Am I going to hate a 3 point wheel rake?

   / Am I going to hate a 3 point wheel rake? #1  

StuartDK45SE

Silver Member
Joined
Dec 28, 2014
Messages
210
Location
Angleton, Texas
Tractor
Kioti DK45SE
Going to drive up to Small Farm Innovations this weekend to pick up one of their drum mowers they sell. They also have a 4 wheel, 3 point rake that I am looking at. I only have 10 acres I am haying and I've been looking at tractor house and craigslist, but haven't really found anything other than some side delivery rakes. One of those would be okay, but I wouldn't be able to fit it in my barn, whereas I could the 3 point rake. Everything else I can fit inside, including the baler I already have. It looks like the 3 point rake can be setup in a couple of different configurations to "perform" a few tasks. My ground is flat, grass is jigs. As long as it does a good job of not leaving a lot of grass behind, I would be okay.
 
   / Am I going to hate a 3 point wheel rake? #2  
I love mine.
The only problem comes when the hay crop is too heavy.
Otherwise it is the most trouble free, simple machine you will ever own.
Make sure to buy a dozen extra teeth. Hang them in plain sight where you won't forget.
You will go for years without breaking a tooth and then ,like this year 2 were broke when all was done.
I bought mine at a farm auction for $125.00
Turned out to be a great deal.
There are utube videos that you should watch.
 
   / Am I going to hate a 3 point wheel rake? #3  
We have been selling them for over 20 years with no issues. Most have 3 settings for the rake angle for normal,moderate and heavy hay. The steeper the angle, the more aggressive they are. Ken Sweet
 
   / Am I going to hate a 3 point wheel rake? #4  
I bought one probably 10 years ago. Used it 3 times, last time was yesterday. Proper setup is paramount to my satisfaction....aka rakes hay in a reasonable manner. Some instructions with the sale would help.

Other problems with it are thick, heavy crops (sorghum sudan 6' tall), tines bend back, and wind blowing light crops (coastal bermuda) up against the wheel and sticking to it when raking into the wind. It's a fast groundspeed rake. If you field is rough, hang on. It rakes roughly a 6' swath or less depending on angle setup.

Hooking to the tractor is almost impossible for a one person operation. That stand is useless as it usually sinks into the ground over a season and being one sided, getting the opposite pin into the lift arm ball socket is impossible without a farm jack! It's on my tractor now and when I take it off, I am going to tie it up to something rigid so that the 3 pt interface is somewhat near the 3 pt interface on the tractor. I looked at the UTube videos and were of little help. One thing for sure, before removal, lock it crosswise to the tractor, not at the angle where you were raking.

One thing I like about it, as compared to my JD 500 series parallel bar rake is that you can lift it and put it down when hopping over windrows. A second thing is when raking thin, short stem-leaf crops, you have more fingers to move the hay. A third thing was I broadcast some grass seed before I raked and baled yesterday and it's perfect for tossing a little dirt over broadcast seed while you rake. Saves a trip. But my parallel bar rake easily combines 2 wws in one trip whereas the wheel is too narrow (4 wheels).
 
   / Am I going to hate a 3 point wheel rake? #5  
I used to rake about 80 acres of brome and alfalfa when I was a kid on the farm. We had a 10' pull type IH side deliver rake and it worked very well in some very thick hay. These days I help a buddy out for a tiny bit of haying (250 bales this year! :D) and he has a 10' 311 Cockshutt SD rake which I get the job of using and it works very well also. Being a pull type it's very easy to hook up which isn't a small consideration.

I've never used a wheel rake so I can't make any comments about them but I did find this site which talks about them. three point wheel rake? how well do they work? - Machinery - HayTalk - Hay & Forage Community
 
   / Am I going to hate a 3 point wheel rake?
  • Thread Starter
#6  
Got the rake home and assembled. I am building a couple of stands that I think will make hooking it back up a lot easier. I'll post a picture of those later today. Fields are getting cut today, so I'll have a chance to play with the rake soon.
 
