Rear Axle Failure, Max 28, Service Manual Pages?

[mike69440]

Looks like the max28xl rear end is almost identical to my 2415 that broke in almost the exact same spot.. How is this fix holding up for you? I just bought this tractor and did not know it was broken, I'm curious what caused it. You said you just hit a hole?

Mine also has the same axle lock as yours. How did you modify it so it won't act as a metal shaving dispenser?

See photo.

Driving thru the hole slowly the York rake caught a tree root and 3 Pt had this for a weight weight filled with metal bars, about 750 lbs. Still, it should be able to take it.

 

[SHdrinker]

That sucks you got stuck with a broken tractor. Bet the bill of sale said "As Is"
Regarding my repair, using 3 Lbs. of epoxy I suspect repair is stronger than original Cast Iron. Plus 10,000 psi compressive strength.
I added epoxy to both sides.
Tractor is not back together yet. It is going to tale a while. Heart surgery due on the 8th of September & parts not in yet.
Repair is a real pain.
In any case I polished the activation arm on the diff lock so it will not tear up the bearing surface and will try one of the following between the arm and the Dog sleeve.
(Part 13 and Part 20 of Fig 511)

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However.

If you engage the diff lock, try to do it at a stop or rock it gently to lock.

Me bad. I was engaging in motion, and letting it grind till it engaged. This is not an Eaton locker by any means.

Got it at an auction… right as I pulled it off the trailer and drove over to move my burn pile, put the bucket down, drop clutch, just the front tires turn and rear just jerk and grind.. Ugh. Tore into it the next day and found this beautiful piece of art. Surprised to see yours doesn’t have the support gussets like mine did. Maybe since they switched to cast steel they decided the gussets were overrated. Why would they add extra supports just to be safe? That’d be silly!

 

[mike69440]

Tractor differential Case & Drives are back together!
Remarkably, everything seems to work including the diff Lock when turning by hand.

All new bearings and seal and diff. lock sleeve installed the ground up right drive.
About a $1,000 worth of parts, epoxy, and fluids plus a ton of labor.

The activation lever to the Diff lock I reshaped a bit by grinding, then polished it.

I then added a 33mm hardened blue steel washer behind the diff lock dog sleeve.

I added two .3 mm thk. 35 mm I.D. shims to the axle sleeve to remove most of the axial play. The play was there since new on the right side. while the left side has virtually no axial play in axle. I think that is why the right side always had a very small leak at the seal. I hope the new seal fixes the issue.

Having glued back the bearing retainer, there is just a hint of radial play in the assembly.

I expect the epoxy fill to be stronger than a new casting.
Tomorrow I hook up the brakes, and start putting the fenders, seat floor pan support, Seat, wiring ROPS, 3 pt. links, Loader tires etc. back together.
I will be really careful using the diff lock, It feels real solid right now and I intend to keep it that way.

 

[mike69440]

Got it at an auction… right as I pulled it off the trailer and drove over to move my burn pile, put the bucket down, drop clutch, just the front tires turn and rear just jerk and grind.. Ugh. Tore into it the next day and found this beautiful piece of art. Surprised to see yours doesn’t have the support gussets like mine did. Maybe since they switched to cast steel they decided the gussets were overrated. Why would they add extra supports just to be safe? That’d be silly!

So the 2415 has an Aluminum differential case? Was it made by Mitsubishi?

Again the Casting designer never spoke to the bearing engineer.

 

[arto98607]

Tractor differential Case & Drives are back together!
Remarkably, everything seems to work including the diff Lock when turning by hand.

All new bearings and seal and diff. lock sleeve installed the ground up right drive.
About a $1,000 worth of parts, epoxy, and fluids plus a ton of labor.

The activation lever to the Diff lock I reshaped a bit by grinding, then polished it.

I then added a 33mm hardened blue steel washer behind the diff lock dog sleeve.

I added two .3 mm thk. 35 mm I.D. shims to the axle sleeve to remove most of the axial play. The paly was there since new on the right side. left side has virtually no axial play in axle.

Having glued back the bearing retainer , there is hint a hint of radial play in the assembly.

I expect the epoxy fill to be stronger than new.
Tomorrow I hook up the brakes, and start putting the fenders, seat floor pan support, Seat, wiring ROPS, 3 pt. links, Loader tires etc. back together.
I will be really careful using the diff lock, It feels real solid right now and I intend to keep it that way.

Looks like you are doing an excellent job repairing damage due to design defect(s).


Weak casting design is one issue, but it also looks like the axle bearings are pretty close together.

Just for comparison below is a photo of Ford 1310 rear axle, showing how far outward the cast iron housings extend from the differential.

 

[mike69440]

Ford made a well designed tractor. Meatier than anything made to today

Need to add all fluids and fuel, install Tires, Some zip ties to tidy electrical harness, add Loader, Quick Hitch, counter weight, & York Rake, then drive it hard into a pile to test.
Also will change hydraulic filter after oil circulates a bit.

 

[mike69440]

As a test I dragged my driveway. It was a mess. All good!

Rake is cut down from 64" to 76"

Steel filled concrete block on inside of Quick Hitch is over 700 Lbs.
Have a 75 Lb. weight in the bottom of the Grill Guard. Tractor weight is 3500 lbs. as shown.

 

[SimpleSimon]

Now that you've fixed it, this would be a good time to trade up for a heavier tractor. You deserve it after all you've been through, plus if it broke once, it might again! Just say'n.

 

[mike69440]

Now that you've fixed it, this would be a good time to trade up for a heavier tractor. You deserve it after all you've been through, plus if it broke once, it might again! Just say'n.

Regarding getting a larger tractor, already have that covered. Take a look at my equipment in the Avatar.
Max 28 is all fixed, pushed it real hard for about 8 hours, Better than new. I used it like a trac-steer! Tractor has all sorts of upgrades and reinforcements to where my Max 28 can do work of smaller Kubota L or LX series tractor in a far more compact size. I have other threads in this forum detailing my mods. Just do a search. Small new tractors run $30K or more. To replace my modified Kubota TLB would be $75K, my excavator $125K-$150. I am way to old and Biden poor to even think of any new major purchases.

I'm look at about $15-$20K, just to get my Cobra back to where it was before the motor developed a rap.

 

[mwayne]

That is really innovative thinking on your repair and I hope it works out long term. How did you make the epoxy to bond to the metal?