Iseki tx1500 name of lifting arms part?

[pratonda27]

https://www.monotaro.sg/p/18912678/

 

[marcelPL]

Ok. Probably last message on this subject.

I cleaned everything, changed oil on both engine and gearbox/differential. I managed to get a new oil filter for hydraulics from some polish company, because the old one was beyond repair. From this tractor60.hu i got oil filter for engine, including filter for air and fuel. Also a complete gasket set, except for gearbox and differential, so i still had to do some homecooking.

I took the hydraulic unit that i bought ($400!!) apart for cleaning inside. One of the o-rings was kaputt, but no chance to get one here so i put everything back the way i found it.

When everything was in place, it started within one second. I was really happy. The moment of truth was trying the hydraulic unit to see if it worked and guess what: it WORKED! I was thrilled.

I took it for a test-drive on my land, and found that i only had low-gear (only slow speed). So i must have made some mistake. I took everything off (again, 2nd time), and had a good look at gearbox. It was a stupid mistake i made. So i put everything back in the correct way, started, and did the same testdrive. This time i had 6 gears to work with. But then tested the hydraulics, and it did not work anymore. The only explanation i could think of was that i connected the hydraulic pipe onto this unit different, maybe causing some air being locked in the pipe.

So i took everything apart (again, 3rd time), also opened up the hydraulic unit, just to make sure that the piston inside was not blocked or anything.

After this, it started ok, but this time i could not get the gears in the 'free' position. Meaning i had to start it with clutch pressed. So again i must have done something wrong. Also the hydraulics still did not work.

Obviously i don't have the talent or skills to fix this, so next week i will take it to some shop to get a FEL installed, and ask these people to have a look at the hydraulics unit. Better throw many at it than having it not working at all....

Just a question: Is it somehow possible to find out if oil is being pumped into the hydraulics? Can you just disconnect an hydraulic line when engine running?

Anyway it was quite a learning experience, thanks for helping out, especially Chris and Don on their extensive documentation, i learned a lot

filters and gaskets received from Hungary:


hydraulics unit installed with the feeding line going upward, maybe air inside?


Everything back in place, enjoying the sun

 

[chrismac]

You are getting there, well done, you only have small issues left don't be beat just yet, take he cover off again and study the linkages and gear selectors these are fiddly to return to where they were removed from, ie, if it was in neutral when you took the cover off the gear leaver needs to be in neutral when you place it back on with out moving the selectors (the high and low also,), you can hear a load on the engine if the pump is pumping to a dead head, ( blockage ) if the hydraulics were working you are close to getting them working away, I did slacken a pipe very carefully when I had my hydraulic issues, just make sure you do it slow because it makes a very big mess if the tractor is pumping, the hydraulics should be pumping continuously and only diverted to the lift when the leaver is moved, then lifting the arms.

Good luck, go on give it another look, you will be a happy person if you find the problem, self satisfaction that's what its all about.

Chris

 

[marcelPL]

Haha Chris no worries, i may have suffered some defeats by my own stupidity, but i am not beaten. But thanks for the support...

And i have already taken off (again, 4th time) the top of gearbox and diff to fix it, i should have just looked before closing it.

I also answered my own question on how to find out if the oil-pump is working: i just started the engine without having the valve control assy connected. It sprayed oil like Niagara, so that part must be ok.

Now assuming i put the hydraulic casing unit back together in the correct way, it can only be that the problem is within this valve control assy.

Does anybody know if i can just take this apart?

Thx M.

 

[fxrs55]

Here are a few pictures of valve disassembled.
also a few pictures of the o-rings from my 3 point piston.
it didn't work well until i replaced the 2 o-rings.
One o-ring is a standard type but the other
one is whats called a back up ring. the backup
ring is really a support and it is not rubber.
it is in there to keep the rubber o-ring from
pushing out of the o-ring groove under pressure.
you need to replace those o-rings to eliminate that
problem, then see if 3 point works.

 

[marcelPL]

Ok Don, thanks a lot (again). I was really afraid to take this valve apart.

Because it DID work once, i am still hoping i can get this hydraulics fixed. Also my o-rings look the same like your originals (really bad), i will try to find some specialised company to try and order these 3 o-rings that go inside the hydraulic unit. Where did you find them?

These valve photo's will really help. Super!

 

[fxrs55]

Hey Marcel,
I may have a spare set of new o-rings. If I don't
I will order them from the place I bought my new
ones from. When I have everything ready
I will mail them to you. Is it legal for me
to mail you a few o-rings. I guess I can
check at my local post office. If I can
mail them with out going to prison I'll mail them
to you as soon as I'm sure I have new ones.
My treat, no cost to you. If you are interested
send me a PM with you mailing address.

Also, in the picture of my valve is a manifold that
is for my front blade. You don't have that part
so don't look for it. HA HA

 

[marcelPL]

WOW. That's an offer i will gladly and thankfully accept. And Poland is european union, so i guess there will be no problem.

And yes, i spent 15 minutes trying to find this part shown on the photo on my traktor, so thanks for telling

I will send you PM or email with my address, thanks again, really appreciate it.
M.

 

[fxrs55]

I just checked the container of Iseki stuff and I have the
o-rings for the 3 point piston. I have one o-ring that
is 90 durometer and one that is 70 durometer. The 70 is
softer than the 90 and I used the 70 durometer in
mine. I also have 2 of the split teflon backup rings.
I used 2 of the Teflon backup rings and one of the
rubber o-rings on my piston.
I will mail the 2 Teflon backup rings and the 2
rubber o-rings. You can decide which rubber o-ring
you want to use.

 

[marcelPL]

Ok brilliant, many thanks again.
M.