Electrical / romex mess

[Diggin It]

OK, now that sounds like a switch loop. See this example of how I understand what you have. I used yellow in place of white so it would show up.

 

[oldwirepuller]

We have a light on a pole in our driveway. Its in a center circle bordered by pavers. I want to replace the light with a water feature.

I turned power off, removed the light and pole, and found two romex lines. One was still hot (don't ask!) They are about 2 feet below current grade, and about 3 feet below what the new grade will be.

I need to move these lines as the new water feature would be sitting right on top of them. I wish they were long enough to get to an electrical box on the edge of the circle, but they are not nearly long enough. And I still need power out there for the new pump.

I know you are not supposed to put romex in conduit. Nor splice wires and have electric junction boxes underground. But I'm stumped on what else to do?

Any ideas?
View attachment 701068

Call a licensed electrical contractor. Someone has been feeding un-truths. Wires can be spliced underground and romex can be installed in a conduit for physical protection of the wire.

 

[HarryMonkey]

As a retired Journeyman Electrician, I won't make any judgements from reading emails---too easy to make an assumption and find out later it was wrong. What I usually do is to advise people to buy and read "Wiring Simplified" by Richter---I think it's still available at Home Depot and others. If you follow it, you will have a safe and effective electrical installation.
My opinion on UF cable is to not direct bury it or any other around here (middle California) because of Gophers. I have never been called out to repair rodent damage on PVC or other pipe in the ground but have been many times on direct burial cables. The call usually comes in a big wet storm when the chewed cable shorts out due to moisture.
BTW: Yes, when a 120vac load is energized, the return wire in a Romex cable is indeed energized and can bite. Yes, that is from personal experience. And green wires are sometimes hot if the uniformed have been tinkering around in the circuit, yes again.
GCFI's save lives and livestock.

 

[axeman79]

We have a light on a pole in our driveway. Its in a center circle bordered by pavers. I want to replace the light with a water feature.

I turned power off, removed the light and pole, and found two romex lines. One was still hot (don't ask!) They are about 2 feet below current grade, and about 3 feet below what the new grade will be.

I need to move these lines as the new water feature would be sitting right on top of them. I wish they were long enough to get to an electrical box on the edge of the circle, but they are not nearly long enough. And I still need power out there for the new pump.

I know you are not supposed to put romex in conduit. Nor splice wires and have electric junction boxes underground. But I'm stumped on what else to do?

Any ideas?
View attachment 701068

You should not run UF wire through conduit. However, the actual wire without the jacket is likely THWN, which can be in conduit. You could convert to conduit as long as the UF shielding is removed. It would be best to do this is a junction box. I doubt the electrical code prohibits underground splices since devices exist to facilitate that very thing. This more pressing issue is wire size and the intended amperage you intend to draw through it.

 

[fishdrivel]

You are correct. I turned the switch off, saw the light turn off, and thought all was well.

After pulling up the pole and light fixture (and a giant blob of concrete) I saw the 2nd UF cable, which I didn't expect. I mistakenly presumed it used the light circuit as its source, and traveled on to another "downstream" ... something. But .... I was later "jolted" back to reality.

Whatever you decide to do, you need to identify how to turn-off the 2nd wire. Yes it is insulated but there could be a shovel nick in the wire.

I'm convinced you have UF wire
You absolutely can use splice kits. Perform work precisely!
Depth should be: http://www.adamselectric.coop/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/Minimum-Cover-Requirements.pdf
If you have any double -tapped breakers they must be designed for it. MFG label says "2 pole" Easily corrected.

If this were my home, I would rather have direct-bury splices than to have j-boxes sticking up next to where people are driving.
I'd also want a GFCI breaker.

 

[Diggin It]

We seem to be getting an awful lot of uninformed posters here.

 

[civilian]

We seem to be getting an awful lot of uninformed posters here.

Agree. Also sounds like they have not read through all of the posts. I think the OP said around post 44 that he had all figured out and thanked the posters. Jon

 

[plowhog]

We seem to be getting an awful lot of uninformed posters here.

I noticed several brand new members posting. First-ever, or second-ever posts. So I guess my inquiry is good for the forum business !!!

 

[Diggin It]

I noticed several brand new members posting. First-ever, or second-ever posts. So I guess my inquiry is good for the forum business !!!

See the Boss's post in this thread:

It's happening again.

"Some are just verts". Yes, those who cherish the JD brand.

www.tractorbynet.com

Ignore the text in the quote, but click the link to read.

 

[plowhog]

I think the OP said around post 44 that he had all figured out and thanked the posters.

My licensed electrician finally returned my call. He said the described plan is exactly what should be done-- thank you all again for the many replies!!!