DL250 FEL broken bolts!

[CelticArmor]

I have a 2009 MF 573 4WD no cab with a DL 250 FEL. 2 years ago some of the bolts holding the FEL to the engine block (What a DUMB design) came loose and 2 sheared off in the process. We rebolted and rechecked everything. The other day the FEL was moving funny. No more bolts on the front side into the block remain intact. Many have sheared off. Anyone else have anything like this happen? How did you repair it? Currently have the FEL completely removed until I can fix this.

 

[LittleBill21]

sounds like you need to check your bolts more often. I had one broken when i Bought my machine used. tightened everything up and checkl a year later and there was a small amount of looseness. maybe some loctite?

 

[ptsg]

An easy and simple fix for that would be to add some support bars going to the front of the tractor to help spread the load instead of concentrating everything on the center of the tractor.

Like they used to do but decided to stop doing it. Now broken and loose bolts on loader mounts are getting more and more frequent, along with cracking of the loader mounts on higher hour tractors. Sure it may get slightly in the way when doing maintenance but that's a minor inconvenience.

 

[WranglerX]

Usually broken bolts are cause by them being loose and allowing attached hardware move around and shear bolts off.. Solution may be just better quality bolts (grade 5 or grade 8) and lock washers and torqued to spec.... And checked once in a while...

 

[CelticArmor]

Had added higher grade bolts, lock washers and properly torqued. Had used Loctite on the redo as well. Yes, needed to watch more often. Looking for foresight (repair options and ideas) not hindsight (horses already out of the barn).

 

[PatrickS2222]

My thoughts: It can be not just a reliability issue, but also a safety issue as well. If something on one side fails suddenly, an unexpected accident, maybe even a roll-over could easily occur.
I wouls suggest ensuring Grade 8.8 or better still 10.9 bolts are used where strength is paramount, with spring washers and nice thick flat washers, on bolts long enough to reach deeper and utilise as much of the thread into the mounting point as possible without bottoming out. Apply suitable thread-locking compound, then tighten sensibly, not crazy-tight. Remember, a bolt and its partnering thread has a finite amount of strength - when a large percentage of this strength is allocated to its tightening tension, only a small amount remains to be usable for loading forces. And yes, check them frequently - maybe at each refuelling, until you know they stay tight? It's a bit like my 203's LH front wheel nuts when using loader a lot - I like to know they're tight, and it takes 30 seconds. Similarly to these loader mounting bolts, when there are heavy front axle loads they like to loosen, but it doesn't occur if I'm not using the bucket, nor has it ever occurred on the 135. Stay safe.

 

[mikester]

I have a 2009 MF 573 4WD no cab with a DL 250 FEL. 2 years ago some of the bolts holding the FEL to the engine block (What a DUMB design) came loose and 2 sheared off in the process. We rebolted and rechecked everything. The other day the FEL was moving funny. No more bolts on the front side into the block remain intact. Many have sheared off. Anyone else have anything like this happen? How did you repair it? Currently have the FEL completely removed until I can fix this.

I bought my NH tractor used and discovered two broken bolts in the same location. I had the remove the loader and mount then drill out the broken bolts and re-tap the holes. It's a physically PITA job because the bolt locations are so low. I think they were something like M14 or M16 grade 8 bolts which are hard to drill.

Start by pre-drilling the center of the broken stud with a small drill ie 3/16 then work your way up in drill sizes until you can get an easy out to fit. Buy only very good quality drill bits not the chinese crap you get at big box stores. Use plenty of cutting fluid. If you buy left hand drills you sometimes get lucky and the stud will thread its way out when you are drilling. Keep your drills sharp and don't let chips accumulate in the hole or you will have bigger problems.

If you are unlucky and the hole threads have some damage you will need a set of bottoming taps to chase the hole.

It's important to start your holes dead center and NOT drill crooked. DON'T buy cheap drills because they chip and break easily and you will be FUBAR'd.

One of my bolts drilled itself out of the hole. The second one had deformed the threads and needed to be re-tapped.

Beware the loader support arms can be very heavy. Luckily I have a folk lift with side shift making heavy part removal and installation easier.

 

[CelticArmor]

I bought my NH tractor used and discovered two broken bolts in the same location. I had the remove the loader and mount then drill out the broken bolts and re-tap the holes. It's a physically PITA job because the bolt locations are so low. I think they were something like M14 or M16 grade 8 bolts which are hard to drill.

Start by pre-drilling the center of the broken stud with a small drill ie 3/16 then work your way up in drill sizes until you can get an easy out to fit. Buy only very good quality drill bits not the chinese crap you get at big box stores. Use plenty of cutting fluid. If you buy left hand drills you sometimes get lucky and the stud will thread its way out when you are drilling. Keep your drills sharp and don't let chips accumulate in the hole or you will have bigger problems.

If you are unlucky and the hole threads have some damage you will need a set of bottoming taps to chase the hole.

It's important to start your holes dead center and NOT drill crooked. DON'T buy cheap drills because they chip and break easily and you will be FUBAR'd.

One of my bolts drilled itself out of the hole. The second one had deformed the threads and needed to be re-tapped.

Beware the loader support arms can be very heavy. Luckily I have a folk lift with side shift making heavy part removal and installation easier.

Awesome response Mikester! To the mechanically challenged person, such as myself, you have no idea how much help. THANK YOU!

 

[mikester]

Awesome response Mikester! To the mechanically challenged person, such as myself, you have no idea how much help. THANK YOU!

There is another trick. If you get lucky and the bolt stud is flush or proud of the base casting, you can plug weld a slightly smaller nut to the old stud. The heat tends to loosen things and you can walk the stud out easily with a wrench. If the broken stud is inside the casting too much plug welding may damage the casting threads.

 

[lpakiz]

This isn't always doable, but if you have damaged threads in a casting, chase them as deep as you can, ending up with a bottoming tap.
Then install stud(s) to the very VERY BOTTOM of the hole, utilizing every last thread you can.
Mount your attachment on the stud(s) and finish with a good nut.
Now, the casting only needs to be an anchor and there is no pulling/twisting/torsional stress on the casting threads--all that stress is on the new nut, plus you probably gained several new, good threads to help anchor the stud.

I've done Mikesters procedure and can add that sometimes its easier and stronger to weld a slightly smaller but thicker FLAT WASHER to the top of the stud. This lets you get closer to the stud with the welder, resulting in better penetration, rather than reaching down thru a nut to weld. After you get the washer welded good, THEN weld the nut to the washer.

Then get on the nut with a breaker bar or wrench and start LIGHTLY swinging from loose to tight, each time putting SLIGHTLY more force on the unscrewing direction. Back and forth. Be patient. I've swung that breaker bar for more than a minute sometimes, gently and not putting too much power on the wrench. By and by, it may start to move, ever so slightly. Just keep swinging the wrench or breaker bar back and forth. Dont get impatient. Take only whatever slack the bolt will give you. Just keep swinging the bar in a wider and wider arc. You want to work/grind the rust and corrosion looser and looser. Penetrating oil will help after it starts to move.