getting better snow traction with R1 tires

[nfisheremti]

I recently purchased an L3800 it came with R1 tires. I primarily use this tractor for snow removal. I have pretty close to ZERO snow traction. Since I just bought the thing, I can't afford the $2K or so to upgrade to R14s or even more $$$ to go to Nokians. How do I get better traction? The tires are not filled, I've put 3 sets of tractor weights (190 ish LBS/Wheel), and I still have close to nothing for traction. I'm thinking about grooving/siping, but I haven't seen any info on doing this on R1s (lots on R4s though). Has any one done this? What about tire pressures? How much can a lower the pressure, and not worry about popping beads? Does airing down even help with R1s in the snow? Any other thoughts or advice?

Thanks,
N

 

[PILOON]

Chains?

 

[nybirdman]

That's odd,no tires will have traction on "ice" with-out chains;snow shouldn't be a problem.I would load the rear tires first and ballast the back.Assume it's 4WD(real easy to chain the fronts,just lift with the loader).

 

[old and tired]

Studs?

Tractor Tire Studs | Grip Studs® Screw-In Tire Studs | Traction in Ice, Snow and Dirt | Tractor Tire

 

[airbiscuit]

Are you talking about traction on snow or ice. Regarding winter traction,, I've had:

R4s - Racing slicks
Turf - Better than I expected
R1s - By far the best

4wd and differential lock should help when needed. If that's not enough a good set of chains will make a difference

 

[nfisheremti]

i should have clarified. chains are not an option. ice is not really my issue. i am in the mountains of utah. oodles of light fluffy powder. i spend one to 2 hrs each snowy morning before work clearing several dozen driveways. i need ground speed, and traction. i see chains working against that. maybe i'm wrong, but IMO 15mph is too slow already. i was hoping that i might still hit max speed (conditions depending) and not spend 2-3 hours clearing in the morning. has anyone had any experience with grooves and/or sipes on R1s? That's really what i'm interested in learning about.

Thanks

Edit: These are high-end residential driveways. Avoiding damage is a must.

 

[airbiscuit]

Can you hang more weight on the back? What is your set up?
Loader?
Front or rear snowblower?

Are you spinning the tires, or concerned about control at 15mph?

 

[nfisheremti]

I have a bucket up front, and a 60" farmking snowblower on the back (~450lbs). Most driveways around here are very steep. Backing up hill pushing the snowblower, is often a complete waste of time. I can go up forward, then drag back, but i'm worried about the damage i'm doing with the bucket. Other driveways I'm ***** end in, and diff lock and a little bit of side slipping usually gets me out. If it doesn't i have to try a multi point turn, and push myself out with the bucket, and hope i'm not beating up the driveway too much. I have a damage waiver and insurance, but I'd still hate to damage driveways I'd lose customers, and reputation (plus a lot of these guys are better lawyers than I can afford). Better traction at the front is most important, but all around would be best.

Thanks

 

[CobyRupert]

People here claim turfs are best for snow. I always assumed they mean best for a cleared snow path? Paved? Maybe I’m wrong, but I’d want R1’s over turfs if I had to drive across a snow covered field. What are you driving in?
When you lower the snowblower, you don’t really have 450 lbs of ballast anymore. Loaded tires and as much weight as possible may help. Chains sure would... if you could.

 

[airbiscuit]

Not to change the subject, but have you ever considered a Rear Pull snowblower? What kind of snow depths are you talking about?

Here is my 68" Meteor Rear Pull (671 lbs) 60" is 495 lbs