New shop build, beginning stages with questions

[EddieWalker]

With all those tools, I'm looking forward to seeing them all set up too!!!!

 

[GSVette]

As am I.

I am slowly translating equipment from my current residence’s shop to the shop we built n our retirement property as well as consolidating and organizing all of the tools and such I inherited from my father. I’ve duplicates and triplicates of many hand, power and shop tools-going to be a **** of a garage sale here in a year or two.

I’ve reorganized the new shop at least three times now and will likely do it a couple of more times as we relocate more stuff (and I purchase more tools!!).

Looking forward to seeing how you arrange things-particularly around a lift. I’ve my eye on a four post that I can use for both car storage and maintenance. I want to get my shop arranged so that I can somewhat segregate metal work and wood work ( without building interior walls).

 

[ovrszd]

The newer four post lifts can be portable. If I were spending serious money on a four post, it would be that style for sure.

 

[GSVette]

The newer four post lifts can be portable. If I were spending serious money on a four post, it would be that style for sure.

That’s the type I’m looking at- I want to be able to roll into the open when I want to do maintenance or rebuilds and then put it to the side or back of the shop when I’m storing my two classics

 

[ovrszd]

Yep...

 

[Doug62]

That痴 the type I知 looking at- I want to be able to roll into the open when I want to do maintenance or rebuilds and then put it to the side or back of the shop when I知 storing my two classics

I use a Direct Lift brand 4 post lift. Pro Park is the model. I recommend going with the heaviest and tallest your budget will allow. Mine is portable but you need two people to steer it where you want it. The wheels don't stay on. They pin on and use the weight of the cross bars to lift the 4 posts off the ground. You have to remove them to get the lift to go all the way down.

 

[LD1]

the first loop that runs along the outside then in front of your over head doors(believe color is purple) is going to get its butt kicked on temp lose. There is or I have done different ways of getting around it. if you haven't put it down yet put it out to the pex supplier. If you change the spacing closer on the outside further apart on the inside. I have done that.

There is just no good way to stop the thermal bridging on the slab by your over head doors.

If you baulk a changing the spacing you can correct it at the manifold. They make away to control the temp in each loop and then you run a variable displacement pump.

This is the best advice I have seen if its not too late. (didnt have time to read EVERYTHING and get caught up.)


Their should be ALOT of loops tight together around the perimeter. Paying attention to what is supply and what is return.

Then start progressively spacing loops farther apart as you get to the middle of the building.

Their is alot of science that goes into loop design. And it can make or break you in terms of efficiency an even usability.

AS far as the lift goes...a friends that we just did and laid out for loops......we drove a short piece of rebar right in the center of the 2' area designated for loops. set if just a few inches below grade so it can be found easily with a metal detector. Also took meticulous measurements. Of course the metal detector wont work with mesh or rebar in the floor

 

[rangerfredbob]

I haven't gotten that far yet, so I will take that into consideration. Haven't gotten rebar in yet, and haven't talked to an electrician yet to get an idea of what I need to do there... Soon, apparently they're busy lately... I'm hoping to redo the drawing for the PEX this weekend, The picture is just the first go around and I don't have the software figured out yet, I don't think I added the doors until after I told it to put in the loops, we'll see.

The only thing I got done recently is the poly across the top of the one wall, hopefully get the corner trim up this weekend and get the doors closer to the building since they're the only parts left to be installed.

 

[rangerfredbob]

Finally ordered the PEX tonight

I have a general idea where I need to put in the power for what I want, I'll get things knocked out this weekend. My next question is on how deep of trench and what size conduit. I just did a little searching and I think the trench needs to be 18" deep and 2" conduit. The ground is near liquid right now so I can't really trench, but I need to get an idea of what to do... I've been trying to get an electrician but that isn't working out as easy as it sounds.

Talked to the concrete guy today and he's getting antzy to get the rebar tied up, hoping to get the vapor barrier down this weekend. Should hopefully get going soon.

I did get the corner trim up a couple weeks ago except the one piece that would cover where I'm running the extension cord into the building.

 

[truckdiagnostics]

insulation then vapor barrier. then pex then rebar. putting vapor barrier down right on top of the gravel is going to poke holes in it. Put the insulation down tape the seams. this will protect the vapor barrier. then your vapor barrier. then pex, your want that at the bottom of your slab, and away from the rebar. then the rebar on stands! tied.