   / Am I going to hate a 3 point wheel rake?
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Hay got cut this morning. I got the new rake out and put it in the "spread" configuration. I'm pleased with how it did that. This thing has a learning curve for sure. Still trying to figure out how much pressure to put one the wheels, angle of attack etc.
 

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   / Am I going to hate a 3 point wheel rake? #8  
I think you'll be happy with it for what you're doing, I have about the same acreage in hay and I have a five wheel 3 point rake find it useful. I also have the SFI drum mower and have been pretty happy with it.

My favorite thing is that it can be taken apart into pieces that I can lift by myself and will hang on a wall. I have a row of nails on the wall in my barn where it hangs the 360 or so days a year I'm not raking hay.

I find it very good for not leaving grass behind. However, since it's on the 3-point it hangs way out behind the tractor, and moving the front of the tractor by an inch moves the rake by a foot. That makes it hard to rake straight lines when it's time to windrow for baling. When the lines aren't straight it can be hard to pick up the whole windrow with the baler. It also leaves the bales in the field in a crooked line, and when I go to bale the next row I sometimes have to dodge the bales lying on the ground. I find it saves time in the long run to windrow at a slightly slower speed and keep the rows straight.

I really like the spreading feature, I open it up all the way and drive fast and can "fluff" a field in a few minutes. I do find that if I do it multiple times the hay starts getting tangled into lumps. A little bit of tangling is good, when the hay is slightly "roped" in a good straight windrow the baler picks it up quite smoothly, it's like pouring syrup in reverse.

When windrowing you want to avoid catching a windrow you've already made, you'll leave a big lump. If your rake is set up on your right you want to keep windrows that you've made on your left, driving on raked grass and with the rake in hay that hasn't seen the rake. That means starting in the middle and driving in a counter-clockwise widening spiral. My baler works better in straight lines so I don't do circles, more like ovals.

When the grass is heavy I find my 24T baler tends to jam if I rake a windrow from more than about 6' of field, so I set the rake at its narrowest setting (steepest angle).

Since it's ground-driven it tends to accumulate hay at the ends of rows. That isn't a huge problem, but it means that bales tend to accumulate at the ends of rows, where they're often in the way.

You'll need to lift the rake to back up or to go over a windrow. I wish my rake were better balanced, when I lift it there is always one wheel that touches the ground.

Always put it on something when you take it off the tractor. The stand that came with it is useless and broke off quickly. I welded it back on and it broke again. I usually grab some stones or firewood to hold it.

In summary, it gets the job done and is good value for the money. A more sophisticated rake is going to be easier to use but quite a bit more expensive. There is some learning curve.
 
   / Am I going to hate a 3 point wheel rake?
  • Thread Starter
#9  
quicksandfarmer. I do have one question for you. What are the effects of different top link adjustments? What happens when the top link is long vs short. I've been running it with the rake post pretty much vertical.

In my very limited playing with it yesterday in both modes, you are 100 percent correct on all points !! Yes, I learned that if you mess with a previous windrow , it won't end well lol. Great tip about starting in the middle of a field and working your way out. I'm finding I like it set at the steepest angle. Although it reduces the coverage width it seems the wheels roll easier. I do find that if I just ease the 3 point down, the leading wheels with touch first because of the off center weight so I have been dropping my 3 point some distance to where all the wheels contact then I ease my 3 point up until I am where I want to be.
 
   / Am I going to hate a 3 point wheel rake? #10  
with 3 point rake you want the wheels to just touch the ground , tilt the top link in or out to get them all touching at the same time .when you lower it. I have also seen folks not pull the pin to allow the springs on arms to float . this is very helpful if you have uneven terrain . The angle should be what your comfortable with and how wide you want your windrow. I ran a 3 point 8 wheel for years and now have an 8 wheel with a caddy. there are times when I chain one side up and just use the other to roll a windrow over .
 

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