I have a Kubota M7060. The hole in the drawbar is 1 1/4". However, I want to pull an old pickup bed that is a trailer as well as some other attachment. However, the hole in those tongues are smaller than 1 1/4". They are more in the 7/8" and 1" size. What is the proper way to attach the tongues to the drawbar so that there is no slack? My concern is elongating the hole in the drawbar due to slack.
Question about drawbar and pins for attachments
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CMV
Platinum Member
I would grab a piece of scrap steel and make a sleeve on the lathe.
You could find something 1.25" in diameter, drill a 7/8" hole and have a bushing.
Or put a trailer ball on the drawbar and a trailer hitch on the trailer.
If the coupler on the trailer is long enough you could drill the correct size hole in the drawbar in front of the hole that's already there.
If there's enough material open up the 7/8" hole to 1.25" with a silver & deming drill.
That's all that came to mind.
You could find something 1.25" in diameter, drill a 7/8" hole and have a bushing.
Or put a trailer ball on the drawbar and a trailer hitch on the trailer.
If the coupler on the trailer is long enough you could drill the correct size hole in the drawbar in front of the hole that's already there.
If there's enough material open up the 7/8" hole to 1.25" with a silver & deming drill.
That's all that came to mind.
CobyRupert
Super Member
Don't worry about it. :2cents:
AndyMA
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I do it all the time for over 20 years. No elongation
Andy
Andy
oosik
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I'm sure the OEM drawbar on your M7060 is the same as on my M6040. I've searched the local tractor dealerships and found bushings that will go in the 1 1/4 hole and allow the "stem" of my towing ball(s) to fit snugly. Just bush it down and tighten the ball - good and tight.
You say your old pickup bed trailer does not have a ball receiver on the end of the tongue. Well, they make gobs of varying types that either fit the existing hole or with proper bushings - will fit and can be tightened down. There are many "pintle type" receivers that will go on your drawbar and allow attachment of just about any type of tongue receiver.
Google - pintle hook receiver - as a starting point. You will be truly amazed at the variety.
I've towed my big 'ol Horst farm wagon around the property for seven years now. It has a simple bushing on the draw bar end and a grade 8 bolt plus Nylock nut holding it all together. The only thing that's tight on this arrangement is the Nylock nut on the bolt. Otherwise, it slops up/down and all around the place. On rough terrain you don't really want any of the attachment to be rock tight. Slop prevents binding, bending & breaking. Nothing has been damaged or worn in all this time. View attachment 584541 The receiver end on the Horst tongue is an ideal match for a bushed drawbar hole.
The bolt I use when pulling the wagon - Grade 8, around 8" long, 1" in diameter, Nylock nut. Just twist the nut onto the bolt enough so you know it can't loosen and drop off. NOTHING is "tight" on this arrangement. It's all loose as a goose.
You say your old pickup bed trailer does not have a ball receiver on the end of the tongue. Well, they make gobs of varying types that either fit the existing hole or with proper bushings - will fit and can be tightened down. There are many "pintle type" receivers that will go on your drawbar and allow attachment of just about any type of tongue receiver.
Google - pintle hook receiver - as a starting point. You will be truly amazed at the variety.
I've towed my big 'ol Horst farm wagon around the property for seven years now. It has a simple bushing on the draw bar end and a grade 8 bolt plus Nylock nut holding it all together. The only thing that's tight on this arrangement is the Nylock nut on the bolt. Otherwise, it slops up/down and all around the place. On rough terrain you don't really want any of the attachment to be rock tight. Slop prevents binding, bending & breaking. Nothing has been damaged or worn in all this time. View attachment 584541 The receiver end on the Horst tongue is an ideal match for a bushed drawbar hole.
The bolt I use when pulling the wagon - Grade 8, around 8" long, 1" in diameter, Nylock nut. Just twist the nut onto the bolt enough so you know it can't loosen and drop off. NOTHING is "tight" on this arrangement. It's all loose as a goose.
WranglerX
Super Member
Just put trailer tongue in place use pin that will fit draw bar.... Little sloppy but will work....
Trying to bush the tongue smaller will be exercise in futility unless you can weld bushing in place... Or drill one hole on either side of center hole (main) for larger pin, a couple of inch offset while towing (on the farm) is not going to hurt anything...
Dale
Trying to bush the tongue smaller will be exercise in futility unless you can weld bushing in place... Or drill one hole on either side of center hole (main) for larger pin, a couple of inch offset while towing (on the farm) is not going to hurt anything...
Dale
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A flanged type bushing that you can just drop in when you need it would work good. One example is a hardened drill bushing with a 1-1/4 od and a 7/8 id.
McMaster-Carr
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If the trailer is a clevis type hitch going over your tractor drawbar you do not want a tight fitting draw pin.
As your tractor goes across rough ground and tips a bit sideways and your trailer tips a bit the other way the looseness in
that pin hole is what allows that otherwise something else will have to bend or twist.
Yes, after many hundreds of hours draw bars will get elongated, thats what welders are made for, :dance1:
As your tractor goes across rough ground and tips a bit sideways and your trailer tips a bit the other way the looseness in
that pin hole is what allows that otherwise something else will have to bend or twist.
Yes, after many hundreds of hours draw bars will get elongated, thats what welders are made for, :dance1: