Diesel Fume Odor

   / Diesel Fume Odor
  • Thread Starter
#61  
5030 said:
I did a lengthy explanation of the procedure for cleaning the roof mount ac unit on a Kubota tractor on OTT. I'm not going to post it on here again. I suggest you cruise over to OTT and search the forum for it. It's pretty involved and like I said, you tweak the roof mount ac unit and it leaks you have a huge and expensive problem.

I clean mine every 2 years and a little hint. run the unit on recirc (vent door closed as much as possible). On all the roof mount units, a certain amount of non filtered dusty air gets into the unit no matter what you do and clogs the heat exchanger eventually.

Consider yourself lucky you don't have a newer under the seat unit. getting to them is even more involved and they get munged up as well.
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5030,

I thought I read your post for the removal of the roof without dropping the headliner/inside roof on a B3000/B3030, but I tried to find it again and had no luck.

I searched OTT but couldn't find it.

Any chance you can give me a link, or tell me what the post heading was?

Thank You for your help.
 
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   / Diesel Fume Odor
  • Thread Starter
#63  
Fallon said:
Likely to not be that relevant on the smaller machines depending on how different the cabs are, but here it is anyway...

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/customization/376458-let-there-light-l4060-light.html mentions how I did it on my 60 series Grand. You remove the roof outside not the head liner & it's pretty easy.
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Fallon.... Thanks a lot for the link. The posts give a lot of great info.

On my B3000, you can't get to the bolts that secure the outer roof without getting the inner headline/inner roof out of the way.

That's what had me confused..... you can't even see any of the bolts on the sides of the cab that hold the outer roof on because they are underneath the inner roof.

To add to the problem, the Shop Manual only indicated 4 bolts.... 2 in front and two in back.

You can plainly see, and get to, the front and rear bolts, but that's all.

Now I have to decide if I want the dealer to try to repair the Huck Rivet and the small tear where it went, or just leave things along.

And..... he would have to pull the roof off to do any repairs...... if he has to pull the roof off... should I just let him check the HX in the Roof?

Decisions.... Decisions?

I don't relish the idea of spending money unnecessarily, but if it needs to be done..... I may go for it.
 
   / Diesel Fume Odor
  • Thread Starter
#64  
The dealer picked up my B3000 yesterday and called me today.

I need a bearing and seal in my front left. $31 in parts and 2 hours of labor.

I asked them to have the Tech remove the roof and clean the evaporator and HX, and then check the refrigerant level.

And since he had to remove the roof, I asked him to fix the pulled out Huck fastener area.

He said all he could do was use some "glue" and it would not hold. His best suggestion was to buy a new roof for $1,500.

Ya.... that isn't happening...... especially when 5030 said it CAN be repaired with some fiberglass.

I have no idea how to do the fiberglass repair on this problem, so if you all can give me some guidance, I may try the repair myself.

Thanks Everyone.
 
   / Diesel Fume Odor #65  
TimP said:
He said all he could do was use some "glue" and it would not hold. His best suggestion was to buy a new roof for $1,500.

Ya.... that isn't happening...... especially when 5030 said it CAN be repaired with some fiberglass.

I have no idea how to do the fiberglass repair on this problem, so if you all can give me some guidance, I may try the repair myself.

Thanks Everyone.
Click to expand...

Anything can be repaired. Photos if you have them. If your lid is fiberglass, it is going to be an easy repair.
My Kubota canopy looks to be blow-molded polypropylene; I doubt that polyester fiberglass resin would stick. But epoxy resin and glass cloth can always make a beautiful form-fitting support patch which will harden and can be drilled and then fastened in place. That's how I would do mine.

Alternatively someone here may know of a glue that wlll work for your lid. you may have to try several types of glues in an inconspicuous place to find one that will work with your top material, maybe even go to a commercial adhesive. But I'll bet there is one.
rScotty
 
   / Diesel Fume Odor
  • Thread Starter
#66  
rScotty said:
Anything can be repaired. Photos if you have them. If your lid is fiberglass, it is going to be an easy repair.
My Kubota canopy looks to be blow-molded polypropylene; I doubt that polyester fiberglass resin would stick. But epoxy resin and glass cloth can always make a beautiful form-fitting support patch which will harden and can be drilled and then fastened in place. That's how I would do mine.

Alternatively someone here may know of a glue that wlll work for your lid. you may have to try several types of glues in an inconspicuous place to find one that will work with your top material, maybe even go to a commercial adhesive. But I'll bet there is one.
rScotty
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Hi rScoty.

My roof is also that poly plastic material... not fiberglass, so that does make things more difficult.

I'll have to start searching for something that will bond to the plastic. It also has to hold the fastener in place well enough to take a little torque from the bolt.

When I had the roof off I should have taken some pics, but didn't.

If I can find something that will bond and hold well with some strength, maybe I can just secure the Huck style fastener in place.mine.

I know 5030 said he used fiberglass patch, but his roof may be fiberglass and not plastic (poly) like mine.

Thanks.
 
   / Diesel Fume Odor #67  
If the roof comes off as a single piece you could find an automotive body shop that would do a better repair than you are likely to get any other way.
 
   / Diesel Fume Odor
  • Thread Starter
#68  
JWR said:
If the roof comes off as a single piece you could find an automotive body shop that would do a better repair than you are likely to get any other way.
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Hi JWR,

Yes, the roof is one complete piece. Not too heavy, just awkward.
 
   / Diesel Fume Odor #69  
And I also bet that the body shop will do it for a heck of a lot less than $1500.
 
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