Advise / Opinions to Sell and Buy Welder

[Spike56]

I was amazed at the welder you are contemplating selling, with it only having 8' leads. I have a minimum of 25' on any welder on this property and the grounds are usually shorter than the stinger, simply because if the ground is too short, I can always add a piece of 20' angle iron to carry the ground current. Can't do that with the positive side, so any extra lead I have usually goes onto the stinger side of the welder!
David from jax

Mis-understanding here. I have 8' extension leads = extra length from the ones that came with the machine. Do not recall what the Miller had, but they were too short out of the box, so purchased extra length.

 

[WranglerX]

Then there is this option if the Everlast does not meet you ideals...

Multi-Handler 200 | HobartWelders

Multiprocess capabilities in a lightweight, versatile machine.

www.hobartwelders.com

 

[Lnk]

I have been impressed with my Everlast 200st. Have had zero problems and it does everything I need. Stick and scratch start tig. Dual ac input voltage. I think you may be surprised. Good luck.

 

[Spike56]

Then there is this option if the Everlast does not meet you ideals...

Multi-Handler 200 | HobartWelders

Multiprocess capabilities in a lightweight, versatile machine.

www.hobartwelders.com

DL,
Thanks for the suggestion. This seems a capable model, but well beyond my price range. The link (Hobart) was $1340. The Everlast i-Mig 200 is (at Everlast) $719. That one is the high end of the budget and will be greater than my needs.... I hope. The Hobart is impressive.

 

[Mark @ Everlast]

Thank-you for all who commented. Now I am totally confused. First, I admit, I HAVE NOT DONE MY RESEARCH. The reason I ask for opinions is so I do not have to read through all the mostly advertisements mumbo-jumbo and try to understand. Personally, when I read something such as a "feature" stated by a manufacturer I get a slight shiver up the backside of my neck. I do not recall the exact details, but just for one example, in research for a possible new Zero Turn mower, something like "X209Z10 hydraulic series 10 steering pumps ( I made this up). Ok, so what ? I have NO clue what these are or are they better... or ....? My brother had bought "fancy" outdoor garden hose then read NOT to leave the hose in the sunlight.... Really ? ==> Surprise !

So, back to basics.
Mark said "you might want to look at the Everlast Power i-MIG 200. It has MIG and stick capabilities". This would be great for me since I have rods already, and have done some limited stick welding. It is $800 (Amazon) which is price wise about the same as the Hobart 190.

If anyone knows, I'd like to understand the following: If I buy the Power i-MIG 200:

Q.) If I decide later for add gas, is there ANYTHING else I need to purchase ? Or, does the gas connectors / gauge (all) come with the machine.
Q.) The description says "Capable of SMAW (Stick) welding when MIG conditions aren't ideal / Flux core capable".
This uses the word "Capable" twice..... Is there ANYTHING else needed to purchase for Stick / Flux core or does everything come with the machine (except consumables of course)
Q.) The machine is claimed 100v / 220v. Great, how is this changed ? Is this straight forward, or is major surgery required ?
Q.) Wire ? The description says" Wire roll size and diameter .023”-.045” (with optional drive rolls and contact tips) Spools up to 8” in diameter (10-12 lbs)"
If I use .030/ .035 flux core, do I need to buy something else ?

If you are wondering why all the different questions, one review on Amazon stated "The only reason I gave this 4 stars instead of 5 was the 5 foot ground - really 5 foot? So I have ordered a 15 foot ground but why doesn't this come with a ground cable of at least 10 foot? I'd have paid the extra few dollars for the unit to come with a longer ground. What are we talking $30 or so"

So, to me, this is one of the little issues I call => "SUPRISE !". Again for ME, a 5' ground cable is NOT going to cut-it. I guess for some, it would depending on your setup. But,...

Sorry, so long here. I don't know what I don't know. I know I could dive head-long. But, requesting a little knowledge from you.

For gas? No. It is ready as is. It comes with everything you need to weld with gas. You will need the 20.00 flux core drive roll though with that unit. If you order through me, I can fix you up with it all.

With the stick, no nothing is needed besides electrodes.

The machine is 120/240V. It comes with an adapter, you just plug it onto the end of the cord, the machine recognizes the change in voltage and adjusts output accordingly.

The work clamp has a cable reach is closer to 6 to 6.5 ft. Now as to why: The industry recommendation is NOT to exceed 2/3 of the length of the work side compared to the torch side. This is because, especially in MIG, which is sensitive to work clamp connections, power flows from negative to positive. You want the Circuit path back to be as short as possible so that voltage doesn't drop and resistance doesn't increase.

Sure there are people that are going to say " I put 1000 foot leads on my machine". Sure. Go ahead. But don't call tech support with issues when you do. There are problems associated with putting longer work clamp cables. I would definitely not go longer than my torch length for certain, especially on MIG.

The cost and effort associated with replacing the stock cable, if too short when you receive it, with 10 foot of welding cable is minimal. It is held in place by a set screw under the DINSE connector cover. Simply remove it, or splice it in with a connector. And you'll need a new eye ring for the work clamp to fit the cable. Takes 5 minutes and whatever you pay per foot of welding cable.

