3-Point Hitch hydraulic top link

[firebird93]

i recently did it and love it. a lot easier then constantly adjusting and makes it easier to hook up implements. make sure you get one with check valves so no leak down issues

 

[Texasmark]

have read a lot of comments about hydraulic top links,seems like it would be a handy addition to smaller tractors,with the limited lift they have.doesn,t seem too difficult,just a cylinder of the right size and hoses.anybody done this?

The problem I have had on using hydraulic cylinders to set depth/height is that as the fluid heats (for whatever reason) it expands causing the rod to extend beyond the set point, or if a leaker just the opposite. If you are on top of it, fine. If you don't pay attention it may mess up what you are doing. Numerous times I have replaced a cylinder with a ratchet type spiral device.

 

[Xfaxman]

that cylinder looks perfect,who makes it?

Bare-Co. Bare Co USA - Hydraulic Top Links

Also check: Tractor Top Link Hydraulic Cylinders | Hydraulic Cylinders | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

 

[Whitbread]

Something to consider about a top or side link with anti creep/locking valving is that you cannot float them. Depending on what you're doing, it may or may not be a big deal.

I purposely put my system together so I can float both top and side links to maintain my crowned and sloped driveway shape instead of cutting into it. As a creep test, I put my boom pole all the way up with about 100lbs dangling on it with the top link as short as it goes. Over 2 days, the top link has crept out about 3/4-1". That's not nearly fast enough to cause any kind of issue when grading a driveway or carrying a log on my boom. Obviously, your resruls may differ with other valves and cylinders. Maybe I just got tight ones?

This is the cylinder I used Dalton CAT-I Top Link Cylinder 2 Bore x 8 Stroke - Dalton Hydraulic

 

[John_Mc]

Something to consider about a top or side link with anti creep/locking valving is that you cannot float them. Depending on what you're doing, it may or may not be a big deal.

I purposely put my system together so I can float both top and side links to maintain my crowned and sloped driveway shape instead of cutting into it. As a creep test, I put my boom pole all the way up with about 100lbs dangling on it with the top link as short as it goes. Over 2 days, the top link has crept out about 3/4-1". That's not nearly fast enough to cause any kind of issue when grading a driveway or carrying a log on my boom. Obviously, your resruls may differ with other valves and cylinders. Maybe I just got tight ones?

Not really an issue for me. My manually adjustable top and side links didn't float either, and none of my implements are designed for such use. I'm not even sure how I'd maintain a crown if my side link were "floating". It seems as though it would just float to follow the existing crown. Having never used such a system, I'm sure I must be missing something.

 

[Whitbread]

The two most common tools (for me anyway) you would use float on are box blade or land plane/scraper. Could also be used with a bush hog/rear mower to help keep the mower in constant contact when cresting a hill or ridge. Float is in the same category as as hydraulic top link itself, it's not remotely necessary to do a job, but it can make certain jobs much easier.

 

[/pine]

The two most common tools you would use float on are box blade or land plane/scraper. Could also be used with a bush hog/rear mower to help keep the mower in constant contact when cresting a hill or ridge. Float is in the same category as as hydraulic top link itself, it's not remotely necessary to do a job, but it can make certain jobs much easier.

It would be absurd to put a HTL in float position when using a box blade IMO...

BTW...three point hitches are always in float position unless draft control is present and set...

 

[Whitbread]

Absurd or not by your opinion, I have lots of elevation changes and 3 drainage cuts across my driveway. It winds uphill and is somewhere around a 20-22° angle which necessitates the drainage cuts/ditches. With a fixed top link set for finishing, I found I hand to constantly have my hand on the 3pt lever and keep an eye on the blade and adjust as needed. With the floating link, dropping the 3pt lever all the way down and letting the top link float lets the blade better follow my terrain changes with far less digging in hard at the bottom of my drainage cuts. I'm not talking about heavy grading or moving dirt, just gentle finish smoothing when I don't want it to dig in. My soil is also 80% sand which doesn't help things, so what works for me in my unique situation may not work for you in yours.

 

[/pine]

Absurd or not by your opinion, I have lots of elevation changes and 3 drainage cuts across my driveway. It winds uphill and is somewhere around a 20-22ｰ angle which necessitates the drainage cuts/ditches. With a fixed top link set for finishing, I found I hand to constantly have my hand on the 3pt lever and keep an eye on the blade and adjust as needed. With the floating link, dropping the 3pt lever all the way down and letting the top link float lets the blade better follow my terrain changes with far less digging in hard at the bottom of my drainage cuts. I'm not talking about heavy grading or moving dirt, just gentle finish smoothing when I don't want it to dig in. My soil is also 80% sand which doesn't help things, so what works for me in my unique situation may not work for you in yours.

Whatever floats your boat...but a box blade is NOT an attachment where a hydraulic top link in float is commonly applicable...

 

[kevinwak]

I have been wondering.....the cost of the valve, tapping into the hydraulic circuit, and mounting it might be an issue for me....so....would it be acceptable to run QC hoses from the FEL curl function to the hydraulic top link. I am not experienced...a complete newbie....and have little knowledge of hydraulics. Or can I use a diverter valve, similar to what I have read about using the curl function to power a grapple? I think I can live without have the curl function on the FEL if it allows an easier and cheaper way to get a hydraulic top link.

I am wondering if tapping into the circuit to install a "normal" top link valve will have fluid spilling all over the place? Same issue with adding a diverter valve?

Seems to me a $200 cylinder and a few feet of hose will accomplish the same function at 1/2 the price. Yet, I like the idea of the diverter valve (adds more cost), if it is less money and easier to do, as if I needed to use the FEL I would not need to switch QC's. But is it just as much trouble/cost to install a diverter valve as doing it right in the first place?

Sorry for all the dumb questions.

You can definitely use a loader curl circuit to control the top link. But you would either need to always be changing over hoses, or add a diverted valve. But it is a cheap starting point. Do it that way will get you in the hydraulic top link game and you can then decide if you want to add a diverted valve or a dedicated circuit. If you do decide to add a dedicated circuit add two, cheap to do at the time and you never know what the future holds. .