daman1
Gold Member
So long story short does the radiator have to come out to replace the fan belt?
GC 2410 belt change help
- Thread starter Racer4
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It gave me more room to fish the belt around the crank pulley and around fan blades. Since the fan shroud plate can't be removed without removing the fan, I'll say yes.
daman1
Gold Member
Bummer, I guess one drawback of the rear-facing engine on these GC's
Turfmaster6
Member
Hi there.. hoping you can add the missing detail fo me. I removed the locking bolt from the shaft at the HST end of the shaft. It really felt like the bolt was screwed into the far side of the collar that goes over the splines. Got it out and tried to slide the shaft forward off the HST spline but I got literally zero budging. I grabbed the shaft with a good bite from vice grips and tried to hammer it forward off the spline. No progress. Repeated this in that box directly under the hydraulic steering pump (debris storage space
. Still no motion. Not even a mm. What might be the trick? I see you mention a nut though I did not see a nut. Dear God I hope I don't have to position a nut on top of that collar when I reassemble. As a 40 year consulting design engineer, I'm in awe that Massey did not provide an access to this area from the top side of the deck.
Sorry, that was me that said there was a nut on that driveshaft... but no, there isn't, just that bolt, if I'm getting the picture right here. Sounds like your shaft splines may be rusted/stuck there. Try some PB Blaster or similar, let it soak a few days....
Wow-- memories: "Great Town Greenfield, Why not Stop In?" Can't remember how many times I'd seen that old sign on I-91....
Wow-- memories: "Great Town Greenfield, Why not Stop In?" Can't remember how many times I'd seen that old sign on I-91....
Turfmaster6
Member
Thank you very sincerely for getting back to me on this. It's apart in my driveway and I'm anxious to get it done. I think given current challenges of moving that I've (proudly) earned enjoying life that I've crossed a certain event horizon for this adventure and it's now time to make create an access panel to do the rest of the work. I'll need to replace the fan as well since the tractor came with a broken off fan blade. Perfect spot for an electric fan, though I've had the replacement fan on the shelf for probably 10 years.
Appreciate your recommendation of PBlaster as well. I've gone through a few dozen cans of that in life but I'll share I've since moved on to a cheaper and more effective penetrant... a 50/50 mix of acetone and power steering fluid, reported in Machinist's Workshop in 2007. My native impatience usually adds oxygen and acetylene to the mixture post application to just part of the circumference of the outer perimeter to further enlist the assistance of physics. Final detail on that mixture.. the original article calls out ATF but the tester actually used power steering fluid (as reported elsewhere on the internet). I have had unusually good luck freeing up crevice and dissimilar metal corrosion in a marine environment (without fire) with that solution.
FYI, the reason this turned into a middle-of-snow/cold-season repair was I mistakenly believed a link belt would be a good solution to the ridiculous design of the Massey and in particular the requirement that a machine built (sorry all but it's true) for old guys to play with requires this sort effort for a common maintenance item, me competing effective for the most ancient and used up here (a spine with...... so far [he said optimistically]...... 2 broken necks and 2 broken backs on the books
So I remind nobody of Gilles Gilbert rising and falling swiftly and gracefully as I work on this ill-designed thing. I talked to a guy I bumped into in Belchrtwn at DD about this before mine needed it and he said he paid... not making this up... almost $1k for the dealer to do it. So I was ready the moment my original belt finished destroying itself with a Fenner link belt. That turned out to be it's own exercise of building a ship in a bottle since, at least for me, it required assembly "inside out" and rotating/routing it in that space was less than joy-producing but I did make a tool that routed the belt down in the hole more easily (and thank you to the "designer" for placing the bold about which the alternator pivots such that the removal path is 1. invisible and 2. interrupted by the path of the belt). That belt lasted just under 8 hours after burning 4 hours to install it before it too severed... literally, the instant I completed pulling a rootball that went all the way to China over the preceding 2 days the new belt died. Turns out the kind of belt Massey put in is a thing called a cogged raw edge belt and the geometry of the sheaves is specific to that and importantly hostile to a belt made for a conventional geometry. A Fenner engineer ultimately sharing that their belts will not last in a cogged raw edge application. I could forgive going to a nearly proprietary belt type IF they actually thought about their customer and the system maintainability and didn't loop the stupid thing around the drive shaft. I know the visibility argument but I also know about the utter rarity of naive designers implementing considerations for