Timberline Chainsaw Sharpener

[Sawyer Rob]

I used one a few times, it worked pretty good, once you learn how to set it up.

I have a Oregon chain sharpener and also a cheapo sharpener...

The Ore is the much better sharpener because it's "stiffer", has more adjustments, has better quality and comes with a much better grinding wheel. There is a learning curve to learn to sharpen chains "properly" with one...

I think for a quy that doesn't use a chainsaw a lot, the Timberline is the better choice.

SR

 

[OLV1071571]

I cut about 10 trees a season and most of them are mature (16-24 inches in diameter, mostly oak and hickory). I have to sharpen quite often and hoping that with more positive feedback this will be the system i go with.

 

[Ford850]

I cut about 10 trees a season and most of them are mature (16-24 inches in diameter, mostly oak and hickory). I have to sharpen quite often and hoping that with more positive feedback this will be the system i go with.

I researched the Timberline a couple times, but never bought one. I don't think you'll find anything but good reviews on it. The only reason I didn't buy one was that I can file my chains now with petty good success, and it only takes a minute or two. It was just hard to justify the cost for me. I usually hand file mine until about half worn out, then take to the saw shop to get a good refresh, then continue to file until the chains are worn out. From what I read, the Timberline will give great results every time if set up properly.

 

[JRobyn]

I can buy 2 Dremels and a dozen rotary stones in each diameter for what one of those costs! Last "stones" I got were diamond. Too soon to tell if they will significantly out-perform regular aluminum oxide.

 

[OLV1071571]

I can buy 2 Dremels and a dozen rotary stones in each diameter for what one of those costs! Last "stones" I got were diamond. Too soon to tell if they will significantly out-perform regular aluminum oxide.

I thought about this option. How do you ensure the 30 degree angle when you sharpen? I assume its not that important for most people and they just freehand it. My logic is simply that I want to make the chain last as long as i can so i dont want to under or over sharpen the angle. Additionally i will be sharing this with my father in law in which case he doesn't have as steady of a hand.

 

[Larry Caldwell]

I use a 12 volt rotary sharpener that cost me about $30. I can pop the hood on the pickup, clip the leads to the battery and have a chain touched up in 5 minutes. I also have a bench chain sharpener, but never use it.

Shop Oregon Chainsaw Sharpening Kit at Lowes.com

The thing that ruins chains is cutting dirty wood. When I drop a tree I cut it where it falls, then move the firewood out with the front end loader. Drag one through the dirt and get used to sharpening chains.

If a chain is not throwing good chips, you can file the rakers down a little to give the teeth a better bite.

 

[OLV1071571]

Perfect. Thanks Larry.

 

[ericm979]

It's not difficult to freehand with a file. Just match the angle that's already there and file straight. I hold the chain down with my other hand so the tooth doesn't move under the file.

I do almost all my sharpening freehand with files. I only bought an Oregon 410 this year when I started doing a lot of brush cutting. It gets used on the rare occaisions where I rock a chain or let one get so worn that it'd take a long time to file it sharp. I usually keep up on the chains going two tanks max between sharpenings.

 

[RyeThomas]

I've looked at these, did a bunch of research and found they can have problems touching up Fowled chains. I cut a fair amount and even clean trees I've dropped sometimes pick up dirt/debis/rock and fowl chains. I went with a Granberg G106B years ago and love the thing. I can also change my angle to whatever I want with no equipment change. It immediately improved my chain sharpening vs free hand or any other guide I tried.
Just another option.

 

[lennyzx11]

Hi Everyone,

Checking to see if anyone has any experience in using this chainsaw sharpener. Did a search and didn't see anything pop up on this so i figured i would ask the forum.

Timberline Chainsaw Sharpener |Sharpen Your Chainsaw

Thanks!

I picked up mine last summer and have about 5 chains I've ran through sharpening. I like it a lot.
The capability is there to sharpen out on the the wood site but I just sharpen a handful of chains on the bench and swap as i go in the woods. And a set of files for a quick dress during a gas/oil fill.

It seems to me the sharpened chain is sharper than a new one also.

One thing for those using the sharpener.

After I mount it per the instructions(which are kinda poor BTW) do you have to sharpen one set of teeth by turning the bit IN to the tooth from the outside?
Bad description I think. sorry...
I mount the block. then the bit goes in from the right side angled toward the back left. But when I do the opposite teeth, The bit won't go into the rear guide hole from back RH side to left front(towards me)
I don't have it with me but seems like it hits the bar with the crank handle.

I have to move the bit to the opposite side but it's pushing into the tooth from the outside opposite of the original direction.
Teeth seem equally sharp, but seems like I might be not doing that second side quite as intended by manufacturer.