Oil changes: Warm or Cold?

   / Oil changes: Warm or Cold?
  • Thread Starter
#21  
When the engine is shut down the hot oil is going to drain into the sump so if you drain it cold it doesn稚 need to drain off engine parts except the oil pump inlet. If drained hot almost all the oil will drain off the parts. Worst is slightly warmed and then drained because gunk can stick to the engine parts. But with today痴 oils it probably doesn稚 make much difference. I remember the old days when the oil we drained started coming out in globs near the end, and that was with 1,000 or 2,000 mile changes on cars and pickups, 50 hour on tractors.

Does/did it really come out in globs, or does it just look that way once the level is low enough that air can go IN the oil plug hole? A case of the viscosity of oil making this air "gulp" look like globs of oil are coming out?

I think a factor in the hot/cold "debate" (there really is none, but playing :devil: ); is how does oil flow out of the drain hole? Doesn't it flow off the bottom? (Significantly enough to carry particles off the bottom?) Is there "sludge" oil on bottom with a different viscosity than rest of oil pan, and does it flow differently/stay behind when plug is removed?
 
   / Oil changes: Warm or Cold? #22  
I always change on the hot side.

I usually run the engine until the filter is hot to the touch, shut off the engine and drain the oil/change filter.

That works best for me on both the tractor and truck. :2cents:
 
   / Oil changes: Warm or Cold? #23  
Has anyone had gunk come out during an oil change recently? With modern oils and better filters, I don't understand how getting an engine hot can suspend 'stuff' but not have it get caught in a filter. I changed the oil in my 60 year old Ford 850 last week, and since it has a huge drain plug (2" or so) I curled my finger up inside to rub the bottom of the pan after the old oil was drained. It was squeaky clean. Well, not quite squeaky since it did have a light layer of oil, but there was no gunk, sludge, or particles of anything.

When the weather is cold like it is now, I prefer to get an engine hot but let it cool down and change when the oil is warm. That allows the oil to drain back down but still flow easy when draining. In the summer when the oil is relatively warm, I change it without pre-warming.
 
   / Oil changes: Warm or Cold?
  • Thread Starter
#24  
I run the engine under full load until operating temperature is reached. Then I shut the engine down and monitor the temperature of the oil in the pan with an RTD probe until the temperature is at 135 degrees F and then pull the plug. This method allows for the maximum suspension of particulates while preventing contact burns from hot oil as it is below 140 degrees at the time of draining.

RTD probe eh?? Hmmm...
Yep, probably best if I take the oil pan and valve covers off and power wash everything with a sludge remover as long as I'm changing the oil.

At least your posts come with a "**WARNING:..." :D
 
   / Oil changes: Warm or Cold? #25  
Coby, I think you may have sensed my sarcasm WITHOUT a warning!
 
   / Oil changes: Warm or Cold? #26  
I think the hot/cold thing is mostly a leftover from the past when oils and filters were poor.
The owners manual for my 24 Dodge says to change the oil every 500 miles and drop the oil pan to scrape out the sludge and clean it with kerosene once a year. The car doesn’t even have an oil filter.
I just run cheap Walmart 10-40 in it and change it every couple years (100 miles or so total). After 25 years of that, I dropped the pan to clean it a couple years ago and it was still spotless inside.
Today’s lubricants are infinitely better than they were back in those days.
 
   / Oil changes: Warm or Cold? #27  
This has been an enjoyable read especially a couple of the later ones,
I prefer to change mine when it has been warmed up.

I'll ask another question in this vein, after you have let your engine drain well, and completed your
change do you just start it up and watch that red light till it goes out or the gauge comes up, OR
do you disable the ignition or fuel shutoff and crank the engine over to get oil back up into all the passages
you just drained it from???

For what it's worth RAM on the eco-diesels now wants a half hour draining time.
 
   / Oil changes: Warm or Cold? #29  
Would the oil flow better cold with multi-viscosity oil that are in most engines? As the oil heats it becomes thicker. Don't think it it really matters.

Dave

Dave,

Great point I agree!
 
   / Oil changes: Warm or Cold? #30  
I always do mine cold but after the engine was worked before parking. I assume the oil filter has done it's job and parking it after working should have ALL the oil drained into the pan. I don't care how fast it drains. I pull the plug and go about some other task while it drains. Don't care a thing about having hot oil splash on me.
 

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