Land Plane/Land Leveler Decisions, Decisions

[MtnViewRanch]

I don't know what you mean by "position control". I have TNT, use it all the time when working the road.

Units I'm looking at range in weight: 635, 700, 790 and 825 lbs. The first two are 7' and 8' non-scarifiers, the latter two are 7' and 8' with scarifiers.

The parts of the road I normally work on are what I call the "mudholes". There are five on them on my road; there used to be a sixth, but heavy reconturing and a load each of #4 and #67 gravel fixed that. This is where the road that is flat, doesn't have enough rock - or the right kind of rock. When it gets wet, people drive on it and make a track. The next person drives right in the same track. Before you know it, it's a bathtub, then a pothole.

I've been slowly improving the road, specifically the drainage. My EA grader blade with it's ability to really reach out on the side of the road where I can't drive, has been a huge help.

Thanks,

Position control is your 3pt hitch lever.

For your application, I recommend going with the 7 footer with the scarifiers.

Just my :2cents:

 

[oosik]

I have a mile long driveway. It's surface is a combination of sand, silt, volcanic ash & gravel. Heavy stone ballast is down about 8". After the spring rains - it turns to concrete. I have a Land Pride LPGS - GS2584 - 84" & 720#. See picture #1 & #4 in Brian's post #3. My driveway is NOTHING like that. Three days ago I went down with the LPGS to "straighten out" a 150 foot section of the driveway. It becomes soggy & muddy in the spring. Drainage is down onto the driveway and can not be corrected. Such is life.

This section had finally dried out. Dry on top - still damp down an inch or so. Dropped the scarifiers about 1 1/2" below the bottom of the unit ( below the two following blades ). Two passes on each side. This section is now smooth as a babies butt.

I also have a VERY HD rear blade. Rhino 950 - 8' & 1010#. I've had it five years now and am still learning. It's the short coupling between the blade and tractor that makes it so difficult to control. However - this rear blade it great for ditching the driveway - snow removal - creating new trails on the property. One of these day I may become adequate in the use of the rear blade to grade the driveway.

Until that time - I will use the LPGS w/scarifiers or my roll over box blade w/scarifiers.

 

[i7win7]

What is that? I looked up "AgriTek" and found nothing on any tractor implements.

Thanks,

Driveway Scrapers - Agritek Industries Inc.

 

[CADplans]

A rear grader blade pulls a WHOLE LOT easier than a landplane,,

I hooked my 7 foot, single blade landplane to my 41HP JD,,
That tractor could practically do nothing,,

Get a 6 foot one, and get rippers, if you ever plan to use it on a dry driveway,,,

 

[FTG-05]

A rear grader blade pulls a WHOLE LOT easier than a landplane,,

I hooked my 7 foot, single blade landplane to my 41HP JD,,
That tractor could practically do nothing,,

Get a 6 foot one, and get rippers, if you ever plan to use it on a dry driveway,,,

Which tractor did you pull it with.

I wouldn't spend $1 to buy a 6' land plane (unless I could flip it for cash). It would be virtually worthless to me.

 

[CADplans]

Which tractor did you pull it with.

I wouldn't spend $1 to buy a 6' land plane (unless I could flip it for cash). It would be virtually worthless to me.

I pull it with my IH 584,,, the landplane was the first attachment that I have ever owned in 20 years that taxed the 584's capabilities,,

Here is a pic of the landplane when it was 1/2 done,,

 

[K5lwq]

In the winter my gravel gets pushed towards the ditches. I bought the agritek brand to recollect the gravel and move towards the center. I plan to get a hydraulic top link to properly use this implement. Otherwise I would use what everyone else uses (conventional style of land plane.

Interesting design. This video looks like the unit is a little light for some situations. Do you think it is on the light side?

Agritek 3pt Driveway Scraper - YouTube

 

[i7win7]

Hard to dial in the correct top link setting. The front V or the rear V is doing most of the work. I think a hydraulic top link would let me adjust it "on the fly". A box blade wider than the tractor, gravel is lost to drainage ditches. I also have Hoelscher rolling box blade.
Hoelscher Commercial Products - RB Scraper
Changing lift position determines if it's grading, transporting or spreading. It can't be lifted off the ground and next to impossible to back up on a hill.

Fun to P.O. neighbors during "roller season" and they are stuck with turf tires on lawn tractor.

 

[oosik]

Five years ago I bought a FitRite hydraulic top link. Able to make adjustments "on the go". A lot easier when changing and attaching alternate implements.
i7win7 - THAT is a very fine implement. I do believe a hydraulic top link would help a lot. Where did you ever come by that RB Scraper?

 

[sequoyah101]

I have a 7' maintainer / land plane with cutting edges in two rows, a 10' three way blade, a 14' land plane I built and just bought a 12' Industrias Americas tilting "Fresno" (pulled box blade essentially). I over did the Fresno. Tractor handles it with no problem but it is really too big for tight places though it will work great for leveling when I rebuild pastures which is what I bought it for. I had to try it on the drive way of course. It tilts so I wanted to try some crown, did really well except for being too wide. Other than being too wide it does a better job than the other two pieces of equipment mentioned. They are very functional, you can move a lot of dirt with one if you want to, you can tilt them, they leave a very smooth pathway, you can cut out ruts and other divots with them and move the material, they are even made in small versions, heck of a lot better than fighting the bobbing up and down of three point stuff just set it and drive.

I'm going to add tail wheels to both the maintainer and three-way blade and add side boards to the blade. They will be different machines with the tail wheels. If you do that on a drawn piece of equipment put the wheels as close behind the cutting edge as you can get them.

Make a hydraulic tail wheel for your 8' blade, some fold down side boards and get a tooth cutting edge and bolt it on if you think you need some more aggressive cutting edge instead of scarifiers. I've maintained a lot of gravel road without ever ripping it. Cut it deep and pull to the center then strike off the top.