Thinning forest

[LMychajluk]

I'm taking delivery of a Kioti CK3510se TLB next week, along with a 55" Wicked Root Grapple, Piranha Bar, and a Wallenstein Chipper/Shredder. One of the projects on my to-do list is to thin out the forest surrounding my family's place. Total forest area of about 3-4 acres, maybe up to 6-7 depending on how industrious I get. Basically want to get rid of a lot of the young growth (2-3" trees), etc..., but not trying to clear everything. Trying to figure out the best way to go about it. No big rush... will work on this over the summer when I can. I also have a Stihl MS290 chainsaw, and an FS90 string trimmer.

I was originally thinking I would use the Grapple to do most of the work, but then got to thinking that it may be pretty rough on the ground. I don't need to keep it 'perfect', but I'd like to be able to walk though the trees w/o breaking an ankle in a hole. If I pulled the saplings, I'd have to go back and do a little leveling with a blade and also have to do something w/ the root balls (yeah, I know - "burn it"..... Not my first option for a couple of reasons, and neither is burying them). Ideally, I would just cut the young trees flush and just leave the roots to rot in the ground, and just chip what I cut (no big deal if it starts to come back a bit). But, I want to cut the trees low enough to not have a tripping or tire hazard from the stumps. Maybe the Piranha Bar would cut them close enough (though I don't think I could cut anything more than an inch or two thick at most)? Another thought was to put a blade on the Stihl FS90 and use that to cut the trees close to the ground, but I don't know how close I'd be able to get, or if it'll be powerful enough? And just the thought of trying to make all the cuts I would need to at ground level with the MS290 is making my back hurt, not to mention all the new chains I'll probably need. If I go this route, I have the option of a battery operated sawzall instead of the chain saw.

I wasn't planning on getting a brush hog, but I would be willing to rent one if that's the best tool for the job, and if it'll cut low enough. My thinking was that it would still leave ~2" stumps, which sounds exactly like what I don't want. I would like to eventually get a flail mower, but I don't think that's the tool for this job.

So, what do you think my strategy should be? And what's the best tool to get a low-to-the-ground cut on a large number of small trees?

 

[/pine]

So, what do you think my strategy should be? And what's the best tool to get a low-to-the-ground cut on a large number of small trees?

Remove them in entirety...push or pull them out without any cutting...

 

[747driver]

I have much success taking out small trees up to 2 inches, roots and all with the Piranha bar I have attached. Easier if the ground is not dry. Its best to not leave the stumps if possible. Use your backhoe to get the bigger ones out. I use my Woodmaxx 8H to chip up the trees and then put them down on the trails we have in the forest.

 

[oosik]

I thin my Ponderosa pine stands and cut, drag, pile and chip 750 to 900 small( 6" and less ) every spring. I cut the pines and leave 4" to 6" stump - in my area this stump will be totally rotten in a year.

My situation - a stand is an oval about 50 feet by 100 feet with 75 to 120 small pines. Thick as the hair on a dogs back. My tractor and grapple are completely useless for my thinning project except as the power supply for my chipper.

I will go thru a stand of 120 small pines and leave 10 to 12 standing. The felled trees will be drug out, piled, then chipped.

 

[Jstpssng]

Husqvarna Forestry Clearing Saws 555FX

 

[oosik]

I have a unit just like that - Stihl F350. Works well on little trees up to about 2". Beyond that - it becomes a problem. I've tried mine a couple times and have gone back to my small Stihl with its 14" bar. Too much farking around with the F350.

 

[dougtrr2]

I would contact the state forester to see if they could give you some guidance on the best way to proceed. Probably won't recommend specific removal process but should let you know which trees to keep and which ones to get rid of. I have a small (less than 10acres) forest. I was able to put it in forest preserve which saves on taxes. But one benefit was contacting the state forester to due an evaluation of my forest. We walked the lot and she put together a comprehensive plan for improving my stand. It was all free.

Doug in SW IA

 

[LMychajluk]

Interesting... The forested areas around the house aren't very large. There's the road across the frontage of the property w/ the house set about 250yds back, a set of powerlines behind about a 50yd width of trees behind the house, and maybe another 100yds of forest on either side of the cleared areas before the property borders. BUT, we do have about 35 acres total, about 1/2 of which is behind the powerlines and mostly forested, on a steep hillside, and most likely will never be developed. If we can save on Property (and especially school!) taxes on that, that would be great. I'll look into that! Thanks!

Edit - A quick Google landed me on this:

Any tract of forest land is eligible if it consists of at least 50 contiguous acres, exclusive of any portion not devoted to the production of forest crops. lands divided by state, county or town roads, energy transmission corridors and similar facilities, but not limited-access highways, are considered contiguous for purposes of this act.

48-a Forest Tax Law - NYS Dept. of Environmental Conservation

Since we're under 50 acres (even if we were to buy the empty lot on one side), the power lines still cut through the property, so I don't know if we'd be eligible for those tax breaks. But, I may reach out to the local DEP Forrester none the less.

 

[EddieWalker]

I've never tried with a smaller TLB, so I can only comment on what I do with my full sized 555E TLB. I back up to the area that I want to clear and then I push over the tree with the hoe bucket, slide the bucket down the tree and to the side so the tree bends into the shape of the letter J. Then I pull the tree out of the ground with all the roots attached by pulling the bucket back towards me. Once out of the ground, I slide them off to the side and then do the next, over and over again. In a very short amount of time, I have a huge pile to clean up that takes a lot longer then getting them out of the ground.

 

[LMychajluk]

... I have a huge pile to clean up that takes a lot longer then getting them out of the ground.

That's what I'm worried about. See my comment about burning / burrying in my OP.