Looking to buy my first tractor

[c5fire]

Hi just joined the group, I’m looking for opinions on what tractor to get I’m thinking that a compact is what I need. I’ve got a little over 20 acres in north east Texas a lot of timber on the property a lot of down trees needing cleaning up and piles to burn.

I’m planning to do a lot of heavy lifting in addition to a good bit of dirt work. That said I require a front end loader, a box blade and eventually like to get a grappler and a brush hog and I’m sure other implants down the road. I’ve gone to several of the local tractor dealers just looking and having no real ideas on what to get.

For the little bit of research that I have done I like a lot of the standard options the new Summit tractor offers. I know it is not a well established company and only time will tell.

One thing I would prefer is that the tractor not need DEF because of the added complexity of them and from what I’ve heard they can be more finicky. I’ve been advised to stay away from the tractors with regin systems.

Additionally I would like to stay under 25k

Thanks in advance.

 

[Rdrcr]

Welcome!

Are you looking to purchase new or pre-owned?

I think with your budget and the fact you want to stay away from emissions, you could get more value in a pre-owned, pre-emissions tractor.

Mike

 

[dusty3030]

Compact track loader would serve you better than a tractor for now. 25,000 you would be looking at a slightly high hour machine that might need a little work. Beat the hell out of it doing your heavy lifting then sell it for a little newer tractor down the road. You should be able to get most if not all of your money back out of it.

Another option if you don't have to trailer it around a used full sized backhoe with a 4 in 1 bucket can do some major heavy work cleaning the place up.

 

[jyoutz]

Hi just joined the group, I’m looking for opinions on what tractor to get I’m thinking that a compact is what I need. I’ve got a little over 20 acres in north east Texas a lot of timber on the property a lot of down trees needing cleaning up and piles to burn.

I’m planning to do a lot of heavy lifting in addition to a good bit of dirt work. That said I require a front end loader, a box blade and eventually like to get a grappler and a brush hog and I’m sure other implants down the road. I’ve gone to several of the local tractor dealers just looking and having no real ideas on what to get.

For the little bit of research that I have done I like a lot of the standard options the new Summit tractor offers. I know it is not a well established company and only time will tell.

One thing I would prefer is that the tractor not need DEF because of the added complexity of them and from what I’ve heard they can be more finicky. I’ve been advised to stay away from the tractors with regin systems.

Additionally I would like to stay under 25k

Thanks in advance.

The Summit tractor website seems to indicate that they are only available in one small model: a smallish 25hp lightweight machine. It doesn’t sound suitable for your intended uses. DEF systems aren’t used in machines less than 75hp.

 

[jeff9366]

I’m soliciting opinions on what 'first' tractor to get. I think a compact tractor is what I need. I’ve got a little over 20 acres in north east Texas a lot of timber on the property a lot of down trees and piles to burn.

I plan a lot of heavy lifting in addition to a good bit of dirt work. That said I require a front end loader, a box blade and eventually like to get a grapple and a brush hog and I’m sure other implements down the road.
I’ve gone to several of the local tractor dealers just looking. I have no idea of what I need.

The fundamental importance of TRACTOR WEIGHT eludes many tractor shoppers. Tractor capability is more closely correlated to tractor weight than any other single (1) specification.

The most efficient way to shop for tractors is to first identify potential tractor applications, then, through consulataton, establish bare tractor weight necessary to safely accomplish your applications. Tractor dealers, experienced tractor owners and TractorByNet.com are sources for weight recommendations.

Sufficient tractor weight is more important for most tractor applications than increased tractor horsepower. Bare tractor weight is a tractor specification easily found in sales brochures and web sites, readily comparable across tractor brands and tractor models, new and used.

Within subcompact and compact tractor categories, a significant tractor capability increase requires a bare tractor weight increase of 50%. It takes a 100% increase in bare tractor weight to elicit MY-OH-MY!

Shop your weight range within tractor brands. Budget will eliminate some choices. Collect a dealer brochure for each tractor model in your weight range. I spreadsheet tractor and implement specs, often a revealing exercise. I have a column for cost per pound.

Most tractors under 3,000 pounds bare weight operate in residential or hobby farm applications on one to ten flat acres.

Selling a used tractor is easy. Selling multiple light implements in order to buy heavier, wider implements for a new, heavier tractor requires a lot of time. Depreciation on implements is worse than depreciation on a tractor.