other crucial considerations like competing harms. EVERYONE thinks they can design and whatever thought pops into their skull regardless of hours of experience (practitioner) or education/training (formalist) just powers ahead and thousand or millions of people are stuck with it. So... respectfully... (in case it ever changes anything in the universe by putting it out there)... if you don't design every day, don't design on ANY day. It is extraordinary how much third-party harm is visited upon people who didn't sign up to be a victim of someone pushing their "solution design" (machine, product, gvt/energy policy, etc) out the door despite their obvious unsuitability. I have a pretty complete machine shop in my house and considered making new sheaves for standard belts but that'd be its own adventure given the shaft is concentric with the drive sheave and I think I'd prefer to not invest my dwindling pile of heart beats in other things.... like constantly welding up the GC's muffler
. My heat treat abilities are currently too crude to bet on for such a high time investment project as well though I hope to change this year.As too Greenfield.... call that one of my addresses for the internet, but not real far away. I did teach engineering (the good kind... electrical and computer
not all that distant from there and literally a month ago my wife informed me that an old style restaurant we used to go to and very much enjoy had been closed for years (we should have gone more!). Hmm.... there is a sign where I live that were you to drive past with the setting sun in your eyes more than twice I'm sure you'd know of as the "home of" such and such. Pls excuse the obfuscation... I hold that every personally identifiable thing one says that touches the internet should be a lie. Though.... actually.... I'm totally into turf and did take every course one needs for a degree in agrostology.. aka turf grass management.. when I was a useless academic because engineering is so exciting!).Attachments
Dmacleo
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Sep 11, 2020
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- Etna, Maine
- Tractor
- 2010 MF GC2400 Owner, 2012 MF1532 User
I never knew I was related to someone in MA.
fire NOT bad....
Turfmaster6
Member
Very few brag about that sort of thing. At least I don't live in CA though.
Well. Something isn't right. The belt I replaced above is already getting chewed up somehow. It's now only 3/8" wide and was super loose when I was readying the tractor for winter. All the pulleys seem to be lined up correctly. At least looking at it by eye. I mean it's just crank, water pump, alternator. And you can't really put too much tension on the belt.
Any ideas? There might be 40 hours on it since replacement. I mean, I've never experienced this kind of wear on any car I've ever owned. Maybe the upper alternator bracket is flexing under minimal belt tension? It seems thick enough that it shouldn't do that. Maybe I'll have to remove it and check for straightness. Possibly get a thicker one made?
Any ideas? There might be 40 hours on it since replacement. I mean, I've never experienced this kind of wear on any car I've ever owned. Maybe the upper alternator bracket is flexing under minimal belt tension? It seems thick enough that it shouldn't do that. Maybe I'll have to remove it and check for straightness. Possibly get a thicker one made?
Wow, sorry to hear that! I just went out & looked at mine -- it doesn't seem there can be any variation with how the pulleys line up, with the exception of the alternator mounting. I mean, presumably the crankshaft and the water pump are not movable with respect to each other, right? I'd say either there's an alignment issue --- or perhaps the water pump is shot and/or stuck?
As an aside, I recently had to replace the fuel line that goes from the injection pump on the engine back to the (very) small electric fuel pump under the floor. In doing so, I removed the entire floor panel, which wasn't as bad as it sounds, actually. Removing the entire floor will give MUCH better access to all that stuff under there -- the HST driveshaft, the plastic fan, and all the debris that piles up in there.
Begin by removing the panels around the air intake under/around the instrument panel (as above), but then pop off the rubber floor mats (held in with plastic push-button things). Then remove the knobs that need to come off-- some just pull off, others are threaded. Once the rubber mats are off, you can see where the floor metal has enlarged holes so it can fit over stuff like the brake pedal and the diff lock. The floor panel itself is held in with a bunch of bolts...maybe 10 or so.
PS-- there's also a ground wire -- the one that comes right off the battery negative post!-- right next to the fuel pump that you'll probably want to clean up...
Good luck and keep us posted!
As an aside, I recently had to replace the fuel line that goes from the injection pump on the engine back to the (very) small electric fuel pump under the floor. In doing so, I removed the entire floor panel, which wasn't as bad as it sounds, actually. Removing the entire floor will give MUCH better access to all that stuff under there -- the HST driveshaft, the plastic fan, and all the debris that piles up in there.
