Tractor for mountain property

   / Tractor for mountain property #21  
everyone has missed one big advantage of a gear tractor, if you are in a steep slippery rough spot and need to get off your tractor to do anything, on a hydro you are relying on your brake lock to hold your tractor a gear tractor can be placed in its lowest gear shut off and it will not move, no brake is going to jump loose or slip off.

When I need a fail safe parking brake I lower the FEL bucket to contact the ground.
 
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   / Tractor for mountain property #22  
If that were true, you'd never see tractors like this in farm fields...

View attachment 522488

I was in the Palouse of Washington state last week and saw several of these 20,000 pound tractors pulling heavy Disc Harrows. But, really, how often are Big Ag tractors discussed in this site?

Seldom are tractors with anything but a Category I or Category II Three Point Hitch discussed here. The tractor in the photo you attached has a Category IV or Category V Three Point Hitch, if it has any form of Three Point Hitch whatsoever.
 
   / Tractor for mountain property #23  
Well, I am going to add my 2 cents and probably create a firestorm.
 
   / Tractor for mountain property #25  
Well, I am going to add my 2 cents and probably create a firestorm.
Conventional wisdom has always been that a standard transmission was more suited than a for hills and pulling a load. However, the hydrostatic drive transmissions and automatic transmissions in pick-ups have come a long way and holding up very well. I have a 3 speed hydrostatic drive on a little massey ferguson and it may be the best thing on the tractor, other parts and system on the tractor have failed miserably. As for a transmission, I think it is a coin toss and personal preference.
What about a cab? A cab is really nice in the winter pushing snow when the temperature is 20 degrees or less. However, you mentioned mowing mountain trails. What about tree limb over hang on your trails? Will a cab clear any branches.
Farm? You mentioned a farm. How many acres a involved? Is it mostly cattle and hay? Are you growing and selling fresh produce? Are you raising field crops? I would suggest the minimum requirements. 4 wheel drive, a front end loader (possible with fork depennding on what your plans) fluid in rear tires for added rear weight and traction and a set of chains for the rears. Generally snow does not hinder those little four wheel drives, but packed snow and especially ice can hinder you. A set is chains on the back should be enough to grip and get you moving. As for tires, I would go with an ag tread verses industrial or turf tires. I think ag tires provide the best grip.
As for the size of tractor? I generally like a little more tractor than necessary. No power issues and easier on the tractor. Things just seem to go better. If your growing produce, I'd recommend 40-45 hp. Give you plenty of tractor for a brush hog an bigger tiller. Should also handle a 2 bottom plow and small disc.
If it's cattle and hay, I would bump up to 50-60 hp. One again somebody going to claim they pulled a baler with a 25 hp tractor. People will say you only need 35-40 hp to pull a baler. I pull my baler with 70-80 hp tractor. I got plenty of tractor, tractor nearly plays with that baler, not hard on tractor and things seem to go better. If you have a 60 hp tractor, you can set round bale with 3 pt bale spear. Don't know if modern 60 hp tractor/loader will set round bales. It should, the old ones did it. I think the old ones were more beefy than some of this neew stuff. A 60 hp tractor should pull a 3-16 plow and 10-12 ft disc.
Here is were a 300-500 hp tractor comes into play and is relevant. I live in the heart of the farm belt. You got guys turning 1000 (s) of acres. Nearly everybody has John Deere or case-ih. Some of these tractor brands I didn't even know existed until I found this sight. I know guys and I'm one of them who bought light utility tractors and they did not stand up. The work on 10 acres close to town. I won't mention brand names, but pretty much everything around here is John Deere and case-ih. The guys that have the big stuff also need utility tractors and light utility tractors. They are sticking with John Deere or case-ih and they are holding up pretty well. John Deere and case-ih have a vast parts network and dealers are all over the place. However I have heard that John Deere and case-ih light tractors are not near the quality of the big ag tractors. Brand is up to you and everyone has their reason for the brand they like. But, I would encourage you to take a good look at John Deere and case-ih.
 
   / Tractor for mountain property #26  
I don't like my tractors hydros but for your application I too will go for that as the better alternative. Other thing is make or buy spacers for the rears to assist in lateral stability. Here's what I made for my 2400 and the length was determined by my tires fitting inside the cutting dimension of my 5' rotary mower. The spacer is a piece of 8" steel pipe, the flanges are one quarter inch plate steel. I did the drawing and had a machine shop do the machine work on the plate and I did the rest. Cost was about 100 bucks.
 

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   / Tractor for mountain property #28  
If I were working on steep hills, I'd consider using a tractor like my old 1964 MF135 diesel.

MF135 stump2.JPGMF135 stump1 (1).JPG

The MF135 is a straddle tractor which you ride like a horse with your legs straddling the transmission housing.

MF135 straddle.JPG

The rear wheels have 16" dia rims with 18" wide tires that are 2/3 filled with water. So you end up with a wide wheel track (~80") and a low center of gravity (centerline of the rear axle is about 17" high).

You won't find many modern straddle tractors like the MF135. One of the closest equivalents is the Case IH JX which would be my choice for your work on slopes. You could trick it out with rear wheels like the ones on my MF135 to lower the center of gravity.

Case IH JX straddle tractor.PNG


Good luck
 
   / Tractor for mountain property #29  
A MF135 in slopes? It as absolute no traction and no brakes and are best on flat land, I have one and it's a very nice tractor when it's quite flat.
 
   / Tractor for mountain property #30  
The dealer put rear spacers on my Branson and I had them mount the smallest diameter of the three tire/wheel packages available for 20/25 series Bransons. That lowers the CG vs the package it came with, and makes it more stable on slopes, at the cost of lower ground clearance and slightly slower speed. For me the stability was worth the tradeoffs. Our land is steep. Between slopes and trees/brush there's only limited places I can operate a tractor. No long runs in any direction.

For me HST is the way to go. It makes changing speed while running a PTO implement easy. My mowing involves a lot of speed changes, turns and backing up. That's be a pain on a clutch tractor. HST's also just easier to drive in general. I'm very comfortable with manual transmissions and clutches on various two and wheeled vehicles for the last 40 years but it doesn't bother me to get a non clutch transmission when it's a better fit for the tasks at hand.
 

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