Top Link ?

[MESSMAKER]

Thinking about hydraulic top link. I am getting mixed answers. Do I need a check valve? I see them sold both ways. What is the quick coupler I need on the hoses. I think it is a 1/2 inch pioneer male. It is going on a Kioti 4710SE.

 

[SylvainG]

A check valve where, on the tank line?

My Kioti LK30 has 1/2" pioneer on the back for the backhoe and pioneer 3/8 on the FEL.

I'm also putting an hydraulic top-link cylinder and I wasn't going to put any check valve. It will be connected where the snow blower chute valve connects to. Mind you, the dealer did a poor job with its setup but I don't think a check valve would have made any difference.

 

[MESSMAKER]

A check valve where, on the tank line?

My Kioti LK30 has 1/2" pioneer on the back for the backhoe and pioneer 3/8 on the FEL.

I'm also putting an hydraulic top-link cylinder and I wasn't going to put any check valve. It will be connected where the snow blower chute valve connects to. Mind you, the dealer did a poor job with its setup but I don't think a check valve would have made any difference.

Some of the top links have a valve on them to prevent bleed off. That, at least, is what I am hearing.

 

[TMGT]

Some of the top links have a valve on them to prevent bleed off. That, at least, is what I am hearing.

I have a pilot operated check valve on my top link, I prefer it as it will hold its position with no leakdown.
If you want to be able to use float on the top link and have a valve with float function to operate it, then don't get the check valve as it will prevent the float function from working.

If you don't have float for the remote you're using then a check valve won't be an issue.

 

[SylvainG]

Where do you put it? Obviously not on the work port since it would prevent the rod from either going it or out.

 

[TMGT]

Where do you put it? Obviously not on the work port since it would prevent the rod from either going it or out.

Its actually a double pilot operated lock valve, but some people just refer to them as check valves.

A lot of the top link cylinders have them already mounted and they are pilot operated.

Once a little pressure us applied from the work ports from the control side, usually a couple hundred psi, the lock valve will open the work ports until the pressure on the control side of the work ports drops below the lock valves opening pressure.
The pressure on the cylinder side of the work ports has no effect on the lock valves operation.

 

[HayDR]

 

[TMGT]

This is the lock valve on an AMA cylinder, I have them on both my tractors.

 

[workinonit]

Mine doesn't have one and it functions perfectly. It doesn't leak down. If you have one that leaks down you have something wrong.

 

[Tinhack]

If you use ground engaging implements, you could blow a hose. The locks help prevent that by keeping the pressure within the cylinder--Pushing or Pulling.

Also, I have the locks on both T-n-T cylinders. That gives me two more remote pairs I wouldn't otherwise have when I don't need T-n-T. Like for bat wings and adjustable disk drags with lift wheels.

 

[LD1]

Personal preference.

The DPCV will indeed prevent the cylinder from bleeding off....but a good quality cylinder AND VALVE should not have a " noticeable" issue.

IF I leave my 1600# cutter suspended in the air the top link will bleed off (extend) maybe an inch per hour. No issues at all when working the machine.

IF you are relying on the DPCV to prevent blowing hoses with ground engaging equipment.....your cylinder for the toplink is too small.

AS to the couplers....pioneer is just a brand. For most ag stuff.....you want ISO 5675 in 1/2". But there are always exceptions.

 

[bill9068]

I’ve been thinking about a hydraulic top link for my kioti DK5510. Preferably cat 2. Any suggestions on where to get a good top link? Do they come as kits or do I need to buy hoses, couplers 90 elbows separately? I already have 2 sets of rear remotes.

 

[SylvainG]

Mine (Cat 1), came just the top-link with bushings. Had to buy the ORBM-8 NPTF 1/2 elbows, 1/2" hose and 1/2" quick coupler to connect to my remote.

 

[Cycledude]

I have a hydraulic top link without any check valve and it seems to work fine.
The extra hoses are a bit of a pain to deal with but not really that bad.
The weight of a hydraulic top link is a lot more than a standard top link so hooking and unhooking can get a little more tricky, I actually managed to get my finger pinched messing with it last fall, yes a stupid mistake but the same thing happened to a friend about the same time, he lost two fingernails but I only lost one so we were both very lucky it wasn’t worse. I learned a good lesson to be a little more careful .

 

[mikester]

Top link cylinders on sale now at princess auto

https://www.princessauto.com/en/top-link-cylinders/product/PA1000000426?skuId=8699449

Mine doesn't have the check valve - drift doesn't seem to be a problem.

 

[oosik]

My top link is from Fit Rite Hydraulics. I've had/used for eight years now. It does not have any type of check valve. It functions perfectly, never leaks down, has never leaked a drop. About 95% of its use is with my 1050# Rhino rear blade.

If yours leaks down or just plain leaks - time for maintenance.

 

[TMGT]

The lock is definitely more beneficial on a side link as it sees heavier loads, but all valve leak some, nothing to do with maintenence. I prefer the lock as it allows the hyd top l Iink to act like a mechanical one and not move when you don't want it to. The other benefit is it prevents the valve and hoses from seeing any additional loads when doing heavy work.

Personal preference, but I dont see any reason not to have a lock valve, unless you need float.

 

[Tinhack]

IF you are relying on the DPCV to prevent blowing hoses with ground engaging equipment.....your cylinder for the toplink is too small.

Not so at all. A larger cylinder will create MORE hose pressure, not less.

 

[TMGT]

Not so at all. A larger cylinder will create MORE hose pressure, not less.

Annually no, for a given outside force on a cylinder, the larger cylinder will see a lower pressure.
Its the same principle are how a larger cylinder will exert more force then a smaller cylinder at a given pressure, but inverse.

 

[_RaT_]

I have never used a top link with a check valve and have never had a need either. If I needed something in a very rigid and locked position I suppose that it would be beneficial but have never had that kind of implement on the back. Mowers, box blade, Harley rake etc get continual adjust throughout their use. I have never noticed leak down on either the side (tilt) or top link. The amount of force exerted I suspect is quite small compare to that of the loader lift cylinder where I have had minimal leak down as well, even after a couple thousand hours of use. If you have an implement that must be in an absolute position, the check would seem to be a good alternative or keep a solid link in place.