Have been working on an articulated loader tractor for some time. Pretty well done with the exception of the loader. Running a pump which if memory serves is about 12 gpm. The first four gallons is diverted to the steering system. The loader bucket is six feet wide. I would like to have the loader valve mounted outside the cab with cable control. Many are rated at ten gpm, others at fourteen or twenty. Is there any down side to getting the ten gpm valve. They are expensive, would like to get it right the first time. Can I trust the math? Not a lot of experience with hydraulics. Engine is a 3.1 V6, pump is driven by a serpentine belt with a good wrap running close to engine speed. Unsure what my pressures will be at this time. Would give more info on the pump which I bought new but is mounted such that cannot read the spec plate.
Loader valve, how many gpm?
- Thread starter roygage
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ptsg
Super Member
You want to match the valve as close as the flow that will be going through it.
So after the flow divider, there will be 8 GPM remaining. So I would go with the 10 GPM valve.
Too small of a valve = restriction on the system, therefore unnecessary heat and strain on the pump.
Too big of a valve = hard to feather the controls and also harder to make two functions at the same time.
Properly sized valve = easier to feather the controls and allows you to make two functions at the same time.
Now most pumps are rated at 2000 RPM with a max RPM of 3600. You don't want to over-speed the pump. You might to check the specs for your pump.
So after the flow divider, there will be 8 GPM remaining. So I would go with the 10 GPM valve.
Too small of a valve = restriction on the system, therefore unnecessary heat and strain on the pump.
Too big of a valve = hard to feather the controls and also harder to make two functions at the same time.
Properly sized valve = easier to feather the controls and allows you to make two functions at the same time.
Now most pumps are rated at 2000 RPM with a max RPM of 3600. You don't want to over-speed the pump. You might to check the specs for your pump.
PTSG, thank you for response. Feel much more comfortable using the ten GPM after reading it. Watched your you tube video. Impressed in particular you ability to build your own cylinders.
Here is a short video my grandson made of ours this weekend.
Having a little fun(2) - YouTube
Here is a short video my grandson made of ours this weekend.
Having a little fun(2) - YouTube
Appreciate that. Die is cast, guess we are going to find out. Several other concerns also. 60chain drive to the back differential. Have a good support bearing for the back of trans. Little concerned about the nose of the pinion shaft. Also concerned our center pivot is not strong enough for the loader. It is the front spindle and hub from a 70 C50 Chevy.
ptsg
Super Member
That's a nice and welt built machine you have there roygage. An automatic transmission with a manual gearbox for the ranges is very clever and it's a nice combo. It gives you the ability to easily shuttle back and forth without the need for a clutch.
Definitely take into consideration what nyone mentioned. Most pumps just have bushings on the shafts that are not meant to take side loads.
Here in Europe, it's very common to use a bearing support on these hydraulic pumps but I'm having a hard time finding that in the US. This is what I mean: "Pump bearing support, Group 3, Cylindrical shaft 6 holes | Bearing Supports | Hydraulic Pumps"
You may have other solutions there that I'm not aware of.
Looking forward for updates on this machine.
Definitely take into consideration what nyone mentioned. Most pumps just have bushings on the shafts that are not meant to take side loads.
Here in Europe, it's very common to use a bearing support on these hydraulic pumps but I'm having a hard time finding that in the US. This is what I mean: "Pump bearing support, Group 3, Cylindrical shaft 6 holes | Bearing Supports | Hydraulic Pumps"
You may have other solutions there that I'm not aware of.
Looking forward for updates on this machine.
kennyd
Advertiser
That is an awesome project!
Is the center pivot more separated than on the original hub of the c50? You could really get away with bushings on a center pivot.
I dont think the pinion shaft is going to like that side load either. That is fairly easy to add a support bearing to. As for the #60 chain im not sure on that. With all that gear reduction your going to have a boat load of torque.
What rear end are you useing?
I dont think the pinion shaft is going to like that side load either. That is fairly easy to add a support bearing to. As for the #60 chain im not sure on that. With all that gear reduction your going to have a boat load of torque.
What rear end are you useing?