When considering a tractor purchase bare tractor weight first, tractor horsepower second, rear axle width third, rear wheel/tire ballast fourth.

A quality dealer, reasonably close, available for coaching, is important for tractor neophytes. Most new tractors are delivered with a glitch or two requiring correction. My Kubota dealer is six miles away. I feel my local dealer continues to add value to my equipment after nine years. Dealer proximity is less important for those experienced with tractors and qualified to perform their own maintenance.

BUY ENOUGH TRACTOR.

​

For your safety as a first time tractor operator with 20 acres and the expectation of timber lifting with the FEL you need a compact tractor of minimum 3,700 pounds to 4,000 pounds bare tractor weight. This is a volume segment of the compact tractor category. Every manufacturer produces several models in this weight. Many available used. Pre-2013 compact tractors of greater than 26-horsepower were produced before Tier IV emissions control paraphernalia was required, ie: before DPF/Diesel Particulate Filter.

((You cannot enjoy operating a tractor if you are dead from a rollover. ))

Tractors of 3,700 to 4,000 pounds bare weight have the rear wheel/tire spread to be reasonably steady when lifting one ton FEL loads or pulling implements over ground less than perfectly flat and perfectly smooth.

 

[jeff9366]

Brand? Models to look at or avoid? Buy new or used?

The design of the Three Point Hitch tractor has been marketed in the USA since 1939 -- 83 years in 2022.

The basic design is generic.

Kubota and Deere have most of the market through 6,000 pound bare weight tractors. But this Kubota/Deere predominance is regional.

The up and coming compact tractor brands are Korean: Kioti, LS and Branson. There are other Korean brands. You have to critically assess dealer stability while shopping minor brands.

Korean manufacturing labor is paid 50% of what Deere pays its union work force. Japanese manufacturing labor is paid 70% of what Deere pays its union work force. Labor costs strongly influence tractor prices.



We have the following brands within an hour of us.

• Kubota
• LS
• TYM
• KIOTI
• Massey Ferguson
• John Deere

I know that a lot depends on the dealer and their willingness to help, but should I stay away from any of these brands?


Start with the nearest dealer and work out.

Transporting a tractor for service is expensive and inconvenient, whether you trailer it or the dealer trailers it.


CREDIT: 'FELIXEDO'

"It has been touched on a couple of times, but not directly as a buying factor.

Every major make has a machine that will do the job(s) you want. Check out your nearby dealers, and go with one you have confidence in.

A great machine with no support nearby is a hassle to repair and maintain.

And a good machine can't make a lousy dealer into a good dealer."

 

[nybirdman]

At least in our area;dairy country;I would look for a 70-100 hp used machine with FEL.Why: that size;too big for most home-owners and too small for most farmers.
Buy a "name brand" with a fairly local dealer.

 

[jeff9366]

When considering a tractor purchase bare tractor weight first, tractor horsepower second, rear axle width third, rear wheel/tire ballast fourth.

Above are important considerations.


I would prefer the tractor not need DEF because of the added complexity. From what I’ve heard they can be finicky. I’ve been advised to stay away from the tractors with regen systems.

Emission controls are not immaterial considerations but much lower in priority.






Looking to buy my first Kioti tractor for my 26 acre farm. The tasks are bush-hogging 20 acres once per year that includes steep hills, tilling my vegetable garden, 1000 foot gravel driveway maintenance, cutting and hauling wood for winter and just general tractor and loader work.

I think the Kioti ck2610 would suit most of my needs except bush hogging.

Subcompact and compact tractors under 3,000 pounds bare weight operate in landscape, kitchen/commercial garden or hobby farm applications on one to ten flat acres.

~~ BUY ENOUGH TRACTOR ~~​

When considering a tractor purchase bare tractor weight first, tractor horsepower second, rear axle width third, rear wheel/tire ballast fourth.

Bare tractor weight first

Looking to buy my first tractor for my 26 acre farm that includes steep hills.

CK2610 is too light/narrow/unstable for your topography and tractor applications.

Every tractor producer has at least an economy and deluxe model in the 4,000 pound bare weight category, with a 66" width and 40 to 60 horsepower. These are the mid-weights in the compact tractor category and sell in high unit volumes.

tractor horsepower second

I am assuming I can run a 6ft bush hog and might get away with a 7ft.

