Advice needed on corn field

[LouNY]

I appreciate the feedback. Went out again today and eyeballed the area. I have two areas, one five rows wide with ten feet center pathway, then another five rows wide, then another ten feet to the next rental area, which is a single 8 row wide field.
So a five, a five and an eight.
Thinking of putting the SilverQueen and Peaches 'n Cream in one field, the 8 row one. Then in the field with two five row sections, keeping the yellow corn on one side of that middle pathway, and the white corn on the other.
5 rows of each variety, separated by a space between varieties.

Yes to irrigation; just ran a one inch pipe from house over to garden, backed up by 1.5hp sprinkler pump.
Have elevated sprinklers, figured I'd set them up in the middle pathway between the corn and water that way.

I realize that some of my corn may come out as mutts, but as long as it's good eating mutts...
I have a ton of drip hose but using that elsewhere. If we get a drought, one way or the other this will get watered.

Any separation will help with the cross pollination also the Silver Queen and Peaches and Cream have a 10-12 day maturity difference which will also give them different pollination dates, you can assist the pollination in small fields by gently shaking the stalk when the tassels are heavy with pollen. When the research farms are working on new varieties they will place bags over the tassels and silks and even detassel some plants, when seed corn is grown quite often they used to plant 4 rows of one variety then two rows of another, as the corn in the four row section was growing they would go in with a mower and remove the tassels just leaving the two bull rows to pollinate.
As far as sprouting corn seedlings you should get some nice early corn. Up here some of the commercial growers will lay black plastic down to draw the suns heat into the ground, then plant thru the plastic and lay a clear plastic on top to try and get the "first" locally grown corn.
So enjoy your gardening and corn growing.

 

[buickanddeere]

Could be as simple as the regulator not recovering the proper defence voltage due to an open circuit or a high resistance connection. What is the voltage between the regulator reference terminal and the alternator case ?

 

[Redbug]

Also...I would ask the neighboring farmers what they plan to plant...in what fields. All farmers rotate their crops, (at least down here), and if they are going to put in soybeans or whatever else besides corn, you could plant your corn in your field adjacent to their non-corn planting. Around here, they rotate corn with peanuts, cotton, and soybeans. In the long run, you need to think about rotation, too. If you don't you can get soil depletion, mitigating pests and pathogens.

 

[RalphVa]

Others have covered most of your issues. I'll add a little bit from experience, etc. Corn pollinates by shaking of the top tassels to drop its parts onto the silk of the corn ears. Each silk is connected to a kernel spot on each ear. So, it's fairly easy to get cross pollination via wind if pollination times are close together. I've never done more than 1 corn variety to have this happen. Have done more than 1 squash variety and have had some surprisingly good results of the crosses. It's pollinated by insects though.

I did try starting corn inside vs. seed in the ground. No improvement by starting inside. The seed in the ground makes corn that'll quickly catch up with those started inside.

Glyphosate can spread by either wind or misdirection as via airplanes. It's not quite as volatile as dicamba, which seems to be the thing chemical farmers are doing now with the cancer scare for glyphosate (active ingredient of Roundup). Dicamba seems to not only just spread by wind but by actual volatilization, e.g. it'll become volatile when sprayed and recondense miles away. Dicamba has been used for years by homeowners to kill broad leaf weeds in grass but leave the grass alone (because its leaves aren't very broad to kill it, but the stuff still slightly weakens the grass). Guess what veggies are: broad leaf plants.

I've made raised rows like that using big discs located behind the rear wheels of the tractor. Apparently work the same as use of potato plows.

Ralph

 

[buickanddeere]

Sorry , that replay belonged to another post

 

[daugen]

Sorry , that replay belonged to another post

not a problem, kinda figured that. But welcome...

well against all intelligent advice I planted the first tray of corn yesterday, out in the warm sun, and it was a treat to do. At least the beginning of the rows have something now...rest will be planted next week.

It's very clear I started out on this all wrong. Instead of picking two or three varieties and keeping them totally separated, I bought 8 kinds of seeds putting them in the same mental bucket as tomatoes. Wrong.

If nothing else, I'll report back this summer and let you know which varieties had pollination issues, what grew and what didn't.

What I did learn is you can't keep corn in a seed tray longer than two weeks. The tap root is amazingly long, I'd carefully pull the seedlings out and find a four to six inch long tap root attached with a strong branching root structure. I broke a few, learned to not let them get more than a few inches tall in the tray. Had no desire to repot corn...

Ralph, I've seen youtube videos of folks shaking their corn at just the right time. Going to need to study that technique.

