Oil dipstick confusion
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5030
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Usually, not screwed in has been my experience.
That’s what made the most since to me, but I have read to do it both ways
in general, but can’t find an answer specific to Zetor and it makes quite a difference. The engine is smoking blue and hoping it’s just over full, so I am hoping I can find a definitive answer.
Cheers
5030
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Blue smoke when running (and warm) is usually indicative of an injector issue or a head gasket issue, not an overfilled crankcase.
In reality, the difference between a fully seated (screwed in dipstick) and one that isn't is not much in capacity.
In reality, the difference between a fully seated (screwed in dipstick) and one that isn't is not much in capacity.
Captain Dirty
Platinum Member
The only vehicle I have owned with an owner's manual that explicitly said to screw in the dipstick was a 1971 BMW motorcycle.
As a practical matter, most dipsticks have a "full" and "add oil" marks. The distance between the marks is usually equal to or less than the length of the threading. So if you screw it in and the level is not above "full" or if you don't screw it in and the level is above "add", you should be OK
Does your dipstick have only one mark? Your second post says you are burning oil; does that change if you remove oil to the mark when screwed in?
As a practical matter, most dipsticks have a "full" and "add oil" marks. The distance between the marks is usually equal to or less than the length of the threading. So if you screw it in and the level is not above "full" or if you don't screw it in and the level is above "add", you should be OK
Does your dipstick have only one mark? Your second post says you are burning oil; does that change if you remove oil to the mark when screwed in?
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5030
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Add Kohler K series engines and Kawasaki air cooled utility engines to that list. Both are seated on the top, not screwed in.
npalen
Elite Member
It would be helpful for those of us with OCD if the manufacturers would reveal this in the owners manual or, perhaps, a decal. But then, perhaps, they know not either. 
5030
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Gee, my manuals for the ones I own state it clearly, but then one does have to read an owners manual to ascertain that data. Today, most people never bother to read an owners manual. They figure they can obtain that info on the net or just wing it.
Have you ever read in depth, the owners manual that came with your personal vehicle. Bet not. Bet it's tucked away in the glove box or somewhere forgotten about.
Amazing what useful info there is contained in it. It was written by people who know a lot more about your vehicle, or tractor than you think you do.
All my equipment including all my implements has an owners manual weather proof container affixed to them and the manual is inside for quick reference if I need it, which I do regularly.
If people just took the time to read their owners manuals, 90% of their questions are answered therein.
Have you ever read in depth, the owners manual that came with your personal vehicle. Bet not. Bet it's tucked away in the glove box or somewhere forgotten about.
Amazing what useful info there is contained in it. It was written by people who know a lot more about your vehicle, or tractor than you think you do.
All my equipment including all my implements has an owners manual weather proof container affixed to them and the manual is inside for quick reference if I need it, which I do regularly.
If people just took the time to read their owners manuals, 90% of their questions are answered therein.
LouNY
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It does vary equipment to equipment.
What I have done on much equipment is to do an oil and filter change,
letting it drain for several hours. Then adding the called for amount of oil and filter.
Start it up and let it run for a couple of minutes then read the dipstick that will get you very close to danged good,
and for an interesting exercise, check the level every two minutes for about 10 you may be surprised at long long it
has to sit for the level to stabilize.
On some of my engines I have added a second mark for a running level mark.
What I have done on much equipment is to do an oil and filter change,
letting it drain for several hours. Then adding the called for amount of oil and filter.
Start it up and let it run for a couple of minutes then read the dipstick that will get you very close to danged good,
and for an interesting exercise, check the level every two minutes for about 10 you may be surprised at long long it
has to sit for the level to stabilize.
On some of my engines I have added a second mark for a running level mark.
BigBlue1
Veteran Member
As noted, the manual should tell you the proper method for checking oil level. Barring that, follow Lou's advice and try checking both ways. Whichever method shows the oil close to the full line is the right one.