How to weld in a straight line?

[Cord]

Not sure if it's my aging eyes or my helmet, but I can't see soap stone marks. Even very heavy perpendicular stop marks are not noticed and I'll burn right past them. I have a hardfacing project coming up and I want the beads to be really nice parallel lines. I'd use soap stone to layout the lines, but I already know that I can't see them. Looking for your suggestions!

 

[ovrszd]

Not professional by any means, but, I drop tack welds on the line spaced however far apart I can see them. Then I'm always welding toward the next tack.

 

[flyerdan]

What shade lens are you using, and how is the ambient lighting on the project? You should be able to see what you're working on, even without an arc.
I use an autodark that is a 10 or 11 and it requires pretty good inside lighting to see, and of course good clean cover plates make a world of difference.

 

[CincyFlyer]

What shade lens are you using, and how is the ambient lighting on the project? You should be able to see what you're working on, even without an arc.
I use an autodark that is a 10 or 11 and it requires pretty good inside lighting to see, and of course good clean cover plates make a world of difference.

Yeah, I've used spot lights so that I could see the darned work! Welding a bead and finding you're way off to one side isn't much fun.

 

[Cord]

It's an adjustable auto darkening helmet. I tried lightening it and found my eyes hurting. I'd guess I'm around a 10 currently. Could check tonight when I get home. Lens has some smoke stains and a few splatter marks but it's not too bad. Generally clean it before starting.

 

[ovrszd]

An OCD friend of mine uses a sharp punch and marks his line following the dots. He would grind off a weld that wasn't straight.

 

[Gary Fowler]

For most welding applications you shouldn't need anything more than a shade #10. If you still cant see a soapstone mark lighten up to a #9. IMO, if you cant see a soapstone mark, you likely cant see your weld puddle either which is not good.

Contrary to common way of thinking, the lighter the conditions as in outside in the sunlight, the lower welding lens shade you need to use and the darker it is the darker shade you need. This is because your eyes pupils dilate in the dark so they see better in the dark therefore you need a darker lens to keep from squinting because of the bright light. Conversely in the bright sunlight the pupils are constricted already so when you strike an arc, you need to let in more welding light in order to see.

 

[/pine]

A cheater lens might help some...

 

[ovrszd]

I've got a high dollar Miller helmet that is 9 years old. I've also got a cheap helmet, can't remember brand, that I bought at Farm store. I can see better with the cheap helmet.

 

[Cord]

If you still cant see a soapstone mark lighten up to a #9. IMO, if you cant see a soapstone mark, you likely cant see your weld puddle either which is not good.

Yes, I'm having a very hard time seeing the weld puddle. Heck of time trying to get my edges to stitch because I can't see them. I find myself over compensating by shoving my face right into the weld.