Rear Finish Mower 72" Woods PRD7200 vs TS and RK and???

[Rock Crawler]

Your information from concerning the bearings is not right......unless they changed their design over the years.

My Woods RD7200 has two peace cup and cone tapered roller bearings on the spindle assemblies. Just checked the parts list in the manual to be certain.

My mower has been flawless for 20 years now. One note, it has always been cleaned, properly lubricated, and stored under roof when not in use, as is all my equipment. There are probably other good makes out there. I can only give you my experience with Woods.

I was looking at the current RD vs the current PRD. The Professional PRD is a tapered roller while the residential RD is a ball bearing. That said, I did read on some forum that the old RD was the equal to todays PRD, and that the PRD designation came about as a way for them to make a cheaper and less robust version that would be called the RD. So at 10 years old, I do not know if this one is equal to todays PRD, or if this one was made after the change to two models and this RD may be equal to the current light duty RD series.

I called and taled to that Woods dealer yesterday and he was pretty adamant about reinforcing his opinion that the PRD version is the one that he recommends and stocks, he can order the RD... but for the $500 savings he would try hard to talk me out of the new light duty RD model.

The problem with the used ones is that I am not educated enough to know what is what in the legacy Woods line.

 

[teg]

...I am not educated enough to know what is what in the legacy Woods line.

They make good quality stuff, and have been doing so for a long long time. I don't think you can go wrong with even the RD line, believe me, if it doesn't hold up, we would hear about it on TBN.

 

[Oldoak]

It appears you are doing some good "in depth" research. And just what you are finding out proves it is good to gather information and recommendations from various sources. It all boils down to decisions, decisions. :confused2:

 

[teg]

I've seen people who drown in research to the point that they can not make a decision because there's too many variables!!!

 

[Rock Crawler]

This is the one for $1000 locally, he says that he bought is used and that it was about 5 years old when he bought it, and he bought it about 5 years back. So he is unsure of the true vintage. The serial number appears to be 642736, would any of you know if this might be a good unit that was made before the RD became the economy model? Pictures are attached.... I think I am going to try to make a deal on this one. I can clean it up and paint it Kubota Orange and it will be as good as new once I change the oil in the gear box and replace the blades with some of those Gator blades.

What would you offer? He is asking $1000. I am thinking $800 would be a killer deal... would you even try to bargain lower?

 

[Rock Crawler]

I actually called Woods and gave them the serial number, this is a good one!

He said it has "Rollers and cups" not ball bearings like the current RD series. I also asked about service/replacement parts and he said that for this "new" of a mower, everything is available. Okay... what would you try to start at with a price offering... it's advertised on social media, so I assume that he totally expects to bargain to an agreeable price.

 

[teg]

What do the blades look like? That can tell you if he hit rocks or if it's been taken care of (somewhat). If they are bent or the cutting edge has not been touched... Did you look into the gear box and dip some oil out. If it's empty or if the gear oil is milky (mix with water), walk away.

That looks to me to be in rough shape. $800 would be the max, if he doesn't take that, I would give him my number and tell him to call if he changes his mind.

 

[Rock Crawler]

What do the blades look like? That can tell you if he hit rocks or if it's been taken care of (somewhat). If they are bent or the cutting edge has not been touched... Did you look into the gear box and dip some oil out. If it's empty or if the gear oil is milky (mix with water), walk away.

That looks to me to be in rough shape. $800 would be the max, if he doesn't take that, I would give him my number and tell him to call if he changes his mind.

He is 2 hours east of me, in Indiana Pa. so all I have is these photos that he sent to me. I am assuming that if I get it for $800, I will immediately buy new blades, new belt, change the gear box oil, wire brush the entire thing and brush it Rustoleum Kubota Orange inside and out so that it is color matched to my new collection of toys... er... I mean tools. So, as long as the gear box is not torched, everything else would be addressed. How much is a new gearbox if that were to end up being junk? If it is only $150 for a gearbox from Woods, even that is not a total deal breaker.

Structurally, the steel appears sound. I see light surface corrosion only, no actual degraded material. Maybe I should have said $650

PS: Teg, I REALLY like your sig line there. There are a couple names on this forum who are some form of TBN internet forum gods. They exist on all forums. I typically want to puke when I see them posting their gospel.

 

[CADplans]

This is the one I got last summer,,, ($500 if I remember correctly :confused3

Maybe I do not know how to hook it up,, or the tires on my JD 4105 are too big,,, but,,,,

I had an interference problem,,

I had to extend the arms on the mower, so as to set the mower further back.
the mower does a great job,,,,, now,,,, :cool2:

I mowed with a Gravely 72" mower for over a decade,,
that mower cut so nice, I was POSITIVE that no mower could cut better,,,

The Woods seems to cut nicer than the Gravely,,,

 

[Rock Crawler]

I only wish I could see the photos :-(
You must be hosting them externally? Our computer system blocks all file sharing sites.