The relief valve only senses the hydraulic pressure, not the weight of the load lifted. The 3 point hitch has better leverage, or a larger cylinder, so it can lift more, at the same pressure.
Bruce
Will the CUT let you know you're asking too much?
- Thread starter Haldir00
- Start date
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Bruce
RandyT
Elite Member
Depending on the setup there could be a separate relief valve for the loader than the 3ph. The hydraulic system components from the pump to the loader valve, 3pt valve and rear SCV are all plumbed into series and each component has its own pressure relief valve.
It is good that you are thinking about, and asking these questions before you are tackling your projects, rather than asking about how to recover a tractor on its side.
Some things to keep in mind at all times, but especially when nearing the limits.
Keep the load low. The higher the load, the more leverage it has on your tractor. Small dips and bumps can quickly become disasters.
Make your movements slow. A quick lowering and abrupt stop while still in the air adds a lot of extra force. Conversely, be ready to quickly drop the load to the ground if things are going south.
Keep your loads centered in the bucket. Working one side of the loader really hard has the potential to tweak arms and cylinders.
Check your tire pressures before staring a lot of loader work. With a lot of weight up front you can mess up your tires if they are underinflated and especially if you are doing a lot of tight turning.
Don't forget that you are part of the ballast. I had a load of firewood in the bucket, off center, without a counter weight. It felt squirrelly, but I didn't realize how close I was to the limits. When I tried to get off the tractor with the bucket two feet off the ground, one rear wheel would lift up. I lowered the bucket and haven't made that mistake again.
Doug in SW IA
Some things to keep in mind at all times, but especially when nearing the limits.
Keep the load low. The higher the load, the more leverage it has on your tractor. Small dips and bumps can quickly become disasters.
Make your movements slow. A quick lowering and abrupt stop while still in the air adds a lot of extra force. Conversely, be ready to quickly drop the load to the ground if things are going south.
Keep your loads centered in the bucket. Working one side of the loader really hard has the potential to tweak arms and cylinders.
Check your tire pressures before staring a lot of loader work. With a lot of weight up front you can mess up your tires if they are underinflated and especially if you are doing a lot of tight turning.
Don't forget that you are part of the ballast. I had a load of firewood in the bucket, off center, without a counter weight. It felt squirrelly, but I didn't realize how close I was to the limits. When I tried to get off the tractor with the bucket two feet off the ground, one rear wheel would lift up. I lowered the bucket and haven't made that mistake again.
Doug in SW IA
DK35vince
Super Member
If a clutch can slip before the tractor runs out of power and stalls something is wrong
Egon
Epic Contributor
Too heavy and the load will not lift.
Drawbar pull is too much the engine stalls or the tires slip. In some cases the tractor may rotate backwards around the back axles. This happens quickly and may kill you.
Drawbar pull is too much the engine stalls or the tires slip. In some cases the tractor may rotate backwards around the back axles. This happens quickly and may kill you.
LeoC4
New member
It's possible to bend a loader ram when fully extended in the curl down position and an upward force is applied to the bottom front edge of the bucket.
When the rubber side faces the sky you've done too much.
If you hear a bang or a pop and the tractor stops moving you've done too much.
If you need to turn on 4WD because the rear wheels are spinning you've done too much.
If you hear a bang or a pop and the tractor stops moving you've done too much.
If you need to turn on 4WD because the rear wheels are spinning you've done too much.
WranglerX
Super Member
I have found that when I try to exceed beyond capacities of my SCUT, it simply does not do what I am attempting, generally the hydraulics just refuse to operate and it goes into bypass (pressure relief mode).... At that point I usually back off attempt and look for alternative ... Exception may be trying to lift with FEL and no counter weight ... Only thing I have been really good at doing is in 4WD and low range (HST) I can dig a hole under each wheel and get the silly thing stuck (trying to push heavy objects that refuse to move), and have to use Jeep with winch to rescue it...
Bottom line is just be aware of CUT's capabilities and respect it.... And when using FEL for heavy lifts, use ballast weight...If its a HST transmission and has inboard wet brakes, the less weight on rear tires the less braking power, it can be a rush especially when when going down hill...
Bottom line is just be aware of CUT's capabilities and respect it.... And when using FEL for heavy lifts, use ballast weight...If its a HST transmission and has inboard wet brakes, the less weight on rear tires the less braking power, it can be a rush especially when when going down hill...
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deltatango
Member
Hi @Haldir00 I was a tractor noob too a few years back. I operate a very small tractor (New Holland TC21D) which has its fair share of risks. Its like an ant, because it has just enough power to pick up things that are heavier than it should.
One thing I learned the hard way is waiting for the rear wheels to lift is not the right measure for full. Think of it this way, if you reached 90% full your rear wheels would never lift and you'd think everything was fine. However, in reality you're potentially overloading your front axle but you don't have a means of observing it. I learned this after I blew the seals in my front drive. So I've since learned to balance my load or at least put the heaviest thing I have on the back which for me is my bush hog. This has made loader work much of a joy.
Another thing a local farmer taught me is don't push what you can pull. A tractor is optimally designed for pulling, so if you can put a strap around something and pull it over don't try to push it. When I got my bucket, everything looked like a bucket job... Now if I can put something in the carry all in the back, or just skid it, I'll do that long before loading the bucket because there's much less to worry about. Since I'm not a professional, I try to take the safe way out when I can for myself and the machine.
So it short, the relief valve may save your hydraulics, but under dynamic loads they can't guarantee anything for the safety of your tractor.
One thing I learned the hard way is waiting for the rear wheels to lift is not the right measure for full. Think of it this way, if you reached 90% full your rear wheels would never lift and you'd think everything was fine. However, in reality you're potentially overloading your front axle but you don't have a means of observing it. I learned this after I blew the seals in my front drive. So I've since learned to balance my load or at least put the heaviest thing I have on the back which for me is my bush hog. This has made loader work much of a joy.
Another thing a local farmer taught me is don't push what you can pull. A tractor is optimally designed for pulling, so if you can put a strap around something and pull it over don't try to push it. When I got my bucket, everything looked like a bucket job... Now if I can put something in the carry all in the back, or just skid it, I'll do that long before loading the bucket because there's much less to worry about. Since I'm not a professional, I try to take the safe way out when I can for myself and the machine.
So it short, the relief valve may save your hydraulics, but under dynamic loads they can't guarantee anything for the safety of your tractor.
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