Buying a CUT, I think I have narrowed down some choices

[WillardinMaine]

Hi all, this is probably a very common question here. I have been reading through the forums, and there is a lot to digest.

I would like a 澱ig 25hp tractor as it avoids the tier IV combustion measures of the larger Diesel engines.

There is a 電ealer selling cheap TYM T264 tractors. I like the engine and the cost/value can not be beat. However, I have ruled them out as the seller is not someone I want servicing the tractor and I am concerned about the long term parts availability.

So my two choices are the LS MT225E and the Kioti CK 2610/Bobcat CT2025. There is one LS Dealer and three Kioti/Bobcat dealers all roughly 70 miles distant. All have good reputations. I do have a Deere and a Kubota dealer 35 miles away with good reputations. At least initially bypassing Deere and Kubota to save on money. I can do my own routine maintenance and have a truck and trailer capable of hauling the tractor. We would likely be looking at the shuttle shift on the LS to save money and not sure about the Kioti/Bobcat as mechanical vs hydrostatic drive. We have driven a mechanical drive tractor. Thoughts on these two? Drives?

We have been borrowing family machines or paying for work for a while and would like to have our own to use.

Uses:
About 4 acres of field on relatively level ground to bush hog.
Clearing and moving downed trees. This has become an increasing use over the years as we have many poplar trees reaching their life expectancy coming down needing to be cleaned up.
First of season rototilling and breakup of over winter cover crop and. End of season rototilling. Garden is probably half acre in size or a bit better. We have a troybilt that we use once the ground has been turned.
Between our driveway and SIL next door probably 600 feet or so of crushed stone. Both drives have a good bed, but do need some periodic grading and stone work.
We have woods roads behind the house I have been maintaining with a chainsaw, but would like to develop further.


I am assuming I can get by with the smaller engine recognizing I will work slower and maybe need to be a bit smarter.

We get 40-60 inches of snow a winter and a relative plows for us. Would be nice to switch to doing it ourselves, but concerned the occasional use in Winter may not be good for tractor. On the Maine Coast so snow can sometimes be heavy. Since we do not plan to buy a cab would prefer a plow blade to blowing snow. Thoughts?

Don稚 see adding a backhoe due to cost and no perceived need. A chipper and a log splitter are potential implements in the future, but would also shop gas powered independent units depending on price. A winch could definitely have its uses. Besides a FEL a bush hog is a must and a rototiller follows closely behind, but may be delayed to spread costs out. I have seen mention it is best to add remote hydraulic controls at time of purchase. When borrowing family tractors we have not used and not sure if we need them. Thoughts?

Since the FEL will be used a good amount I think I want loaded tires and a weight box-yes? Build your own?

I have been watching craigslist and FB for used tractors for a while now. Good ones pop up once and a while and are quickly snatched up. I may still end up going this way, but my thinking is the price discount is not enough to overcome knowing how the tractor was treated from new and the value of the warranty. I have read always buy bigger, but hoping this will be a forever tractor for us. The needs will not grow.

Thanks everyone.

 

[smartascii]

One difference to keep in mind with the LS vs the Kioti is that the Kiotis have a live PTO, which means that the clutch controls its operation. On the gear tractors, a halfway press of the clutch is required to change gears without stopping the PTO. The LS has an independent PTO, meaning that the switch on the dash turns it on and off, and the clutch position has no impact on it. One or the other may be better for you, but I know that people have some pretty strong opinions about this.

 

[WillardinMaine]

Thanks I saw that difference in the specs and I will ask sales opinions when I go. The LS seems simpler to use on the face of it. Will research more.

 

[Roadworthy]

My last tractor had a conventional gear transmission. My new tractor is HST. It's a nice change mowing being able to set the engine to PTO speed and controlling ground speed separately. It also makes moving dirt and working the FEL much smoother. The HST may be more expensive but in my case I feel it was a good choice. I also went with 4WD this time and that was a plus.

 

[Cruiserdog]

Either would work fine. I’d also recommend you take a look at Mahindra and Branson/McCormick X1 if there’s a decent dealer nearby. Good solid tractor at a reasonable price. Green and Big Orange make good stuff but those colors are $$$. Shop carefully, get what suits you& your needs. If you think you’ll want rear remotes get them up front and roll em into the deal.

 

[MaineGuy1]

If you are getting a tractor that size I for sure would go HST. Yes, load those back tires. Those tractors may be small but the work you can do with the FEL is impressive, not having your tires loaded could limit the amount of work you do. I would make sure to have the dealer install an engine block heater, much easier starts in the cold Maine weather.

 

[Bill Groom]

Since you mention downed trees and FEL use, price having the 3rd function included if buying new. That allows for hydraulic swing of snow blade, use of a grapple, and other hydraulic needs up front. I would suggest a heavy duty box blade for counter weight rather than a dedicated weight box, look for 100-120 lbs per foot of width. Many uses for a good box blade. This class of tractor uses 60-66" implements quite effectively.

 

[i7win7]

If JD and Kubota are closer, pick one of them. Dealer satisfaction just as important as tractor satisfaction. SSQA on loader gives you wider selection of attachments - any local dealer or mail order. 3rd function valve and 2 or 3 rear remotes sounds high until you research top and tilt 3pt (can be added later). The smallest offerings are commercial quality lawn mowers, they can do quite alot of work. I have BX2370, B2650 and 70's era ford 4000. Won't give up BX easy to climb on and off but, if I had a do over would go B or the LX replacement.

 

[jeff9366]

WillardinMaine

I have seen mention it is best to add remote hydraulic controls at time of purchase. When borrowing family tractors we have not used rear hydraulic remotes. Not sure we need them. Thoughts?

For 600' of road maintenance rear hydraulic ports are nice but certainly not necessary. Instead, put the money into a heavy Box Blade. Light Box Blades require more adjustment than heavy Box Blades, which cut/penetrate deeper because of greater weight per unit of width.

Since the FEL will be used a good amount I think I want loaded tires and a weight box-yes? Build your own?

Weight boxes are primarily for subcompact garage stored tractors, where space is at a premium and there is no intention of using Three Point Hitch implements. Some owners of 6,000 pound tractors who want tractor to serve occasionally as a Fork Lift for one ton laden pallets, mount 1,200 pound weight boxes to minimize Loader-Tractor-Counterbalance length, improving maneuverability as a Fork Lift. Almost all compact tractors use TPH implements as counterbalance with the two most popular the Box Blade and Roto-Tiller.

Consider your garden. Minimizing soil compaction should be a primary garden goal.

With only ~~25-horsepower traction over dirt will not be a big issue. I would inflate tires with air only and carry a heavy Box Blade as FEL counterbalance. Had you 35 to 40-horsepower on same chassis I would suggest loaded rear tires + Box Blade.

For snow work with a front snowplow, carry the Box Blade again. You will likely need steel tire chains in coastal Maine.
Consider a plow for your truck, rather than tractor. Truck = dry operator, heat, good lights.

The tractors you are considering are fine, except quite limited for powering a 60" Rotary Cutter. If you only (ONLY!) plan to cut moderate length dry grass, no brush, a 60" / 450-pound light duty Rotary Cutter will suffice. If you need to cut brush you need more than 25-horsepower.

Light duty - grass only - 450 pounds

Medium duty - grass and brush to 1-1/2" - 650 pounds


We have woods roads behind the house I have been maintaining with a chainsaw, but would like to develop further.

Heavy duty - brush to 2", occasional 2-1/2" - 1,000 pounds

 

[dodge man]

One question is what is your budget. I personally would look at Kubota and Deere also.