Chimney Fire - Is it Possible with a Selaed Insert?

[eddie48]

Baking Soda. We used to put it in a plastic bag (1 gallon size; about 3 or 4 cups of baking soda). Drop it down the chimney and when it gets to the hot spot, it bursts open and the baking soda puts out the fire. Sometimes took 2 or 3 tries to put out a big one. Someone told me that baking soda is the primary ingredient in dry chemical fire extinguishers. You could also just throw the bag into the woodstove.

 

[TnAndy]

In some areas a screen is mandatory as a 'spark arrester'.
Sparks do fly and are known to start forest fires.
Same applies to exhausts on chain saws and ATV's.

Yeah, I assumed it was a tight, small mesh screen the first time it happened, but when I got up there, found it wasn't

 

[Deere Dude]

Funny thing is the screen on mine is fairly large mesh opening....more to keep birds out than to arrest sparks. Diamond mesh that is like 3/4" at the wide point....but it still clogs up. I was thinking of making it taller, it's only about 4-5" tall on the mesh part....was thinking that much again, and it would have a hard time clogging up that much....maybe. My roof is really tall, and steep pitch....don't enjoy walking the ridge line !

I have a problem with little birds sneaking into the FP. Tried a medium screen but plugged up in a couple weeks and lost draft so I got rid of the screen. Steep roof and looking for answer too..

 

[Coyote machine]

I have a problem with little birds sneaking into the FP. Tried a medium screen but plugged up in a couple weeks and lost draft so I got rid of the screen. Steep roof and looking for answer too..

1st; get a suitable harness and attachment system to be on your roof/ridge safely. Next buy a round or square or whatever shape your flue outlet size is cap with SS screen already built in. That should solve both issues.

 

[aczlan]

1st; rent a manlift. Next buy a round or square or whatever shape your flue outlet size is cap with SS screen already built in. That should solve both issues.

FTFY... A towed 35' manlift is $160/day around here and makes life MUCH easier.

Aaron Z

 

[Deere Dude]

1st; get a suitable harness and attachment system to be on your roof/ridge safely. Next buy a round or square or whatever shape your flue outlet size is cap with SS screen already built in. That should solve both issues.

One would think that. I have a round 6" pipe with cap. An option is for stainless screen to insert it. I had some same size galvanized screen so I tried that because of cost. Didn't work. Plugged up very fast. Burned Dry wood and hot fires. I am thinking as the smoke cools it accumulates. I took the screen out and will try to find a larger screen.

On 10/12 metal roof at peak so everything needs to be planned out well before I make a move. I installed a bracket on the roof to hook an extension ladder half to reach the thing comfortably and safely. Ext ladder to get on first level roof then another ladder to scale the long steep metal section. I just need to find a bigger screen than what the pipe company suggests and offers.

 

[Egon]

Know a feller that uses a pellet gun to unclog the spark screen.

 

[TnAndy]

On 10/12 metal roof at peak so everything needs to be planned out well before I make a move.

Yeah...10/12 here as well. Shingle roof, but kinda high on the lower side. I usually walk up the valley intersection of the garage, the walk the ridge line back to the chimney.
Wife won't watch....

 

[Coyote machine]

FTFY... A towed 35' manlift is $160/day around here and makes life MUCH easier.

Aaron Z

For some maybe; A harness and rope setup will accomodate most any roof, and is a one time buy with countless future uses; a manlift may not be able to access the area, as in my case where the gable end is adjacent to a 2 bay garage, limiting access to the chimney altogether. And $160/day may be reasonable once but not 2x/year, every year, IMO.

One would think that. I have a round 6" pipe with cap. An option is for stainless screen to insert it. I had some same size galvanized screen so I tried that because of cost. Didn't work. Plugged up very fast. Burned Dry wood and hot fires. I am thinking as the smoke cools it accumulates. I took the screen out and will try to find a larger screen.

On 10/12 metal roof at peak so everything needs to be planned out well before I make a move. I installed a bracket on the roof to hook an extension ladder half to reach the thing comfortably and safely. Ext ladder to get on first level roof then another ladder to scale the long steep metal section. I just need to find a bigger screen than what the pipe company suggests and offers.[/Q

Chimney Liners | WoodlandDirect.com: Chimney Liner Parts, Rigid Chimney Liner, Aluminum Chimney Liner Kits-Woodlanddirect.com is just one store that offers every possible solution to chimney lining. Note that any chimney liner should have an insulation wrap installed around its entire length to keep the SS liner consistently warm from top to bottom, and to protect the surface of the original chimney materials from becoming too hot. Also offered is a powdered mix that hardens after being poured between the exterior of a SS liner and the original flue material. This mix is easily used when there is low clearance between liner and flue. Caps with and without screens and high wind type caps are also offered.

BTW, I have a long length of screw together 6" dia. SS liner, in addition to a flexible section of SS, and some Metalbestos sections, both from when I retrofitted my chimney and went to gas insert fireplaces. They are for sale, also a Jotul woodstove and a (not sure of brand) wood fireplace insert that were removed from my main house and my flip property, when the renovations to gas heat were implemented. If interested send me a PM to find out more.

Thanks,

CM

 

[cqaigy2]

One would think that. I have a round 6" pipe with cap. An option is for stainless screen to insert it. I had some same size galvanized screen so I tried that because of cost. Didn't work. Plugged up very fast. Burned Dry wood and hot fires. I am thinking as the smoke cools it accumulates. I took the screen out and will try to find a larger screen.

On 10/12 metal roof at peak so everything needs to be planned out well before I make a move. I installed a bracket on the roof to hook an extension ladder half to reach the thing comfortably and safely. Ext ladder to get on first level roof then another ladder to scale the long steep metal section. I just need to find a bigger screen than what the pipe company suggests and offers.

I'm not doubting your wood is dry, but i had similar problem with some oak i had harvested from a friend of mine. I thought it was pretty dry after a couple years in the wood shed, but i was having problems with my screen plugging up. Somebody on TBN said it might seem dry, but the results are the proof. So i tried again on the third year, and haven't had problems with the screen plugging up. It's much more humid on this side of Washington state then the east side that i was familiar with when burning wood. The softwoods like fir or pine dry pretty well after a year in the wood shed, but that oak was so much denser then our usually firewood. I burn some cherry, alder and maples, which are denser and take a little longer to dry then the fir and pine. Love the oak though.