distributor cap tracking

[Bayfisher]

are u getting 12 V at the coil +

 

[Bandit2026]

Its only a 6 volt. Its something simple but what? I hooked a test light to the wire on top of the coil turned the switch on and hit starter light would dim down but not off.

 

[jaxs]

Its only a 6 volt. Its something simple but what? I hooked a test light to the wire on top of the coil turned the switch on and hit starter light would dim down but not off.

You can expect voltage drop while cranking,how much is an inexact figure but too much drop will certainly effect starting. To overcome the effect of normal voltage drop while cranking,2 wires are used to supply coil. One has resistance,the other does not and is live ONLY while cranking. That may sound dumb but here's the reason. Coils are designed to function at a certain voltage for peak output without overheating.
Lets say say 4.5volts for example. If we had only 1 wire,there would be 4.5 while cranking but 6 while running and coil would overheat. To eliminate this as cause of problem,do this. Confirm that + battey post has cable running to engine block. By hook,rook or theft,use a meter to test voltage between battery posts,voltage between - post and engine block and voltage between coil and engine block with cable disconnected from starter and key/start button in start position. All should be same or at least within 0.01v.
Now with key in run position,NOT CRANKING,test between coil and engine block. You should see LESS than previous tests. Someone help me out here with EXACT run volts for a 6v N tractor. Report results.

 

[TractorGuy]

Tracking can most often be attributed to worn rotor and cap contacts increasing the gap between them. This causes the spark to follow the rotor and leave a carbon track.

 

[Bayfisher]

when it fails to start chk the voltage at the coil + when cranking, should be 5 Volts.

hook up a dwell meter to the neg coil terminal and engine ground, dwell needs to be 32 deg.

upload a side view pic of the carb.

 

[Bandit2026]

I'll try what Jaxs but in the mean time noticed today that amp meter does not show discharge when switch is on and does not jump to big discharge at all when cranking. Not normal!

 

[jaxs]

I'll try what Jaxs but in the mean time noticed today that amp meter does not show discharge when switch is on and does not jump to big discharge at all when cranking. Not normal!

I don't think less than usual amp draw while cranking is relivant to the problem at hand. Were it showing alot greater than normal draw that might possibly be a starter on it's way out or a short. Not seeing meter wiggle when key turned on might mean broke wire,blown fuse, no power to coil or simply points open but the tests will tell you.

 

[Bandit2026]

I did the test that Jaxs suggested.

Voltage between +pos and - neg post and got 7.22

voltage between neg and block 6.55

voltage between coil and block 6.56

with cable unhooked from starter hit button and 0.00

Does this go back to the amp meter not registering, meaning no voltage is going through??

 

[jaxs]

Voltage between +pos and - neg post and got 7.22 Exellent

voltage between neg and block 6.55 A little resistance but not enough to cause your problem.

voltage between coil and block 6.56 This would be good "IF" it's while starter cable disconnected at starter and while pressing start button (with key ON of course)

with cable unhooked from starter hit button and 0.00 In view of above readings,this can't be true. Let's try it again. Cable disconnected at starter,,,key on,,,,press start button,,,,,while reading between coil and block. You should see 6.55 to 6 volts. If you see(per Bayfisher) 4.8 to 5.5 or there abouts,resistance (run) wire and start wire have been swapped. Is there one wire or two wires on coil?
Does this go back to the amp meter not registering, meaning no voltage is going through?? I don't think so.
I realize it can be frusterating but we've all been down the same road,,,,more than once. Taking everything you have said into consideration,possability of bad condenser keep's nagging at me. I don't like throwing parts at a problem but condenser require's specialized tool that few own this day and time. I think it's worth a gamble to replace it ONLY WITH ONE FROM NAPA or other good parts place. AutoZone and such don't carry what you need. Ideally,you want brand name Blue Streak,Echlin,Standard or other
high quality. Let us know about the one re-test.

 

[Bandit2026]

The condenser was replaced day before yesterday with best NAPA had, Echlin. There is only one wire on top of the distributor and nothing was done to any wiring since I re did the tractor 30 years ago. I'm telling you this thing ran like a champ when I backed it into the barn. Went to get it and nothing not a peep. I've found no evidence of mice or birds anywhere. No one has touched it. I'm at my wits end.
I'll go back today and test everything again and report back. Thanks for your patience.