New Member w/ 2500a & some questions

[milan37]

Hello!
I've just purchased a 2500a with 2050 loader. Photos attached.

The PO did a 6-foot paint job (looks great from 6 feet away), installed new clutch, water pump, and resurfaced the flywheel. Overall in pretty good condition, gas C-200 engine.

The seller claimed it's a '77, but I'm not so sure--TractorData (for what it's worth) shows the 2500a only up to '74, and then the 2500b. Before I went to look at it, I was sure it must be a 2505b, but sure enough the number plate says "I2500-A" and all the badges say series A. Ok then.

The serial number is broken at the bottom left corner, but near as I can tell the first digit is '8' making serial number 8340013U000780.

I bought the operator's manual and chassis parts manuals from Jensales. The parts manuals treats the 574 and 2500a as identical.

I sold my '64 Ford 4000 to put some funds towards this tractor, and the controls of the position/draft control are a good bit more complicated but I think I'll get used to it. I loved that Ford but this IH feels like a step up in heaviness of build and capability.

I do have some questions that I could use some help with:

--It doesn't have any rear remotes, and I'd like to add some. The manual has a whole section on Auxilary Valves and Remote Cylinders that notes "One or two auxiliary valves may be added to the right side of the draft control housing." It's confusing to me because the same section also refers to control levers and makes it sound like they should already be on the tractor.

I'm assuming that all means that if I buy the auxiliary valves and control levers, there should be spots to mount them already. Is that right?

Any other tips on mounting remotes to this tractor? My goal is to use a hydraulic top link to allow for easily control of the pitch of the box blade that I use on my gravel drive.

--The leveling box assembly crank moves about 1/8 of a turn then feels completely stuck, like it's jammed. I pumped new grease in until old grease came out of...everywhere, but that didn't help at all.

Are these things re-buildable? I found a complete assembly online for less than $100, so I might just go that route.

--This one doesn't come with diff lock. In the parts manual, the assembly looks relatively simple. Has anyone ever considered gathering the parts up and adding the diff lock? I found a fork for $65, so maybe it's doable?


Thanks for any suggestions you can offer, and if anyone is looking for a part number (for the 2500 or 574) please feel free to message me.

 

[Farmer495]

On the Ag tractors, the remote valves just bolted on the side of the hyd block under where the 3pt levers are and hoses ran to the rear. The levers came through the panel behind your right foot, might be slots in them now. Try on redpowermagazine.

I've never seen any of the Ag tractors with out a difflock, but we only got the UK build ones here, not the US spec gas engine ones.

 

[milan37]

Thanks--I'll try redpowermagazine. I've been digging through threads here and there and I think I'm starting to understand (a little).

There are slots that look like they're for more levers next to the 3pt levers. If I'm understanding correctly the access to add aux valves involves removing the seat and some sheet metal.

 

[aczlan]

The other possibility is to plumb them into the loader circuit (usually ahead of the loader valve).
That will require a valve that can handle the full flow of the loader circuit (15-20GPM IIRC).

Aaron Z

 

[milan37]

The other possibility is to plumb them into the loader circuit (usually ahead of the loader valve).
That will require a valve that can handle the full flow of the loader circuit (15-20GPM IIRC).

Aaron Z

Thank you.

I'd been thinking about whether or not I could do something with the loader circuit. I believe I've confirmed that the machine has the high flow auxiliary pump option--the loader is fed by a separate pump under the right side (with a separate filter) while the MCV is under the left side and supplies the 3pt.

I really need to educate myself on hydraulics. I don't understand a thing.

I decided to just buy the leveling box assembly. It's red, but the same part number that's stamped on the one mounted on the machine, and otherwise looks identical. The price was right.


Thanks for the suggestions!

 

[aczlan]

A valve such as 2 Spool 25 GPM Prince RD522CCAA5A4B1 Valve | Directional Control Valves | Hydraulic Valves | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com would work
You would take the line from the pump off of your current valve, put it onto the input of the new valve and put a line from the output of the new valve to the inout6 of the old valve.

Aaron Z

 

[milan37]

A valve such as 2 Spool 25 GPM Prince RD522CCAA5A4B1 Valve | Directional Control Valves | Hydraulic Valves | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com would work
You would take the line from the pump off of your current valve, put it onto the input of the new valve and put a line from the output of the new valve to the inout6 of the old valve.

Aaron Z

Thanks. Would something like this work:
1 Spool 3 GPM Prince RD512CA5A4B1 Valve | Directional Control Valves | Hydraulic Valves | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

And if I didn't want to plumb into the loader supply, couldn't I take the same approach with the 3pt lines?

 

[aczlan]

Re: New Member w/ 2500a & some questions

Thanks. Would something like this work:
1 Spool 3 GPM Prince RD512CA5A4B1 Valve | Directional Control Valves | Hydraulic Valves | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com

And if I didn't want to plumb into the loader supply, couldn't I take the same approach with the 3pt lines?

I would probably use something like this valve instead: 1 Spool 2 GPM Prince RD-2575-T3-ESA1 SA Valve | Directional Control Valves | Hydraulic Valves | Hydraulics | www.surpluscenter.com
The reason being, you have 17 to 20 GPM of hydraulic flow off of the loader pump. If you use a 30 GPM valve, you limit the amount of feathering you can do (when you want to open the valve just a little bit) versus using a valve that is closer to the flow of your pump.
By the same token, if you're going to put it on the three point pump, you will probably want something that's more along the lines of 8 GPM rather than 20 GPM.
if you are going to go to the hassle of adding rear remotes, I would highly recommend adding to or at least valves enough for two. One is never enough

Aaron Z

 

[milan37]

Re: New Member w/ 2500a & some questions

I will definitely take your advice and plan for two.

My thinking with the 3pt pump is that the tractor was originally designed to run remotes off of that pump so there must be a way to do it with aftermarket valves, and it wouldn't mean hoses running along the floorboards from the loader valve.

Here's a dumb question: The "work ports" are what the remotes would connect to, right? Two work ports for each remote, right?

 

[aczlan]

Re: New Member w/ 2500a & some questions

I will definitely take your advice and plan for two.

My thinking with the 3pt pump is that the tractor was originally designed to run remotes off of that pump so there must be a way to do it with aftermarket valves, and it wouldn't mean hoses running along the floorboards from the loader valve.

Yes, for many tractors there is such a valve or adapter to tie in a valve, the problem would be that the valves or adapters to do that are often $300-600 for the valves, or $100-300 for just the adapter (before you get to the valve, or the lines from the valve to the quick connects).

Here's a dumb question: The "work ports" are what the remotes would connect to, right? Two work ports for each remote, right?

Yes, two work ports for each set of remotes.

Aaron Z