Why buy new
- Thread starter LouNY
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kenmac
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- The Heart of Dixie
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- McCormick CX105 Kubota MX 5100 HST, Kubota ZD1021, Kawsaki Mule 4010 trans 4x4
look for your local independent tractor dealer.
Guy I bought from is local independent . Said he sells and ships tractors all over the country
My 2013 MX 5100 with 380 hrs was 23K with 3rd function
I looked for a year and a half. I found a lot of overpriced junk; I would have kept my 275 if I wanted to dump time and money into a tractor. I finally did buy a 2 year old Kubota with 179 hours on it, saving a whopping $2000over the price of a new one; and started having fuel issues before I used up my first tank. I lost an entire month trying to get that straightened out.
I put 250 hours on it the first year, and expect to put about that many on it again this year. I really didn't want to get something that was going to be worn out it 5 years.
kenmac
Super Member
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- Feb 13, 2005
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- The Heart of Dixie
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- McCormick CX105 Kubota MX 5100 HST, Kubota ZD1021, Kawsaki Mule 4010 trans 4x4
I wanted this with HST, which usually is a little more $$.
I have no idea what a new mx 5200 HST 4w drive would cost. But I didn't want more emissions either
I have had no issues from my used tractor. I have been pleased with it
Tractors
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I don't worry about emissions, but did not want HST. I have both. I get the impression that there are places where a lot of new tractors have been bought then repossessed or something, because there certainly isn't a plethora of used tractors around here. I got to the point where I needed to buy something, and found this used 3301HST at 10:30 PM, the night before I was going to go pull the trigger on a new geared 3901.
rScotty
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- Kubota M59, JD530, JD310SG. Restoring Yanmar YM165D
Maybe you'll hear from someone on TBN. That would be nice.
I haven't any idea where to start where you live, but people tend to understand their own area. Here in the western US I used to look in small rural newspapers and want ads for implements. And I'd stop by and chat with independent dealers and collectors. You might just ask around; most rural communities have some way for people to communicate these things.
I found my last tractor on the bulletin board at the local feed and seed store. The one before that was from an independent tractor dealer in Wash. state who posted online. Just sold one a couple of years ago which went to a guy in Michigan who follows TBN.
In each case the hauling was done by an independent -which is often a retired guy with a pickup and flatbed. All of these have been great tractors without problems. So they're out there.
rScotty
kenmac
Super Member
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2005
- Messages
- 9,835
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- The Heart of Dixie
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- McCormick CX105 Kubota MX 5100 HST, Kubota ZD1021, Kawsaki Mule 4010 trans 4x4
I provided a link to a local guy that will ship anywhere
Tractorable
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I have an 8N because it’s all I could afford after buying the property and the hundred other expensive things you need to buy going from a town house to a rural property. But hey, it’s paid for.
I also have lots of projects not getting done because the N isn’t capable of doing them.
When the time comes I’ll probably put 20% down on a new tractor and pay cash for the implements.
I also have lots of projects not getting done because the N isn’t capable of doing them.
When the time comes I’ll probably put 20% down on a new tractor and pay cash for the implements.
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Overtaxed
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A few folks have said in this thread they can't find 2% interest. Let me help you, American Express Bank (the arm that basically funds the purchases people make on their CC's) offer 2% for a small initial deposit, not an intro rate, FDIC insured. So that's your opportunity cost (you can actually get a little higher than that today, maybe 2.5% max with 0 risk; IE, FDIC insured). You give up that 2% if you pay cash for anything. Can you finance for less than that? Depends on the company. But, if the cash discount is less than 2%, and/or the APR is under 2%, you should finance, 100% of the time, and keep the money in the bank/stock market/bonds/etc.
Whenever I buy something new, it's a simple calculation to figure out if I should finance it or not. A few years back, almost everything should be financed because interest rates were so low. I took out 84 month+ loans on things that are making me a lot of money today because the money I would have spent is still sitting in my bank account. If it's 0% and there's no cash discount, the only question that should come next is "how long can I finance it for at 0%". 3 years, 5 years? Shoot, give me a 100 year 0% loan and I'll buy a 100HP skid and a matching excavator today (are you listening Kubota? Please feel free to reach me by PM!!).
