excavator

 

[dyrne]

Sorry for the lack of response -it's been a crazy week. I appreciate all the replys and will look them over. If it takes an extra 10k to build it right I can probably do that. I'm really set on the rough-cut post and beam type barn but I'd do the foundation however is best. If I put this much into the thing, I'd like to do it right. I don't want to be rebuilding 10 years from now. Thanks again.