Mowing once per year you will need a heavy duty Rotary Cutter weighing 1,100 to 1,500 pounds and at least 50 engine horsepower to spin it cutting 5' to 7' tall grass and a year's production of brush.

If contemplating a cab tractor, 60 engine horsepower would be better. The cab weighs ~ 700 pounds ~ and the air conditioning requires several horsepower.

rear axle width third

Tractors are inherently unstable operating on sloped ground. Tractor rear wheel/tire spread, sometimes adjustable, is a critical factor increasing compact tractor stability working sloped or uneven ground. A 6" to 10" increase in rear axle width substantially decreases tractor rollover potential. Tractor width is an approximation of rear axle width.

Small tractor wheels drop into holes, disrupting traction. Larger wheels and tires supplied on heavier tractors bridge holes and ruts, increasing traction. Larger wheels and tires permit higher operating speed over uneven ground by reducing implement bounce and operator perturbation.


rear wheel/tire ballast fourth

To apply 60-horsepower to the ground with an open station tractor you will probably want rear tires filled 50% or 75% with liquid to lower tractor center-of-gravity and bolt-on wheel weights.

If you are considering a cab tractor the cab weight substitutes for wheel weights.

Tasks include hauling wood for winter and just general tractor and loader work.

With this ballast on the rear wheels of an open station tractor you will be able to lift 65% (+/-) of Loader capacity without a Three Point Hitch implement mounted.

 

[/pine]

In the old days tractors were especially heavy because they did not have 4 wheel drive...
4x4 on a compact tractor with loaded rears greatly makes up for lack of bare machine weight...

Tractor weight is very important for ground engaging implements but not so much for other applications...
...Smaller, lighter tractors can often do the exact same work as heavier tractors just not as fast...

IMO the number one factor to accomplishing desired work is operator experience with properly sized attachments...

Something else to consider when wanting a grapple...here on TBN...99% of the pictures posted of full grapples at work can be accomplished with just a "thumb" grapple on a FEL bucket...often a well designed thump grapple can be moved from bucket to forks when desirable...

 

[shooterdon]

I would not buy a grapple again unless moving a lot a brush. A set of pallet forks and a thumb will be far more useful. Something like this:

https://primeattach.com/products/pallet-fork-grapple/

IMO you want a 35-45 HP machine weighing 3500-4000 lbs and filled rear tires. If you ever want to remove a lot of stumps, a 3PH stump grinder might be worth looking at.

Heavy lifting is dangerous work. Weight and wide tractor are your friends.

 

[RjCorazza]

I agree with @shooterdon, that a 35-40 HP machine would be the entry point for the work required. A $25k budget puts the op into the used tractor category of this size.
As far as emissions, I have a 40hp DPF tractor, and the emissions have been a non issue over the past 800 hours. I wouldn't discount a DPF tractor.
I do occasional brush moving with just plain pallet forks, but I think for more frequent brush work I would want a full - blown grapple. The add on pallet thumbs seem handy, but I personally wouldn't want to go half way with one.

 

[Rockbadchild]

welcome to TBN ... keep us up to date on the development of your purchase and don't be afraid to ask the questions you might have.

 

[ericm979]

I'll second not worrying about the emissions systems on tractors between 25.5 and 75hp. Excepting a few models, some of which are no longer sold, they're pretty reliable. And the exhaust is cleaner, which is good for your lungs. Tractors under 75hp don't need DEF and their emissions limits are easier to reach than for tractors over 75hp and pickup trucks, so their emission systems are simpler and they have a lot fewer issues.

A grapple is super useful for moving logs (when cut to length), tree parts and brush around. If your property is steep or heavily wooded, a forestry winch can be useful for getting trees out to where you can cut them up or move them with the tractor. Check out videos on youtube to see how they're operated. They also can be used to drag logs with the butt end high so it damages your roads less. A logging arch can do the same. A PTO powered chipper can be useful for getting rid of tree slash and brush, especially when its not safe to burn piles.

There, I think I got you up to about $45k.

You don't need all that stuff right away or maybe ever, just letting you know what's out there. For attachments like the grapple and winch, having a large enough tractor can be a help.

 

[ROUSTABOUT]

I'm close in SW Arkansas. Get a 50-75 horse 4x4 and you'll be happy. There was a nice Ford 3930 in dekalb for sale while back. It was 4x4 too.

 

[finn1]

Find a used CTL. Much more suitable for your application, and much more robust / less fragile.

