Metal building install- looking for ideas

[Root Cause]

Short version:
I am about to have a large, metal building put on the new property. Funds are not unlimited so thinking a dirt floor is fine for RV, tractor, etc.
Seems like gravel would just cost more and make it difficult to roll a chipper, tiller, or trailer around by hand.
Thoughts, ideas, or tips are appreciated.

Backstory:
I am on a 10° grade and have just cleared about 5500 sq. ft for a 30' x 40' metal building. The grader will cut into the lot so the earth will be hard-packed.
The primary purpose is to store an RV, tractor, and wood splitting tools to feed a water stove.
I will level the lot to include some workspace and a pathway for the tractor to run around it.

 

[WranglerX]

If you are really considering dirt floor, the you should invest in really good drainage around building other wise you may have indoor mud bog in rainy season.... If not concrete, I would consider compacted decomposed granite or same material as used for road base.....

 

[Citydude]

I had concrete poured in my 30x40 after the dirt floor turned into powder in a matter of months.

 

[bcp]

I've been some old shops, long ago, that had dirt floors hard as asphalt, but they've had oil spilled and sprayed on them for decades.

Bruce

 

[Root Cause]

Ok. Was it a lot more costly to add concrete after the build?

 

[Citydude]

I would think it cost more. They used a pump truck instead of wheel borrowing it to the back of the building.

 

[fried1765]

Ok. Was it a lot more costly to add concrete after the build?

Add the concrete after the build, when you feel that you can afford it.
Cost will be higher but not crazy higher.

 

[deezler]

Yeah it's not that much more cost to pour it later. However on a metal building, don't you typically want to fasten the building onto the slab? Otherwise, what is the foundation for the metal building? Just sitting on the ground, anchored into the earth (like a simple carport)?

Second what citydude said, the dirt (if you keep it dry with very good drainage around the building) will turn to powdery dust inside. If you can't afford the concrete, at least plan for it by keeping the floor elevation 4-6" lower to begin with, and lay a few inches of 21a or other small gravel with fines, and compact the hell out of it. Level and compact the dirt before you lay the gravel also.

 

[Zebrafive]

Ok. Was it a lot more costly to add concrete after the build?

After one year I had concrete floor put in my building. The only additional expense was they had to remove dirt equal to the thickness of the concrete. So there was hand work at the edges/posts. I don't remember the extra cost, it was 25+ years ago.
Concrete delivery was no problem the building had end and side doors, the truck had many chutes that were added. It was a front delivery truck.

 

[woody]

funny story about a dirt floor, about 40 years ago I replaced a starter on a slant 6 motor and it still would not crank over so I asked an older wiser guy next door what he thought and he says it has to be the starter and he has an old one in his shop so we go to get it after a while of looking we saw a part of the starter sticking out of the dirt floor under his work bench I got down there with a screw driver for a shovel and dug it up after some air and a wire brush we connected it up and the old starter was still on the car years later when I sold it.