Container Weld Shop build -

hawkeye08 · Sep 6, 2018

I might have to look into building one or more of those.. I want to dry my air at compressor (in pump house with copper airline running to shop) and then have a large (old water pressure tank that the bladder failed on) inside the shop. Plan is to have some air on hand even if I don't turn on compressor.

BukitCase · Sep 6, 2018

Wherever you locate one of these, it will ONLY work as long as it's a handy enough location that you'll SEE it every time you use air - (remember, it's a WATER trap, and will fill up) - if it's obvious it'll help you remember to drain it OFTEN.

IF that's not practical, it'd make sense to add a solenoid dump valve on a timer; something like 15-20 seconds twice a day, depending on how often you use your compressor. Otherwise, it's just a good place to store water so you can "wash" your air tools every so often

...Steve

dragoneggs · Sep 6, 2018

BukitCase said:
Wherever you locate one of these, it will ONLY work as long as it's a handy enough location that you'll SEE it every time you use air - (remember, it's a WATER trap, and will fill up) - if it's obvious it'll help you remember to drain it OFTEN.

IF that's not practical, it'd make sense to add a solenoid dump valve on a timer; something like 15-20 seconds twice a day, depending on how often you use your compressor. Otherwise, it's just a good place to store water so you can "wash" your air tools every so often ...Steve

I guess I should go drain my compressor. Maybe I should start a thread a la 'Your last generator maintenance run' to remind us all to regularly drain your compressor, refresh your desiccant, etc.? :laughing:

Oldpath05 · Sep 9, 2018

dragoneggs said:
Just don't use PVC... other air line plastic pipe is okay but why not black or galvanized pipe. I know I will be going that route as I extend my air lines beyond just using the rubber flex hoses currently snaking all over the floor. Just isn't compatible with all my tools mounted on casters! :smiley_aafz:

Now I'm back up and running with a new HP laptop, the screen is a lot clearer, sweet, just the buttons have move a little, muscle memory has to be reprogrammed, just like PC updates that could take a while.

Now for some catchup with a lot of mustard............ Last weeks air leak fix is fixed-ish, air is not leaking by the air filter and seems to be doing it's job, you can see water flowing into the bowl. Think about doing a quick strength test on this PVC rated for 600 psi, I'll take a sledge hammer to it and see if it breaks, safty glasses just in case there's flying sparks.

Guess it's time to start the planning process of new air line run, from where the compressor is to the last air outlet I'll need about 60', boy didn't that add up fast, then the elbows and T's probably that's where the cost will jump, thinking around 6 L's and 2-3 T's, then a few reduces to go from 1/2" to 3/8", then the misalliances, there's always some of that. But now the real costly part and that is in what kind of pipe. I did some looking around this evening for air line suggestions, the pro and cons, and this page told it short and simple even a caveman can understand it..................Black ion and galvanize is what I also thought would be good but this page didn't seem to like it, they seem to aluminum, wonder how pricey that is...............
What Type of Pipe Should I Use for My Air Compressor?

Oldpath05 · Sep 9, 2018

BukitCase said:
The previous link on "franzinator" has some good info, but could possibly be a little clearer - I tried to re-do some of the pics and add some comments last night, but my internet was down all day til several hours after bedtime; it's back up now, so here goes...

One of the confusions was ORIENTATION in the pics - I've changed them so ALL are shown as they should be when the unit is FINISHED and MOUNTED - in other words, everything in the edited pics is "right side up" - some of the PINK lettering doesn't show up as well, click to expand the pic may help... Steve

View attachment 569920 View attachment 569921 View attachment 569922 View attachment 569923 View attachment 569924 View attachment 569925

Thanks for clarifying Frankenater like putting them in the position that it's suppose to be in, I think if I study it long enough even I can make it, but right now my cheap HF water filter seems to b working, not getting any water out of my air tools.

dragoneggs · Sep 9, 2018

I think black pipe will be the cheapest metal option. Aluminum would be a luxury in my mind. The plastic RapidAir is intriguing for the simplicity and easy install, but I like straight non sagging installs. Just the analness in me I guess. I would like something that is easier to reconfigure since my shop is on wheels for the most part and I don't have my tool station locations in stone (or concrete I should say).

Oldpath05 · Sep 9, 2018

I did get around to securing my shop a little better this past weekend, got one combo lock on one door, do the next one next week. One thing important on these sliding bolt locks is get perfectly line up, there's no room for error. once line up it works good only had to do that twice, once done just move one dial to lock. It's screwed on with fillip screws, I use a couple longer square drive, I'm still trying to figure out if it can be unscrewed and taken apart without unlocking it first doesn't look like it can be, which is a nice feature just in case I have to re-tweak it if cold weather affects it.

I was hopping the numbers on the 4 dials would be easy to see without my glasses but it's not, barely make them out, thinking about high lighting the numbers and put a sign above the lock for the burglars to read>>>>Ignore the High lighted Numbers.
View attachment 570414 View attachment 570415 View attachment 570416

BukitCase · Sep 13, 2018

"Think about doing a quick strength test on this PVC rated for 600 psi, I'll take a sledge hammer to it and see if it breaks, safty glasses just in case there's flying sparks."

You forgot "Hey, watch this; hold my beer..."

Seriously, I hope you're just tryin' to get me to rise to the bait; otherwise, what part of SHRAPNEL did you NOT read??!?

Anyway, I'm thinking the reason that jhfoster site likes the fancy aluminum might have something to do with how much MONEY they charge for all the fancy connections; I kinda doubt your need for keeping costs down will be compatible with their price list...

Here's some pricing on black iron from HomeDepot - the pipe
https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-2-in-x-120-in-Black-Steel-10-ft-Sch-40-Pipe-314-12X120/100553686

And 1/2" fittings -
1/2" - Black Pipe & Fittings - Pipes & Fittings - The Home Depot

Keep in mind that any DROPS from the main line will pass on LESS WATER if the drops go up/over/down, instead of just DOWN - it ALSO means that, besides a tee each drop would ALSO need at least two Street Els, so fitting cost would go up AT LEAST another $5 per drop...

There's more, but this should get you in the ballpark on pricing... Steve

BukitCase · Sep 13, 2018

On another (less off-topic) note - my "container guy" finally found time for one of his better drivers to stop by and move the two hi-cube 40's where they'll stay - we were both too busy "beating the clock" for me to get pics of the roll-back truck in action, but here's what I DID get -

"Way before (where they were for the last few months)

The goal was to get the containers moved into place while weather was still DRY; that's CLAY soil, and it doesn't tend to play nice with wetness and heavy equipment

...Steve

BukitCase · Sep 13, 2018

Next is AFTER both containers were sitting (sorta) on their respective "floatation" pads, but BEFORE the "mil-spec Lego blocks" get set so they'll be LEVEL...

Where they WERE -