LandPride rotary cutters / bush hogs

[Bigfoot62]

. . . and I don't think I want a real light duty cutter . . .

You said it in the original post. You really don't want a light duty cutter unless the only thing you'll be cutting is grass. (and there are better implements for mowing grass)
I bought a "medium" duty 7' Rhino several years ago, and had to replace the tail wheel assembly, including the yoke, after the first summer. The yoke folded up. I called the dealer and he contacted Rhino. They said that was "abuse" and refused to cover it under warranty. Said I was using it on too large of a tractor. (100hp) Really? I wonder what HP tractor they thought I should put a 7' cutter on? I replaced it with a much bigger tail wheel assembly that was designed for a HD cutter. The sides of the cutter have also bent, probably where I've run into stumps or tree roots. I will NEVER buy another light, or even medium duty, cutter again.

My point is this: MOST manufacturers make a good HD cutter, and MOST also make light duty grass mowers. You get what you pay for.

Now, if you really want a heavy duty cutter, here's a link to the one that most utility company Right-Of-Way crews use: Brown Manufacturing You probably don't want to pay nearly $7k for a cutter, but I bet you couldn't tear it up if you tried.

 

[Luke'sScreenName]

IMHO Woods makes great products and then puts the crappyiest paint in existence on them. :confused3:

It fades and then falls off in short order.

 

[Turbys_1700]

One note on Brown cutters. The factory will sell you anything you need if dealer support is not close. Ive had mine 3 years now and cut some rough stuff. I reclaimed pasture that was left alone. I actually cut some 3" pines with no issues. Brown rates the 472 for 2" material. They are purposely underrated. The equivalent Bush Hog is rated for 3" material and Brown's 120 HP gearbox is equivalent to some others rated over 200. The difference is noticable if you compare them side by side.

 

[PSDStu]

I own a Brown 416 with 7 ga (3/16") thick deck, 1/4" rear wall and sides and 130 hp gearbox. Luckily my Kubota dealer is also a Brown dealer. They are manufactured just up the road in Ozark, AL and as Turbys has stated they will ship anywhere. Cannot state enough how well built and supported these cutters are.

Brown Manufacturing | 8.633.899 |

 

[coolbrze]

Great info thanks everyone! I'm pretty sure for my application I'll be good w/ the smooth top med-duty LP cutter that was recommended. Getting excited to say the least!

 

[TripleR]

Only recommendation coolbreze, get chain guards, great for debris control prevents clumping like rubber guard, at least that's been my experience. Our front guard on a Woods got torn off and threw out a chunk of metal that punctured our right rear tire.

As mentioned I've owned all brands mentioned, but as several have pointed out designs change and there is a lot of differences between models. I'm happy with what I have, but if this was available years ago, one may well be in my barn. Woods Equipment BrushBull™ BB72X Single-spindle Rotary Cutter - YouTube

 

[SDT]

Only recommendation coolbreze, get chain guards, great for debris control prevents clumping like rubber guard, at least that's been my experience. Our front guard on a Woods got torn off and threw out a chunk of metal that punctured our right rear tire.

As mentioned I've owned all brands mentioned, but as several have pointed out designs change and there is a lot of differences between models. I'm happy with what I have, but if this was available years ago, one may well be in my barn. Woods Equipment BrushBull™ BB72X Single-spindle Rotary Cutter - YouTube

I've used both chain and belting guards.

Experience has taught me that chains are best for the rear but belting is best for the front as chains on the front allow too much fine debris to be thrown onto the back of the tractor. Though some may not mind this, I use only ROPS tractors due to my need to drive near and beneath trees. As a result, I do not like debris being thrown onto the back of the tractor and me.

I usually replace the front rubber belting every 4 or 5 years.

SDT

 

[TripleR]

I've used both chain and belting guards.

Experience has taught me that chains are best for the rear but belting is best for the front as chains on the front allow too much find debris to be thrown onto the back of the tractor. Though some may not mind this, I use only ROPS tractors due to my need to drive near and beneath trees. As a result, I do not like debris being thrown onto the back of the tractor and me.

I usually replace the front rubber belting every 4 or 5 years.

SDT

I was one of four sons and dad figured he could get by without one of us, so we grew up using cutters with no guards anywhere, so chains seemed like a great deal. I can only drive cab tractors now, so I guess I'm unaware of fine stuff coming out, but see where it could be an issue.

 

[SDT]

Only recommendation coolbreze, get chain guards, great for debris control prevents clumping like rubber guard, at least that's been my experience. Our front guard on a Woods got torn off and threw out a chunk of metal that punctured our right rear tire.

As mentioned I've owned all brands mentioned, but as several have pointed out designs change and there is a lot of differences between models. I'm happy with what I have, but if this was available years ago, one may well be in my barn. Woods Equipment BrushBull™ BB72X Single-spindle Rotary Cutter - YouTube

I have a Woods BB720X bought new in 2008 and a Woods BB840X bought new in 2014. Both have F & R chains but I've replaced the front chains with belting to keep debris off of the back of my tractors and myself.

Both are good HD cutters and have performed well. Both are heavy. Both have good grass clearance and clear well. The tail wheels and supporting structures are robust. The gearboxes have been trouble free.

My only real objection is the design of the rear chain brackets. The L the brackets are susceptible to damage when backing into things because they extend beyond the deck bumper. Moreover, the brackets are not continuously welded. The brackets are easily bent and the non continuous welds can be broken if one backs into trees, etc. I've had mine off a time or two to straighten damage and have continuously welded the brackets on both mowers.

SDT

 

[TripleR]

I have a Woods BB720X bought new in 2008 and a Woods BB840X bought new in 2014. Both have F & R chains but I've replaced the front chains with belting to keep debris off of the back of my tractors and myself.

Both are good HD cutters and have performed well. Both are heavy. Both have good grass clearance and clear well. The tail wheels and supporting structures are robust. The gearboxes have been trouble free.

My only real objection is the design of the rear chain brackets. The L the brackets are susceptible to damage when backing into things because they extend beyond the deck bumper. Moreover, the brackets are not continuously welded. The brackets are easily bent and the non continuous welds can be broken if one backs into trees, etc. I've had mine off a time or two to straighten damage and have continuously welded the brackets on both mowers.

SDT

I had to look those up and the rear chain guard holder is similar to my LP only less exposed to damage, I too have had to reshape them. I thought about adding reinforcement, but I'd rather have that bend than something on my deck. At my age, my equipment will outlast me, but I like to look.