MF1533 will not crank

[bshinoski]

My 1533 SyncroShuttle will not crank. I took the risk and purchased a download manual ($25 for 711 pages, so far seems worth it and includes electrical schematics)
I have tested multiple things:
1. Jumping 12v to starter solenoid input fires the starter. This tells me that the battery and starter are functional.
2. Tested battery with load meter. Output matches rated CCA on battery.
3. Master switch (Key switch). 12v in post to all outlet posts seem to be working properly.
4. Turning the key to the acc position actuates the safety start relay, safety sensors working properly.
5. No 12v coming to the safety relay when key is turned to the start position. This one is confusing due to the key switch working properly and source 12v present at the key switch.
6. Tried jumping 12v directly to the safety relay output that goes directly to the starter solenoid input. This does nothing for some reason, even though I checked continuity and voltage at the starter (this one kills me).
7. Unplugged the lead to the glow plugs. Didn't fix anything except now the glow plug light comes on and the starter safety solenoid buzzes.
8. Cussed the **** thing. Called it a f#ckn b!tch.
Things i'm going to try next.
1. Unplug all fuses that are not related to the engine starting. This should eliminate any wierd shorts that would draw too much power from the rest of the system.
2. Cuss at it some more. Maybe try awrny c#nt or **** eating bostard (it may be male).
3. Bypass wire from safety relay directly to starter input (maybe it has a short/break).

FYI: seat switch does not keep the motor from cranking, only starting (fuel cutoff solenoid is directed by the seat switch through the two relays in the front of the tractor and is activated by the ACC position of the key switch).

Any insight, or other things to yell at the MF'r are greatly appreciated.
Thanks, B

 

[bshinoski]

UPDATE!
Opened the back door and called it a **** eating bostard... it didn't even move.

 

[bshinoski]

Jumped from 12v at key switch connector (which reads 12V!) directly to starter input...f'n nothing. When is 12v not 12v?

 

[TSO]

On my machines that had an active seat switch, it DID prevent them from cranking. That included 2 Iseki-built Massey's (like yours) before I bypassed the seat switch. Food for thought...

 

[TSO]

Another thought... Check the gear shift linkage. It's possible that you aren't getting fully into neutral, which would prevent cranking.

 

[bshinoski]

OK. Got it running.
Main voltage wire (Red) runs from battery/fuse (left side), across the front of the radiator, then along the right side of the engine as part of the main harness. Then it is forced between the motor and the firewall and jammed through a grommet under the steering column. Somewhere between the forced area and the jammed they decided to splice/split the main power using a beautiful, black tape wrapped, crimp connector. This had broken just enough to pass 12v, but not much else. In order to reach it I had to pull all of the dash wiring down below the steering column, as well as remove the fuse box and cut off the grommet. Then to provide additional slack I removed the zip ties that held the harness as it traveled along the left side towards the rear lights. I accessed the joint by pulling the wire harness out from under the fuel tank.
I hope this helps anyone who runs into this problem.

TLDR; Main power wire splits in the main harness. This joint broke and I fixed it.

 

[mapper]

Good thing it's red, you can't see it blushing from all the insults you hurled at it. Of course it is now thinking up ways to mess with you in the future

 

[jaxs]

Thanks for posting the solution but instead of how you talked:hissyfit: to it,I recommend owners try :heart: 恋人を始めてください if they expect tractor to comprehend.

 

[irvingj]

Good idea, jaxs! :laughing:

I was stationed in Japan in the early 70s, so was able to properly address my 2310 for a very similar situation... (Eventually found a broken ground cable which cured the "everything works but it won't crank" problem.)

 

[thclimer]

Oh my this was a fun read, it always seems to be something that you don't expect.

Aren't wires always supposed to be good conductors, unless they have been cut and spliced/crimped back together poorly, or if there is corrosion in them, of it their insulation has been chafed by vibration or chewed by a rodent and grounding out.....and the list goes on I'm sure.