Egon
Epic Contributor
No easy ways to fix hydraulic pressure system leaks. Just follow accepted procedures.
Will JB Weld fix pinhole leak in hydraulics?
- Thread starter Richard
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Fallon
Super Member
I recomend not looking for pictures of hydraulic injection injuries unless you want nightmares. Gangrene sets in super quick. It may look like a squirt gun, but that tiny spray will take off fingers or give gunshot quality wounds if its pressurized to normal hydraulic pressures.
radios1
Elite Member
in any case, if the leak is due to rust, it's much better to replace the tank, else it'll just blow out another rust spot..
WranglerX
Super Member
JB Weld is not going to cut it in pressure applications....
Brazing leak would be intermediate fix, replacing tank would be best fix....
Dale
Brazing leak would be intermediate fix, replacing tank would be best fix....
Dale
OP
Richard
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Replacing the tank isn't an option as the tank is an integral part of the construction. There is a tank on each section of this thing (see drawing above)
Right at the hinges is where a tank resides on both sides of the hinge.
No.... I think this is one of those, do what you can to (correctly) fix it and beyond that.... live with it and beyond that.... shop for new mower.
Hmmmm.... has me wondering if I could swap out hydro motors and install shafts to simply convert it to a shaft drive.
Probably a bigger task than I realize.
Right at the hinges is where a tank resides on both sides of the hinge.
No.... I think this is one of those, do what you can to (correctly) fix it and beyond that.... live with it and beyond that.... shop for new mower.
Hmmmm.... has me wondering if I could swap out hydro motors and install shafts to simply convert it to a shaft drive.
Probably a bigger task than I realize.
OP
Richard
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I would not be surprised if it's rust induced. When I bought this unit (used) the farmer left it out in his fields and I'm not sure he ever cleaned it off as there was stuff (like grass or moss) growing on the flat deck.
I've not yet found the actual hole. Walked dog out there and took a stick to poke around.... can't find it. I need to take a probe/needle out there.
I've not yet found the actual hole. Walked dog out there and took a stick to poke around.... can't find it. I need to take a probe/needle out there.
k0ua
Epic Contributor
I suggest you do google hydraulic leak injuries. Yes they are gruesome, but you need to know what will happen if you mess up. Here... take a look.
hydraulic leak injuries - - Image Search Results
LouNY
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Enough of the fear mongering, that is not a high pressure part of the system it is the return path for the oil to the supply tank for the pump suction.
What I would do is start the machine up and walk around it till you can locate the leak, Once it's located then proceed with a repair.
My first choice would be a self tapping screw with a rubber washer.
What I would do is start the machine up and walk around it till you can locate the leak, Once it's located then proceed with a repair.
My first choice would be a self tapping screw with a rubber washer.
radios1
Elite Member
I see in the manual the reservoir weldments have part numbers, so it seems they can be ordered and replaced..
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Richard
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To replace this as best I can tell, would mean the machine has to be severed from it. I suppose someone can do that, I can't.
Now, it DID cross my mind that another idea (if these are indeed rusting thin and create ongoing issues) another thing that I could maybe do is buy some square stock or, whatever the (roughly) 4x6 tubes might be called.... have my neighbor (fabricator) turn them into replacement tubes but, attach them to the TOP of the machine and simply bypass the potentially rusted ones.
There are reasons I do NOT want to buy a mower if I can help it....again, this is to cut the farm that belongs in part to us but also belongs to 11 other people so I don't want to fork out the cash to buy an entire replacement unit (they won't) especially after I've bought the tractor AND this unit.
Back on point.... the idea of fabricating another cooling chamber is interesting but, it would have to be mounted to machine so I could raise wings and it would be out of way.
Regarding high pressure/low pressure..... the way "I" see it is, the high pressure oil leaves the main pump, goes to the 1st blade pump, leaves there to one tank, leaves there to 2nd blade pump, back to another cooling tank, then to third blade pump, then another cooling tank.
So the point being, I THINK that it's ALL under pressure until it gets back to the main holding tank (the one sitting ON the mower that holds the filters and breather cap.
Now, it DID cross my mind that another idea (if these are indeed rusting thin and create ongoing issues) another thing that I could maybe do is buy some square stock or, whatever the (roughly) 4x6 tubes might be called.... have my neighbor (fabricator) turn them into replacement tubes but, attach them to the TOP of the machine and simply bypass the potentially rusted ones.
There are reasons I do NOT want to buy a mower if I can help it....again, this is to cut the farm that belongs in part to us but also belongs to 11 other people so I don't want to fork out the cash to buy an entire replacement unit (they won't) especially after I've bought the tractor AND this unit.
Back on point.... the idea of fabricating another cooling chamber is interesting but, it would have to be mounted to machine so I could raise wings and it would be out of way.
Regarding high pressure/low pressure..... the way "I" see it is, the high pressure oil leaves the main pump, goes to the 1st blade pump, leaves there to one tank, leaves there to 2nd blade pump, back to another cooling tank, then to third blade pump, then another cooling tank.
So the point being, I THINK that it's ALL under pressure until it gets back to the main holding tank (the one sitting ON the mower that holds the filters and breather cap.