Logging rollover safety

[HaveNotHomestead]

I own Kubota L2501, Loader, R1's adjusted as wide as possible and filled by dealer. I'm fabricating a 5,000 lb winch to the top of my box blade. This a temporary solution, until I can afford a real 3pt skidder.

Now I'm in the steep mountain terrain and don't anticipate leaving trails. I plan to skid logs to me and cut for firewood.

I'm looking for any additional safety to avoid a rollover in woods. I have been priced wheel weights 60 lbs x 6 for $550.00 including hardware. And have prices for Brotek wheel spacers. In a perfect world I would to keep my fluid filled tires, add 4" spacers to each side, and add wheel weights. But I'm not sure if there would be any adverse effects? Can I use all three without catastrophic failure? I flipped my front wheels knowing bearing and seals will wear premature. But I choose life over bearings.

If log size is a concern 20" stump or less. And can adjust WLL by log length.

 

[RNeumann]

I’d just run a grapple out front and keep a long log in it- especially if I was pulling at bad angles. I’d also flip the rippers so they dig in as you pull. Last I’d use Spectra cable. I know loggers typically don’t but they have cages etc when they pull- your lash up doesn’t!

 

[Citydude]

I had 6" per side rear spacers and loaded tires on my L2501 and it was very stable on side hills. I never needed extra the wheel weights. I ran a Farmi winch on it and as RNeumann stated, keep a log in the grapple. Always pull straight to the winch. Plan on investing in a self releasing snatch block if you can't.

 

[s219]

What type of winch are you planning to use? If a 12V bumper mount winch for trucks/UTVs, it's not going to work very well so you might want to think otherwise. They are not rated for repeated continuous duty and are too slow. People have tried them for skidding and failed miserably, so hopefully this advice will save you some $$ and effort.

In lieu of a proper logging winch, a good way to skid logs out is to set up a pulley block in a tree (a "fairlead") and then run a bull rope through it. One end to the log (use a choker chain to avoid wear on the rope) and the other end to the tractor's drawbar pull point (which is below the axle and safe to pull from, unlike the 3-pt hitch). I have moved logs hundreds of feet this way. It's especially useful in rugged terrain and lets you keep the tractor in a safe place.

A good 5/8-3/4" bull rope will set you back a couple hundred dollars but has many uses. My 200' rope is almost 10 years old and I use it for many things, including pulling trees over, directing falls, etc. Other than the time I accidentally cut off 25' with a chainsaw while bucking a log, it has taken a lot of abuse and keeps going.

 

[CobyRupert]

^ What he says. :thumbsup:
Double rear weight (loaded tires and wheel weights) probably aren't necessary. Only if you need more traction.

Reducing center of gravity is the best for (sidehill) stability. Where the ideal is low weight and wide stance. Spacers are a good idea.
I'm of the opinion that loaded tires reduce tractors center of gravity more than same weight centered at axle height using wheel weights.

One thing to consider is weight to keep the front end down.
Sounds like you will have logs setting on the box blade, which extends relatively far of the back, which multiplies the effect of front end lift...and gives you more rear traction too.
Keep box blade, and any 3 point hitch attachment low (below tractor axle height) when pulling so the "angle of pull" (see attachment) can't flip you over backwards.
...but keep log butt off of ground so it can't snag on a rock, root, stump, etc.. and send front of tractor rearing up quicker than you can stop.

View attachment Tractor Overturn Hazards 202[1].pdf

 

[HaveNotHomestead]

As far as winch selection - 12v. I understand they are slow but I will be by myself. My head will be on a swivel watching both ends of the line. Right now speed of the winch is not a concern.

This is for a firewood business not logging. But I am mimicking logging until the logs reach the tractor. Once they have reached the tractor I will cut, split, and stack in a dump trailer.

Right now I'm carrying 16" long rounds by hand up or down hills to splitter.

I have a shoestring budget. To keep overhead down. I don't own a grapple either at this point. It's like starting a mowing business with a push mower and scissors. But it is atleast starting.

 

[1010]

A winch can be hard on the battery and alternator. Make sure you ground the winch solid. And use a heavy enough gauge wire. As mentioned I just don't see a winch lasting very long.
Use the free spool as much a possible. Depending on the winch they can be rebuilt since it is just a starter motor turning it.

 

[HaveNotHomestead]

Would it hurt the axle or housing to run filled tires, spacers, and weights at the same time?

 

[CobyRupert]

Would it hurt the axle or housing to run filled tires, spacers, and weights at the same time?

Isn’t that weight in the tires, or on the axle or rim itself, so it’s not like the “tractor body” weighs more and loads the axle bearings more...other than the additional force it takes to turn a heavier wheel or the fact you can pull more instead of spin. Or am I confused?

 

[HaveNotHomestead]

I have fluid added to the tires for additional weight/ stability. Kubota also offers weights that mount to the wheel. 3 per side at 60 lbs per weight= 360 more lbs. I would prefer to add the weights and spacers to widen the stance= even more stable.