MF 1020 fuel issues.. I need your Knowledge!!

[notmyP0S]

Hello, hopefully some on here can point me in the right direction.

Over this past winter the tractor became harder and harder to start until it just would not start. I found cloudy looking fuel coming from the filter and so I drained the tank put in fresh fuel and installed new filter. I did put in brand new glow plugs and confirmed they are working. Then I took out injectors and found them in pretty bad shape, they were not installed correctly and had lots of carbon build up in the area where the injectors seat. I had the injectors cleaned and tested. I cleaned out all the carbon and re seated the injectors correctly.

Here is where I'm stuck. While I had the injectors lines off I turned over the engine to see if the pump would shoot any fuel out and nothing. Well almost nothing, I mean barely any fuel pressure would come out of the pump. I put my finger over the ports on the pump and kicked the engine over and I could feel barely any pressure. Is this normal? Or do I have a problem with my pump? Mind you that when it got hard to start barley any black smoke would shoot from the exhaust pipe, so I do believe there is a fuel issue.

What do you think, please help. Thank you

 

[thepumpguysc]

If the cloudy fuel was in the filter.. chances are it made it to the inj. pump..??
Those pumps put out a very small amount of fuel.. especially if the throttle was in the low idle position..
U always put the throttle hi to mid-way for starting.. & if it has a manual shut-off..ALWAYS, ALWAYS push it back to the run position before putting it to bed.
Just hook the lines back up & follow the bleeding procedure.. & SEE if u have a pump problem..

 

[notmyP0S]

Thank you, and as far as bleeding procedure l did bleed it at the inlet line going into the pump. At this point after trying to start the dam thing so many times my starter took a nap on me, so I just got a new one and have yet to install it.
Yes I always return the manual shut off back to the run position.
Before when trying to start the engine it would always bog way down when I pushed half throttle. So it seemed like the thing likes no throttle when starting. But I will give it another go, maybe even partial throttle. I will play with it and see.
Thank you for your reply.

 

[thclimer]

Thank you, and as far as bleeding procedure l did bleed it at the inlet line going into the pump. At this point after trying to start the dam thing so many times my starter took a nap on me, so I just got a new one and have yet to install it.
Yes I always return the manual shut off back to the run position.
Before when trying to start the engine it would always bog way down when I pushed half throttle. So it seemed like the thing likes no throttle when starting. But I will give it another go, maybe even partial throttle. I will play with it and see.
Thank you for your reply.

Did you also bleed the lines to each injector? If not, I know my New Holland TC33D would never start without bleeding each injector line.

 

[notmyP0S]

Did you also bleed the lines to each injector? If not, I know my New Holland TC33D would never start without bleeding each injector line.

I will definitely do this. Thanks

 

[thepumpguysc]

Post #3 IS NOT the bleeding procedure.. so I take u don't have a manual or did a search on the proper procedure..
Do u have a CAV pump or a roosamaster.??
Most are a CAV pump w/ a rectangular top cover w/ the controls ON TOP of the cover.
The RM have the controls on the SIDE of the pump..
The CAV has the main bleeder by the name plate.. double screw, loosen the 5/16 portion of the screw, move the throttle to wide open & crank the engine..
Fuel should squirt out the bleeder screw hole. Now tighten it..
NOW loosen ALL the lines AT THE INJECTORS & crank the engine.. wait for fuel to squirt out THERE & tighten.. it should start now.

 

[notmyP0S]

Post #3 IS NOT the bleeding procedure.. so I take u don't have a manual or did a search on the proper procedure..
Do u have a CAV pump or a roosamaster.??
Most are a CAV pump w/ a rectangular top cover w/ the controls ON TOP of the cover.
The RM have the controls on the SIDE of the pump..
The CAV has the main bleeder by the name plate.. double screw, loosen the 5/16 portion of the screw, move the throttle to wide open & crank the engine..
Fuel should squirt out the bleeder screw hole. Now tighten it..
NOW loosen ALL the lines AT THE INJECTORS & crank the engine.. wait for fuel to squirt out THERE & tighten.. it should start now.

thanks thepumpguysc. Ok here I'm trying to attach a photo of my exact pump. As you can see from the photo that I try to bleed the fuel at the screw where the fuel line connects to the pump (picture is from internet but is the same as my engine).

No I do not have a manual for this tractor, it was given to me last year by my mother in law. If you could provide a link where I could download a free PDF manual I would gladly read up on this tractor.

 

[thepumpguysc]

If u search how to bleed a KUBOTA tractor.. there are some nice videos.. they run the same fuel system..
in the meantime.. make sure u have good flow TO THE INJ. PUMP.. loosen the bleeder at the inlet.
Then loosen ALL the lines AT THE INJECTORS & crank the engine until fuel squirts out of the loosened lines AT THE INJECTORS & retighten.
Done..

 

[JWR]

...
Then loosen ALL the lines AT THE INJECTORS & crank the engine until fuel squirts out of the loosened lines AT THE INJECTORS & retighten.
Done..

There's an awful lot of words on this thread so far. The whole ballgame is simply getting to the point where the fuel "squirts strongly" at every injector input point. Whatever you have to do to get that. And you are better off loosening one injector line at a time so you find out which one or how many were not getting the juice. From all that's been said, I believe once you get the injector lines bled and squirting well, it will start and run.

 

[notmyP0S]

Update! Got the new starter in and wouldn't you know, it runs like a champ. Thanks everyone for your help.