Tractors are primarily designed for dragging things around And farming type operations . Various types of construction equipment are for dirt work, land clearing, etc, and are much more rugged by design, as a result.

 

[masseyrider]

best tractor ever was the Hoyt Clagwell.
They last forever.
Inexpensive and they will run on a variety of fuels.
If you want a good machine, simple, heavy, no emissions nonsense look at a Massey Ferguson 2600H series.
Built old school and reasonably priced. Cheaper than orange, blue or green machines of similar options.
If you buy new you won't be inheriting someone else's headache and you'll have 5 years of warranty. Enough time to learn how to do your own maintenance and repairs.

 

[2manyrocks]

You say you have a lot of downed trees to clean up. It might be helpful for you to estimate the weight of what you will be dealing with. There's a handy chart in the middle of the page here: Green Log Weight Charts & Calculator | Sherrilltree

Once you estimate the weight of the trees, then look at loader capacity. Chances are the trees will be heavier than the loader capacity of a 25hp tractor. Your choice then becomes whether to look at buying a bigger tractor or a compact track loader with more lifting capacity or having to saw the trees into more manageable sections (more work and slower).

If you are dealing with a lot of trees, then a grapple will help compact the smaller canopy limbs from the tree tops before moving them. It's much faster to grab a bunch of downed limbs and move them with a grapple than do this by hand or use forks. Tree limbs don't arrange themselves in convenient piles to pick up with forks in my experience. However, you can do a lot with forks and they are certainly more affordable to start with.

Often, you will need to pay to add third function controls to allow you to operate the hydraulic cylinder(s) on the grapple. MTL Attachments makes a 48" grapple that sells for about $1,300. The third function controls may cost $550-1000 on up depending on what you buy and whether you install it yourself. You can buy larger grapples to use with larger tractors and the price goes up from there.

If you have areas where a tractor can't go, you might consider buying a forestry winch that would allow you to winch them out. That's about a $4,300 item.

 

[rScotty]

At least in our area;dairy country;I would look for a 70-100 hp used machine with FEL.Why: that size;too big for most home-owners and too small for most farmers.
Buy a "name brand" with a fairly local dealer.

I would drop that down to 60 to 90 hp... but sure do agree with the reasoning - you want a tractor too big for homeowners and too small for crop farmers, but that size would be just right for a 20 acre "chore tractor". Especially if the 20 acres is a bit rough with too many trees.

It's also a size range where a machine with a couple of thousand hours is considered "reasonable hours". And it is a size where your budget will buy a 15 to 20 year old pre-emissions machine with a stout front end loader, category II 3pt with extra hydraulics, and plenty of decent life left. Those older larger tractors can last a long, long time.

Hold out for a name brand in good shape. Your budget is reasonable & will buy a good one of that size. Right now the tractor market is upside down with so many new rural homeowners buying now. So that same budget wouldn't buy much in the 30 to 50 hp size.
And for handling lots of downed trees in rough terrain you really want a tractor in the over 50/60 hp. size.
rScotty

 

[Torvy]

Howdy neighbor! We have slightly less acreage in the Northern Piney Woods. We're a bit south of Lake Bob Sandlin.

I recently ordered a TYM T574H. It is a little higher than your target price, but is feature loaded and well suited to our area and trees. It is a heavy, strong tractor. 4 dealers less than 90 miles from here (Longview, Carthage, Caddo Mills and Tyler). My tractor out the door was less than $30k. You can save roughly $2500 by getting the T494H which is exactly the same tractor without the turbo. If you prefer a shuttle shift, you can shave off another $1500 or so. That would get you pretty close to your price with a full warranty and dealer support.

 

[drumminj]

Once you estimate the weight of the trees, then look at loader capacity. Chances are the trees will be heavier than the loader capacity of a 25hp tractor. Your choice then becomes whether to look at buying a bigger tractor or a compact track loader with more lifting capacity or having to saw the trees into more manageable sections (more work and slower).

Do keep in mind one generally isn't lifting the trees/logs to full height, and so one can likely move larger logs than the "published" spec if you're going to keep it low, which is safer anyhow.

For example, my LA765 will lift 1263lbs to "max height" (2673mm, 500mm forward of pins), but 1726lbs to 1500mm -- roughly 60" and roughly 2200lbs to 20" based on the published lift capacity curve.