 

[Outinstickssnafu]

By all accounts those welders sound pretty good.

But ... What you should say is ... given the gauge of the ground lead, it is only suitable for x feet ...

Much of the low end welders sold in our parts, stick or mig mag didn't have the thickest of leads on them (a fraction under 1/4 inch core, but I have seen near to 3/16 in for welders purporting to be 140 amps,) where even at 6 feet the power is considerably stifled.

Heavier and longer leads have their negatives as well, outside casing is more likely to wear if one pulls them around, they are heavy to roll up, and in more recent times, nice leads is like painting a target for the copper thieving POSs. For 150 /180 amps, I used to use 400 amp leads (about 9/16 to 5/8 in core of copper) where the main pair were around 20 foot for small jobs which could be in close, iirc a couple were near double that which was handy for larger equipment repairs - mostly as it was long before the days of inverter or solid state welders, and the welder only needed to be as close as practical to the heavy power outlet.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

Just get some small rods for small things. I can weld two soup cans together with an arc welder. Welded a frame on a truck with a coat hanger and a torch. The novice part is what you should work on. I use a wire welder but it's more trouble. You're actually fine with a box machine, you just don't know it.

 

[etpm]

On my small Lincoln SP125 Plus welder I have a heavy 10 foot ground and a 12 foot whip. On my big Miller I have a heavy 12 foot ground and a 12 foot whip. I also have a 25 foot Python whip for the Miller which I only use when necessary. If I need longer grounds I just use an extension I made up with a lug at one end and a ground clamp at the other end. I would rather have the machine close to the work rather than lose energy through long cables when using my small welder.
Eric

 

[Spike56]

For gas? No. It is ready as is. It comes with everything you need to weld with gas. You will need the 20.00 flux core drive roll though with that unit. If you order through me, I can fix you up with it all.

With the stick, no nothing is needed besides electrodes.

The machine is 120/240V. It comes with an adapter, you just plug it onto the end of the cord, the machine recognizes the change in voltage and adjusts output accordingly.

The work clamp has a cable reach is closer to 6 to 6.5 ft. Now as to why: The industry recommendation is NOT to exceed 2/3 of the length of the work side compared to the torch side. This is because, especially in MIG, which is sensitive to work clamp connections, power flows from negative to positive. You want the Circuit path back to be as short as possible so that voltage doesn't drop and resistance doesn't increase.

Sure there are people that are going to say " I put 1000 foot leads on my machine". Sure. Go ahead. But don't call tech support with issues when you do. There are problems associated with putting longer work clamp cables. I would definitely not go longer than my torch length for certain, especially on MIG.

The cost and effort associated with replacing the stock cable, if too short when you receive it, with 10 foot of welding cable is minimal. It is held in place by a set screw under the DINSE connector cover. Simply remove it, or splice it in with a connector. And you'll need a new eye ring for the work clamp to fit the cable. Takes 5 minutes and whatever you pay per foot of welding cable.

Mark,
Thanks for answering my questions. As previously mentioned, my step #1 is to sell my current Miller Stick. Forgive the question, but I now see your @Everlast "advertiser". So, you are a distributor for them ? Dah, I am not clear how this all works - why would I order thru you vs. punching it up on the Everlast website ? Which, claims the i-Mig200 is on sale at the moment ? Don't take offense here, I am just wondering.

 

[Spike56]

Just get some small rods for small things. I can weld two soup cans together with an arc welder. Welded a frame on a truck with a coat hanger and a torch. The novice part is what you should work on. I use a wire welder but it's more trouble. You're actually fine with a box machine, you just don't know it.

Roustabout. I know you are RIGHT ! I actually may end up doing just that - keep the Miller Stick and practice more. For a lot of my "known projects" which, are arbors / fence sections, I may try brazing ? Do not know a lot about this process either.
I have "real" troubles with Stick however. The single biggest issue (being a novice) is actually when I start to weld. With a full size rod, I lose control, and cannot see very well - if that makes sense ? If I get my head closer where I can see, then my hand is above my head, which is difficult. I know, practice, practice.... Once the rod burns down, it is Much easier for me. Cut all rods to 1/2 length... ?
I have used a MIG a total of 1 time. But, could get right on top of the work, so it was "easy for me to see what I was doing / see the puddle". That, and the "easier, so they say" to weld thinner metal is the reason I was considering a MIG, with the Everlast i-Mig 200 having the bonus of running on 110v, also having stick capability. Planning for retirement this year, so this adds a little- "get what I think I am going to use before retirement" ? Or perhaps, it is "I want a new toy".
So, I am one of those people who go to buy a computer, but do not "KNOW" everything I am going to use it for. So, I run some "what if's" and eventually decide to buy more capability than what I think I "need". Not quite apples to apples, but just a general thought process.

So, with a torch and coat hanger.... I would call that a brazing "type" job ? I don't have any real torch, just a hand-help map gas.