 

[Larry Caldwell]

Pollination affects the next year's crop, not the current crop. Since almost all sweet corn is hybrid, you won't be saving any seed anyway. The real concern is going to be insect transfer from your neighbor's field, since corn on corn builds a population of pests. Worms in an ear of corn don't affect the flavor, but people get put off by having to cut off the end of the ear before they cook it. Here is a list of corn pests. Each one is a hot link to info.

Corn Insect & Disease Guide

It would be worth talking to him about what pests he has trouble with, because you will have trouble with them too. European corn borer, for instance, will attack tomatoes too.

Are you sure your neighbor is planting roundup ready corn? BT corn is more common because of the insect resistance. Corn is a grass, so any broadleaf herbicide will deal with broadleaf weeds. Normally that would be applied while the corn is young, with a boom sprayer. It wouldn't affect your corn, but tomatoes or squash might be at risk.

Thank you for planting vegetables to be spread around. One of the hardest things for food pantries to find is fresh vegetables. Canned foods get donated all the time, but fresh produce is rare. I'm sure your county food bank will take all you can produce. Think of your first few crops as a learning experience. It takes skill to time harvests and pick #1 sweet corn. What you are looking for is full kernels that easily pop and yield a milky, sweet juice when you squeeze the ear. As the ear matures, more of the sugars will convert to starch, and the kernel will get harder. By the time it gets to #3 stage, it's still edible, but it's pretty chewy and not as sweet.

 

[WVH1977]

European Corn Borer and Japanese Beetles are going to be the BIGGEST issue for you starting in May/June timeframe. Last year I started mixing Tiger10 and Neem Oil and spraying on each corn plant. It takes a little bit of time but will greatly help your crop. I always plant my corn two weeks apart so I am getting the corn at different times. Also, I use Calcium Nitrate once the corn gets a foot tall and then again when it starts to tassel. It really helps the corn out. Just side dress each row. Good luck with your crop.

 

[WVH1977]

One more thing, while I am thinking about it. Crows can decimate that corn like others have talked about. I have two of them moving owl heads I put out. I move them every couple of days. That has helped me to keep them from eating the seed. I hate CROWS!!!!

 

[daugen]

I go through lots of Neem oil on other things, have separate fruit and nut orchards also. I need to learn more about what to spray on these crops now that things are growing. I see chomp marks on my little cabbages already. I always try to find a less toxic alternative but this is bugland and I have to spray my fruit trees six or seven times a year. Have a 50 gal. gas powered sprayer that pulls behind a garden tractor nicely.
Would "vegetable" spray work on corn?

yeah, I really am bumbling around here. I've read the local Master Gardener guide and need to read it again to see what they recommend for
vegetable sprays. Until then I use the TSC stuff. Specifics to follow; I need to learn the chemistry here.

 

[daugen]

One more thing, while I am thinking about it. Crows can decimate that corn like others have talked about. I have two of them moving owl heads I put out. I move them every couple of days. That has helped me to keep them from eating the seed. I hate CROWS!!!!

Crows...well, I've never seen a crow here, but I guess if I put out a big enough smorgasbord
for them they will soon visit. Never thought of birds. Gulls I've seen...big starling like birds, but not crows.
Who cares if they are dining on my corn.
Motion activated sprinklers probably wouldn't trip on a bird.
birds of prey a good idea

 

[daugen]

Larry, I have six varieties of Baker Creek non GMO heritage corn seeds, plus the two store bought Silver Queen, etc.
They are at least separated by the center twelve foot pathway through the corn field. I wanted to be able to drive through the cornfield...
and now, that separation does double duty.

Am headed to your link now.
I am trying to find out what the local farmer is planting, and will tell him what I have.
He may be more worried about me than vice versa...

 

[WVH1977]

Two more critters to think about are raccoons and squirrels. They will eat all of your corn. A couple of years ago I had to really go after the squirrels. They were pulling stalks and all up into the trees. I started noticing corn cobs and stalks on the ground around my trees. It was a free-for-all for two weeks taming that population.

 

[daugen]

Please check local accepted practices and label instructions when growing either sweet corn, seed corn or another specialty crop

This is the best Dupont has to say? ??? that was for earworm. I'll check out cutworm.

The "locals" would use straight DDT if they were allowed to.....
I suppose accepted by County Agent might be more accurate.

 

[daugen]

Two more critters to think about are raccoons and squirrels. They will eat all of your corn. A couple of years ago I had to really go after the squirrels. They were pulling stalks and all up into the trees. I started noticing corn cobs and stalks on the ground around my trees. It was a free-for-all for two weeks taming that population.