Begin by removing the panels around the air intake under/around the instrument panel (as above), but then pop off the rubber floor mats (held in with plastic push-button things). Then remove the knobs that need to come off-- some just pull off, others are threaded. Once the rubber mats are off, you can see where the floor metal has enlarged holes so it can fit over stuff like the brake pedal and the diff lock. The floor panel itself is held in with a bunch of bolts...maybe 10 or so.
PS-- there's also a ground wire -- the one that comes right off the battery negative post!-- right next to the fuel pump that you'll probably want to clean up...
Good luck and keep us posted!
daman1
Gold Member
Does it look like the belt is hitting something, it must be contacting something because everything sure looks like it's lined up properly you're going to have to thoroughly inspect around the whole circumference of the belt path see if you can see anything
richief
New member
I am new here but getting to know a GC2610 quickly. Did you get exact part number on the new belt, or just match it up by length? An earlier contributor on this thread reported not using a cogged drive belt, resulting with only a few hours service before failure. My belt is made by mitsuboshi (RECMF1340) which is m10 x 865, but tomorrow I will be putting a Gates 7340 on my GC2610, which is 11mm x 865mm. I also cross refferenced the original belt to a Volvo 973535 cogged V-Belt (9.5x850mm), and a AVX 10X865 Continental ContiTech, which is exact size as original. The original belt rode sorta deep in the pulley, so I am reckoning a biteen wider will suit this job. I will let yee know if it rides too high, or does not hold up over time, and that shouldn’t be very long as I have a list of projects, weather permitting.
I used an AGCO belt, which was a Mitsuboshi. My problems is the belt keeps getting skinnier and thus looser, as I use the tractor.
richief
New member
I have had experience with running slipping belts in the past, that the final cure was a new pulley. Slipping belts will wear a pulley. With that in mind on this small pulley and with a lathe, a fella can recut the the proper angle and run a 1mm wider belt. Prob easier than sourcing the pulley.
richief
New member
So I went at the fan belt today, the Gates 7340 just went on the alternator with a lil help turning the water pump pulley, like mounting a tire. Rides at the top of pulleys and there is almost full travel of adjustment left. Next I removed pinch bolt from yoke at the hst, slid forward off of tranny splines, then slid it back and to the side, out of universal yoke @ engine. I removed lower dash panel and 4 screws to remove the screen @ tunnel, forward of floor board. Then just loosened alternator adjustment bolt and pivot bolt. At this point i was able to route the old belt over fan blades then down and rearward through cutout in radiator support panel. Then from tunnel where screen is removed, pull the old belt out and fish new belt forward and around u-joint yoke. I installed belt and then reconnected a newly greased shaft to yoke @ engine. I did paint mark the shaft and yoke, so even though i turned engine slightly getting the new belt on, I had no trouble indexing shaft, in fact I see no variation of splines, but my reading research said there may be, however it was a lot of manhandling to get perfectly perpendicular on initial rejoining of shaft to yoke, as the shaft is at an angle now, horizontally, rather than eyeballing a straight line front to back. The rear of shaft isn’t indexed except that on assembly i rotated to have easy pinch bolt access. Reinstalled the dash tunnel screen and dash panel to complete the job. It runs good and no slipping. Thank God, as I was afraid I may have done damage when it over heated. I couldn’t find my oil filter but will change oil and probably coolant too, before working it.
CarlGlas
Gold Member
After 18 years, the belt on my GC2300 has been adjusted for the last time. I bought a replacement belt (Gates 7340) and had intended to replace it but as you may know, it's not an easy task. Then, I found out about Accu-Link belts. There are quite a few videos on YouTube with tractor owners using them so I bought one on Amazon for under $30 and replacing the old worn-out belt is as simple as raising the hood.
Dmacleo
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Sep 11, 2020
- Messages
- 1,969
- Location
- Etna, Maine
- Tractor
- 2010 MF GC2400 Owner, 2012 MF1532 User
one youtube channel I watch (dirtperfect) used it on a (iirc deere 850j) dozer and it seemed to work well.
worse case is try it and if it fails then pull driveshaft and replace with oem belt I guess.
worse case is try it and if it fails then pull driveshaft and replace with oem belt I guess.
Worst case is actually, it fails at a really bad time, and or takes out the radiator when it lets go.
fortunately, we have CarlGlas stepping up, and volunteering to be a team MF test pilot.
I think we would all agree, that if it lasts 5 years, it's a fix?
I'll go on the record saying, I believe it will work that long.
