Loader Deere 3038e D160 FEL
- Thread starter hagdave
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That's a loaded question... best is to first test/check what the pressure is now. There has been threads that either dealers or the manufacturer sets the PSI on the low side (for "safety" reasons or other reasons).
I have my kubota's PSI cranked up and I'm taking a chance (for me, it's worth it for what I can pickup). The engineers (hopefully) design a certain (??) safety factor into all products. Your guess is as good as mine as to how much they add.
I don't know how to increase the psi on a Deere... sorry. :2cents:
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Turbys_1700
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I looked online and could not find the factory specs for your hydraulic system. Your loader is rated to pick up 1186# at the pins at full height. Figure around 70% that at bucket edge and you are around 830# less the weight of the bucket or forks. There are some threads here about checking your hydraulic pressure via a gauge. You need to do that and then find out what the capacity of the hydraulic system is. Typically the factory sets the hydraulic pressure lower than the relief valve from 5 to 10 percent. I would guesstimate that your pressure maxes around 2500 psi.
beenthere
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hagdave
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The 3038e is a lighter weight tractor than your older Yanmar 2500, so likely the lift capacity is less. But get some hyd. pressure checks to see that it is up to the 2500 psi specs.
:welcome: to TBN
The 3038e is a lighter weight tractor than your older Yanmar 2500, so likely the lift capacity is less. But get some hyd. pressure checks to see that it is up to the 2500 psi specs.
As already stated, be sure pressure is up to spec now. If it is already to spec, I would limit raising no more than 10% so that would be a max of 2750. Just remember that the stability of the tractor will be changed by the extra lift capacity. You will need to add extra rear ballast to counteract it. I would try adjusting pressure in 50 psi increments to see the minimum you can get by with. Extra pressure will put extra strain on pump, oil lines, tractor drive train, etc.
How much ballast do you have now? Be sure you have at least the minimum required in the operators manual. If you have no fluid in tires or wheel weights, you need a minimum of 816lbs on the hitch. With fluid and weights, you still need minimum of 375 lbs on hitch. These numbers reflect loader lift capacity with pressure at spec. Figure 10% more for ballast it pressure is adjusted higher. The picture shows the adjusting screw.
How much ballast do you have now? Be sure you have at least the minimum required in the operators manual. If you have no fluid in tires or wheel weights, you need a minimum of 816lbs on the hitch. With fluid and weights, you still need minimum of 375 lbs on hitch. These numbers reflect loader lift capacity with pressure at spec. Figure 10% more for ballast it pressure is adjusted higher. The picture shows the adjusting screw.
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Thank you so much for the information. I turned it up I'd guess mate 1/4 turn, I have no way to check pressure, but it worked I lifted the pallet of wood I couldn't before. I'll have my buddy put a gauge on it this week. What would you suggest pressure wise? Again thanks
kennyd
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Invest in a gauge my freind, either build one yourself or we sell one ready to use. Here is how to do the pressure test:
Edit: And don't forget about the ballast as JD110 mentioned!
I would agree with this as the MAX but try and keep it as low as you can.
Giuseppe0202
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How did you do this I知 trying to do this where is the valve located
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