MinnesotaEric
Super Member
They only tell people that so as to not over-torque the lugs. Anti-seize studs ads about 10% to torque so you back off a tad on the torque wrench to prevent over-torquing.
Swollen Ford Lug nuts
- Thread starter gsganzer
- Start date
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They only tell people that so as to not over-torque the lugs. Anti-seize studs ads about 10% to torque so you back off a tad on the torque wrench to prevent over-torquing.
boatdesigner
New member
I tried every size of socket i had. Out of desperation i grabbed an old worn 4 bar lug nut remover and shockingly it worked great. There are 1/2 sizes for sockets which was going to be my next try.
boatdesigner
New member
I used an old worn out 4 bar lug nut wrench. Worked great on the swollen nuts.
It's a German thing, BMW and VW. I made studs for both to hold wheel in place when removing and remounting.
Last edited:
Sberry
Platinum Member
The main reason they doi not oil, first it allows a lot of creep on alum wheels, drives them too tight, second trying to train a whole country of chimps working on cars to do it the same right way is a problem. Torque isnt really accurate and being dry actually makes it worse, threads stick and while they stop turning do not clamp properly. Take any old bolt, dry or some simple spray, same for a C clamp,,, seem obvious but guess not. John Deere fastener manual should be required reading for anyone work with bolts.
LouNY
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I have been lubricating wheel lugs and studs and the rim faces for 50 years now.
I run the torque about 10 ft pounds less then called for.
I have never had one I installed loosen. I use a spray never seize on the hub and the back side of the wheel.
In the great saltfest of the NorthEast I have seen numerous rims froze to the hubs from corrosion.
Many that took extreme measure to remove from beating with sledge hammers using hydraulic jacks to running around in circles with the lug nuts half off.
My wifes Jeep uses studs instead of nuts and even with them being changed twice a year for summer/winter tires this spring he lug bolts had swollen the chrome jackets up so the right socket wouldn't fit or if it did go on it took a lot of hammering to get it on. I ordered new solid ones for it.
I actually bought a couple of metric bolts and cut the heads of to make studs I turn in by hand to align the wheel to get the rest of the bolts started.
I run the torque about 10 ft pounds less then called for.
I have never had one I installed loosen. I use a spray never seize on the hub and the back side of the wheel.
In the great saltfest of the NorthEast I have seen numerous rims froze to the hubs from corrosion.
Many that took extreme measure to remove from beating with sledge hammers using hydraulic jacks to running around in circles with the lug nuts half off.
My wifes Jeep uses studs instead of nuts and even with them being changed twice a year for summer/winter tires this spring he lug bolts had swollen the chrome jackets up so the right socket wouldn't fit or if it did go on it took a lot of hammering to get it on. I ordered new solid ones for it.
I actually bought a couple of metric bolts and cut the heads of to make studs I turn in by hand to align the wheel to get the rest of the bolts started.
rScotty
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I've been a mechanic for many decades, and don't recall any real problems with torque values.
Most good nut & bolt clamping work is in the preparation. Cleaning the threads inside and out for example. Do the clean and prep part right, and it really won't matter what kind of lube you use or don't - maybe none at all or maybe grease, oil, dry-lube, or chalk dust.
Installing with torque pre-supposes knowing & trusting the quality of steel being torqued, and that any plating is intact.
Unless all the above is true, using a factory torque is just one more guess. No better or worse than any other guess.
Most good nut & bolt clamping work is in the preparation. Cleaning the threads inside and out for example. Do the clean and prep part right, and it really won't matter what kind of lube you use or don't - maybe none at all or maybe grease, oil, dry-lube, or chalk dust.
Installing with torque pre-supposes knowing & trusting the quality of steel being torqued, and that any plating is intact.
Unless all the above is true, using a factory torque is just one more guess. No better or worse than any other guess.
Gord Baker
Platinum Member
The Problem is NOT the threads but the Galvanic Action that takes place between the taper of the Steel Lug Nut and the Alloy Wheel. Some have used a carbide hole saw that neatly cuts off the SS Cap at the base of the Lug. Then use a tight fitting 6 point deep socket on the remaining steel lug. Sometimes a 3/4" Impact gun is needed but since I have put a swipe of Anti-Seize on the taper NOT THREADS of my Alloy Wheels, no problem. In Ontario contact Lug Nut King for replacements. You're welcome
Bill Guenthner
Platinum Member
LD1
Epic Contributor
Same here on the wifes jeep. I hate them.
Not hard, just not nearly as east as throwing a rim on studs and zipping the lug nuts down. Almost like engineering took a step backwards.
And I'd honestly think it adds cost to a hub. Manufactures are always trying to save pennies here and pennies there. well instead of just drilling a hole for a stud to be pressed, now it needs drilled and tapped.
