Ford 1220 bellhousing noise
- Thread starter nsjames
- Start date
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a bearing splitter abused properly with a harmonic balancer puller and my 1/2 impact got the steering wheel off.
fun times.
I have removed everything else to the point of
"if 4wd remove front driveshaft" in the service manual.
it's pretty vague about it. even for the axle R&R elsewhere in the book it doesn't say anything about disconecting it.
I removed the zerk in the shaft and was going to push the rubber boot up to see what was up in there and it started to puke gear oil out when I poked at it. I thought that seemed odd. normal? Is it splines in there lubed by gear oil from the diff?
I stopped to come ask the internet if I'm doing it right before I get myself covered in gear oil.
after the driveshaft I just have the remaining hydraulic lines to the rear and it's ready to unbolt.
fun times.
I have removed everything else to the point of
"if 4wd remove front driveshaft" in the service manual.
it's pretty vague about it. even for the axle R&R elsewhere in the book it doesn't say anything about disconecting it.
I removed the zerk in the shaft and was going to push the rubber boot up to see what was up in there and it started to puke gear oil out when I poked at it. I thought that seemed odd. normal? Is it splines in there lubed by gear oil from the diff?
I stopped to come ask the internet if I'm doing it right before I get myself covered in gear oil.
after the driveshaft I just have the remaining hydraulic lines to the rear and it's ready to unbolt.
kirkawilson
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Jun 19, 2011
- Messages
- 539
- Location
- Simpsonville, SC
- Tractor
- New Holland 1920 4WD & Cub Cadet (IH) Model 108
Just want to make sure you have ruled out this source for your problem before you split. https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/parts-repairs/187194-89-ford-1220-9x3-whining.html
According to the pictures in this old thread, the zerk(s) appear to lube the bellhousing, and if not lubed properly, will whine terribly.
According to the pictures in this old thread, the zerk(s) appear to lube the bellhousing, and if not lubed properly, will whine terribly.
it's not from the front driveline.
it happens whether the tractor is moving or not, and I had erratic drive.
The very first thing is says in the service manual under the symptoms is clutch or input shaft.
I also see what looks to be fresh slivers of metal scattered around the inside of the clutch housing when I look through the starter hole.
so I'm fairly certain it's in the clutch housing.
it happens whether the tractor is moving or not, and I had erratic drive.
The very first thing is says in the service manual under the symptoms is clutch or input shaft.
I also see what looks to be fresh slivers of metal scattered around the inside of the clutch housing when I look through the starter hole.
so I'm fairly certain it's in the clutch housing.
front driveshaft disconnected.
The previous hack left the top rubber boot off, so I slid the entire thing up and off the pinion housing.
of course they also couldn't be bothered to put the bolt in the right spot, so they ground it to a point and used it like a set screw. The splines are now jacked in that spot. I should be able to fix them with a file.
I am consistently disappointed with the work of "professional" mechanics from all fields. It doesn't seem to matter if it's the BMW or the ford tractor dealer, work is always sub par and hacked together because someone that doesn't give a **** is going as quickly as they can. This tractor was bought new by my father in law in 1992, and has never been serviced other than a dealer
learn to be your own mechanic people. At least that way you ca nbe assured it's put together properly.
at this point I'm down to the hydraulic lines running to the rear of the tractor, and then it's ready to split.
The previous hack left the top rubber boot off, so I slid the entire thing up and off the pinion housing.
of course they also couldn't be bothered to put the bolt in the right spot, so they ground it to a point and used it like a set screw. The splines are now jacked in that spot. I should be able to fix them with a file.
I am consistently disappointed with the work of "professional" mechanics from all fields. It doesn't seem to matter if it's the BMW or the ford tractor dealer, work is always sub par and hacked together because someone that doesn't give a **** is going as quickly as they can. This tractor was bought new by my father in law in 1992, and has never been serviced other than a dealer
learn to be your own mechanic people. At least that way you ca nbe assured it's put together properly.
at this point I'm down to the hydraulic lines running to the rear of the tractor, and then it's ready to split.
split yesterday.
no damage to any splined components.
clutch hub is loose to the disc and the dual mass springs are all loose.
new clutch disc probably fixes it. I'm just going to do the pressure plate and release bearing too.
flywheel is fine. little scotchbrite and good as new.
no damage to any splined components.
clutch hub is loose to the disc and the dual mass springs are all loose.
new clutch disc probably fixes it. I'm just going to do the pressure plate and release bearing too.
flywheel is fine. little scotchbrite and good as new.
parts showed up. didn't look like complete chinese trash.
installed and put it back together yesterday.
I need to asemble the operator's station today and hopefully it doesn't make noises.
has anyone got a model with the exhaust laying flat? Do you have any extra bracketry out front to support the exhaust?
I want to lay this one's exhaust down, because it never seems to fail that the wind is blowing the exhaust right back into your face.
I think it would be better if it were another 3 feet forward and blowing down and away.
standard socket extension clutch tool
only took me two tries to stab it together.
about two hours later it looked like this
installed and put it back together yesterday.
I need to asemble the operator's station today and hopefully it doesn't make noises.
has anyone got a model with the exhaust laying flat? Do you have any extra bracketry out front to support the exhaust?
I want to lay this one's exhaust down, because it never seems to fail that the wind is blowing the exhaust right back into your face.
I think it would be better if it were another 3 feet forward and blowing down and away.
standard socket extension clutch tool
only took me two tries to stab it together.
about two hours later it looked like this
pmsmechanic
Elite Member
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2013
- Messages
- 4,203
- Location
- Southern Alberta, Canada
- Tractor
- 4410 and F-935 John Deere, MF 245
I changed the exhaust on my 4410 John Deere to a vertical exhaust from a horizontal one to prevent exhaust fumes from blowing into my face. It's a lot less fumes now.
The original exhaust exited out from under the hood right in front of the left front tire. Now it exits a foot or two above my head. It's slighly noisier this way but a lot less fumes.
Good luck on your tractor.
this one is right at face height with it's exhaust. I'm not sure how I'd feel making it taller, it's already a PITA in the orchard.
but that's interesting that you thought it sucked with the low exit.
I guess I'll just leave it.
What it really needs is a turbo to clean up the exhaust haze.
but that's interesting that you thought it sucked with the low exit.
I guess I'll just leave it.
What it really needs is a turbo to clean up the exhaust haze.