Listen, dealers and OEMs do stupid things sometimes. My F150 is leased because, at the time, Ford was offering an effective .5% (yes, you're reading that right) on leases but 1.9% on financing. Yeah, that's just stupid, a lease is financing something with a put option (a guaranteed right to return it at a predetermined price and time), it should ALWAYS cost more because it's a safer product for the consumer (pay cash, drive the truck off the lot and it's stolen, you're in a world of hurt.. If it's leased, all leases have gap protection, you might not even make your first payment, just go back and get another one). However, my wife's SUV was financed (.9%) because they offered no cash discount and lease rates were higher. And my tractor (Kioti NX6010) I paid cash for because their low interest financing would mean I had to pay for the loader (5K) and their normal interest financing was stupid high (5.9% at the time, IIRC). Leasing was not an option.
There's no "right answer". All these financial products have a place, and all of them can be great deals or horrible ones. 0% financing for 3 years on a 30K car where you paid 5K more than the guy paying cash? Terrible deal. Same financing where you got the cash price? Great deal. With car dealers, always, always start off with "I'm looking at paying cash, but, if you can offer me good financing, I'll consider it". Get the cash price, compare that to something like KBB or invoice to see where you are and then get the finance details (APR for buying, money factor and residual for leasing).
My truck was actually a really silly lease, 2 years, 24K miles. I fully intended to buy this truck when I walked into the dealership, but, hey, if you're willing to float me 65K for 2 years for basically nothing, plus take the risk of theft, totaling the truck, having major problems that lead me to want another vehicle?? Well, sure, I'm going to do that and you (Ford) are kind of stupid for making that deal but who am I to complain?
Whenever I buy something new, it's a simple calculation to figure out if I should finance it or not. A few years back, almost everything should be financed because interest rates were so low. I took out 84 month+ loans on things that are making me a lot of money today because the money I would have spent is still sitting in my bank account. If it's 0% and there's no cash discount, the only question that should come next is "how long can I finance it for at 0%". 3 years, 5 years? Shoot, give me a 100 year 0% loan and I'll buy a 100HP skid and a matching excavator today (are you listening Kubota? Please feel free to reach me by PM!!).
Listen, dealers and OEMs do stupid things sometimes. My F150 is leased because, at the time, Ford was offering an effective .5% (yes, you're reading that right) on leases but 1.9% on financing. Yeah, that's just stupid, a lease is financing something with a put option (a guaranteed right to return it at a predetermined price and time), it should ALWAYS cost more because it's a safer product for the consumer (pay cash, drive the truck off the lot and it's stolen, you're in a world of hurt.. If it's leased, all leases have gap protection, you might not even make your first payment, just go back and get another one). However, my wife's SUV was financed (.9%) because they offered no cash discount and lease rates were higher. And my tractor (Kioti NX6010) I paid cash for because their low interest financing would mean I had to pay for the loader (5K) and their normal interest financing was stupid high (5.9% at the time, IIRC). Leasing was not an option.
There's no "right answer". All these financial products have a place, and all of them can be great deals or horrible ones. 0% financing for 3 years on a 30K car where you paid 5K more than the guy paying cash? Terrible deal. Same financing where you got the cash price? Great deal. With car dealers, always, always start off with "I'm looking at paying cash, but, if you can offer me good financing, I'll consider it". Get the cash price, compare that to something like KBB or invoice to see where you are and then get the finance details (APR for buying, money factor and residual for leasing).
My truck was actually a really silly lease, 2 years, 24K miles. I fully intended to buy this truck when I walked into the dealership, but, hey, if you're willing to float me 65K for 2 years for basically nothing, plus take the risk of theft, totaling the truck, having major problems that lead me to want another vehicle?? Well, sure, I'm going to do that and you (Ford) are kind of stupid for making that deal but who am I to complain?
