3-Point Hitch Bent, broken telescoping anti sway arms on Mahindra.

[Sergei]

That’s what I’m saying about that plate- I think the plate is good. The stud just side loads it. I’d just grind the stud off and drill even a 3/8” hole through it and put one of these on there-

Connecting Links - Grainger Industrial Supply

Either the double clevis or a quick link.

Or if you insist on using the factory stabilizer just put a grade 8 bolt through it.

Why not take the plates off and have a shop rewelded and also reinforce the stud area. Might be better than a new one.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

They just replaced the bar and I had them only drill 3 holes as that's all I use .View attachment 556160View attachment 556161View attachment 556162

Great thinking. Unneeded holes are just missing metal when the metal is much needed.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

Interesting. I have yet to test out our 'log chain' solution on the 3600 that came with no functioning stabilizer system. Chain can move a great deal without bending or breaking.

I tested it hard with the Bush Hog 84" twin spindle (700+ pounds) and all went well. I used the adjustment idea mentioned by twisting the chain. I used the cheapest 3/8" TSC chain and National Hardware 315BC 1/2 Quick Link, Zinc at Tractor Supply Co.

View attachment 3600 left stablizer.jpg

 

[RNeumann]

It’s easy enough to weld the stabilizer and or make new ones- heck it’d be an ok project. But with all the failures I’m thinking a different approach is needed. My “fix” was about a 10’ job on a Saturday when my options for parts was limited- and I was mid dirt project.

My biggest concern is I often use the box to “push” or cut with the tractor going backwards. This is adding to the stress on the stabilizer.

The chain seems like it was made for that type of load but it is only using one side at a time- the tension side only. the compression side obviously doesn’t see a load when using a chain. With that maybe something rigid is the way to go. However, it would seem the grade of steel would need to be something that can flex and move instead of just breaking like so many have. And just replacing it with some mild steel bar stock seems like a long shot to success.

Who knows!?!?

 

[Gale Hawkins]

Ridgid can work as long as the bush hog, box blade, etc can move 2" to the right or left I have found personal.

 

[TnAndy]

Yanmar was using the same crappy pot metal anti-sway bars when I bought my 2011 LX410. I bent several sets of them, replaced under warranty. My guess is they won't hold up to backing up a bush hog, because that is when I seemed to bend mine. NEVER had that problem with my previous NH tractor that used the same design, so my guess is the quality of the metal is junk. Yanmar probably got them from the same subcontractor/supplier as your tractor.

I finally got them to send me a different type (see link to thread below), and while not as quick to adjust (you have to turn them), I haven't bent one since.

http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/yanmar-new/333147-some-things-about-new-yanmars.html

 

[Navasot]

are yall backing up with the 3point equipment?

 

[Navasot]

3point equipment shouldn't be used in reverse... even if you fix the linkage issue then your just going to start putting the pressure on the mounts.. don't matter what tractor

 

[RNeumann]

A lot of my box scraper work is done in reverse. I appreciate the advice.....they build the box with the blade on the back for a reason. Same with 3 point mounted snow blowers. I’m sure their are others.

Using the term “never” doesn’t leave much wiggle room.

 

[Navasot]

A lot of my box scraper work is done in reverse. I appreciate the advice.....they build the box with the blade on the back for a reason. Same with 3 point mounted snow blowers. I知 sure their are others.

Using the term 渡ever doesn稚 leave much wiggle room.

And exactly the way it was intended... blade on the back is to smooth then swap when the cutting blade is wore.. loose material it wont matter but actually trying to break ground is asking for trouble.. not even in the here and now popping these bars is just nickel and dime talk... 5-10years of that and you have all that strain start showing on the rear axle/seals.. that mitsu frame has the best rear end in the compact line though so it will help.

 

[Acethe3rd]

Got it done and they work great!

 

[Acethe3rd]

Got some good metal, lined up the holes, welded and filed. Worked great and I bush hogged today without a problem. I see a lot of great replies. Thank you.

 

[Acethe3rd]

I wished I had of seen that earlier. Lol But mine work. Thanks for the great ideas. If these fail then I can always use your suggestions. Thanks again.

 

[Acethe3rd]

Got em done! I am trying not to compress anything. Got bush hogging done today and they worked great! I think this design is terrible. Any bit of pressure on them and they bend. After a few times of bending, then you are walking the pasture looking for the part.

 

[Acethe3rd]

If there is another fail of which after today I am hoping doesn稚 happen, I think I am going with chains and a turnbuckle. These look good.

 

[Acethe3rd]

The material is junk.

 

[Acethe3rd]

Agreed.

 

[Gale Hawkins]

3point equipment shouldn't be used in reverse... even if you fix the linkage issue then your just going to start putting the pressure on the mounts.. don't matter what tractor

Are you new to tractor usage especially with 3PH implements?

 

[sspenst]

I had the same problem on my 3016, broke 3 times..... so i finally just made a custom new adjustible set. I unbolted the factory plate on the axle side and cut of the 7/8" existing pins and welded some longer 7/8" pins back on to accept a weld on lower link ball end. then i got some 1" solid square steel stock and some box tubing drilled some holes in it and voila adjustible links. ill take some pictures asap! also welded new supports on the square end on the lower link bars to accept the wider box tubing... threw the factory stabilizers out!!!!

 

[sspenst]

here is some pictures of my new stabilizer links i built, they work great, have my 5' landpride mower hooked up atm.

i drilled the 2 holes on the square tubing slighty different so u get a little bit of wiggle room for hooking up implements kinda similar to the origional ones......