I don't have a good angle on them, but my neighbor does and he collects guns...he must have a .22.
I do, a nice one with a scope. Hollowpoint to the head works nicely.
I have a lot of squirrels here, this isn't good.

 

[WVH1977]

Crows...well, I've never seen a crow here, but I guess if I put out a big enough smorgasbord
for them they will soon visit. Never thought of birds. Gulls I've seen...big starling like birds, but not crows.
Who cares if they are dining on my corn.
Motion activated sprinklers probably wouldn't trip on a bird.
birds of prey a good idea

Once you start noticing your corn not growing and wondering why, look for the crows. They will go down each row and pull the seed and the tiny plant once it pops out. I asked my neighbor (long time farmer) how to handle that situation. He told me plant enough for the crows and yourself. LOL

 

[DrRod]

Its the raccoons that are most maddening. They will take one bite out of an ear and then move on to the next. Wouldn't mind sharing a bit of it but they will ruin a whole field in a night.

The best defense against birds and beasts is the right sort of dog. I have tree farmer friends who put a nice dog house out in a field and kept a couple of outside dogs in it. They ringed part of the field with an invisible fence -- didn't need to do it all because even fifty yards is close enough to scare a deer, raccoon, or crow. The dogs seem happy with the situation and actually stay outside of their house most of the time -- even in snow.

 

[JamesHW]

Had an idea for a modern scarecrow using those dancing wavy arm guys you see infront of stores (think they call them air dancers). They cost a few hundred dollars, but making one and constructing the fan assembly doesn’t seem like that difficult.

 

[Larry Caldwell]

I go through lots of Neem oil on other things, have separate fruit and nut orchards also. I need to learn more about what to spray on these crops now that things are growing. I see chomp marks on my little cabbages already. I always try to find a less toxic alternative but this is bugland and I have to spray my fruit trees six or seven times a year. Have a 50 gal. gas powered sprayer that pulls behind a garden tractor nicely.
Would "vegetable" spray work on corn?

yeah, I really am bumbling around here. I've read the local Master Gardener guide and need to read it again to see what they recommend for
vegetable sprays. Until then I use the TSC stuff. Specifics to follow; I need to learn the chemistry here.

There should be a small booklet in a packet on the side of any insecticide jug. You need to study up enough to understand it. It will specify application rates, techniques and withdrawal times. Corn is pretty easy, because the ear is completely enclosed in a thick husk. The moth and flies are laying eggs weeks before the crop matures, so the ear mostly does not even exist when you are applying the insecticide. Pesticide residues are not a problem, if the chemical is applied as directed on the label. If your state has an extension service, you might be able to pick up good info there. It's also a great idea to get an agricultural pesticide applicator license. Your local community college might have a class for that, or your extension service can direct you to educational resources.

 

[fried1765]

First, I have never heard of anybody transplanting corn after it comes up. Why in the world are you doing that? Get you one of those cheap walk behind planters and put the seed in the ground.

Corn types will cross pollinate. You can read on the seed company's websites and each variety will have a maturation time and instructions as to how far it must be from other types. I solved this problem when I had five or six different varieties in one garden by planting the quickest maturing first, Early Sunglow at 59 days. Then the next shortest maturing time type a week later and so on until the last which was a 129 day type. I may have the times wrong because I am doing this from memory. Anyway I don't think I ever had cross pollination problems. BUT if at all possible do not plant different types close to each other. And corn is wind pollinated. I have always been told and read that you need a minimum or eight rows for successful pollination. If fewer than that keep the plot as close to square as possible.

Corn does not like a hardpan where the ground has been broke repeatedly at the same depth. One of the most successful row cropping corn farmers I ever knew stayed with a six row planter long after everybody else in the area had gone to twelve or more rows. He had the planter rows lined up behind the teeth of a huge ripper and pulled it behind a large four wheel drive tractor. I remember a neighbor borrowing the ripper and his 130-hp 1466 International would not pull it. The point is to tear that hardpan up.

After our last large garden we have stopped growing corn because it is easier to buy it at the local trade day. And the last time with all the different varieties coming in every two weeks it seemed like all we did that summer was pull corn.

And my wife forbid me to buy any other seed except Honey Select Triple Sweet. It was the favorite of everybody who tried it.

Riddle: How do you know when your sweet corn is ready to be pulled?

Answer: When you go to your garden one morning and the coons have ate most of it.

RSKY

Damm coons!
Truer words were NEVER spoken!