Battery powered chainsaw

[John_Mc]

... The issue is finding the correct file for the chain, it is a 4.5mm file and I am finding they are hard to come by. It might be easier to find a different chain that uses a more common file. For a while Oregon was putting the wrong file in their 4.5 mm package so I am hesitant on mail order.

4.5mm is just about 11/64" - some I've seen sold are labeled one way, some the other.

On problem is that a lot of 7/32 low profile chains take 5/32" (4.0mm) while others take 11/64" (4.5mm). So just looking for a sharpening kit made for 7/32" low profile chain is no guarantee you'll get what you are looking for. On the other hand, Using a 5/32" file on a chain designed for 11/64" (4.5mm) files still gives pretty good results.

 

[IXLR8]

4.5mm is just about 11/64" - some I've seen sold are labeled one way, some the other.

On problem is that a lot of 7/32 low profile chains take 5/32" (4.0mm) while others take 11/64" (4.5mm). So just looking for a sharpening kit made for 7/32" low profile chain is no guarantee you'll get what you are looking for. On the other hand, Using a 5/32" file on a chain designed for 11/64" (4.5mm) files still gives pretty good results.

Thanks, I believe I have a 5/32" file, I'll give that a try and see how it works out.

 

[ArlyA]

Thanks, I believe I have a 5/32" file, I'll give that a try and see how it works out.

If that is the correct size, I'd suggest a box of them.

 

[WinterDeere]

Thanks, I believe I have a 5/32" file, I'll give that a try and see how it works out.

Probably a good bit of elbow grease on the first sharpening, essentially changing the grind from 11/64 to 5/32, but easy after that. I'd imagine going smaller, as suggested here, always means more work than going larger. I say that because going up 1/64 means you're instantly sharpening the portion of the tooth doing the actual cutting, whereas going smaller means you're only sharpening the "side" of the cutter, until you've removed enough metal that the file is engaging the top of the tooth at a new radius.

I use a bench-mounted chain grinder, and although I use the right wheel for the chain, the grind is never a perfect match for hand-filing. That has a similar result, more elbow grease required when changing from grinder to hand file, on that first hand file sharpening after using the grinder.

 

[John_Mc]

Thanks, I believe I have a 5/32" file, I'll give that a try and see how it works out.

Do you use a guide or do you freehand file?

 

[ultrarunner]

I was getting ready for the storm that is heading for the east coast and noticed an 80' tall pine tree that was leaning towards my shop. Not a good situation with wind gusts to 60mph forecast. I got out my come-along and chains to make sure tree fell where I wanted it to and got out my Ego 16" chain saw w/5Ah battery. It has always worked well for me, couldn't bog it down, never shut down due to over current/temp. Well I must have hit the ground a few too many times last time I used it. It didn't throw chips like it use to and I kept getting over current/temp shut downs. What should have taken me less than 5 minutes to cut down the tree took closer to 15 min with all the shut downs. Went to cut up the tree and gave up due to all the shutdowns. Grabbed my trusty Echo 280e, checked the fuel, low but should be enough to finish the job. I finished the cut, but had 5 more cuts before I was done. Next cut, saw died due to being out of fuel and of course there was no more premix available. I thought I was done cutting for the season. Pulled out my Stihl 270, a bit cantankerous starting but seemed to run fine once running, and it had 1/2 a tank of fuel. Got 2 cuts done and then it wouldn't run above idle!!! Grabbed my Ego 2Ah battery and made the next cut with the Ego saw. 2Ah battery not real happy running the saw, pulled the 5Ah battery off the charger and finished my cutting for the day.
Note to self, get correct file for Ego chain and keep the chain SHARP.

I was expecting to hear you had to pull out the hand saws…

 

[IXLR8]

Do you use a guide or do you freehand file?

I use this file guide.

Oregon® Chainsaw Filing Guide, Bar Mount Design, Assists with Filing Chainsaw Chain for Better Consistency and Accuracy, 23820 | Oregon Products

Bar-mounted filing guide to manually sharpen your saw chain with precision. Get product specs and fit up info at OregonProducts.com.

www.oregonproducts.com

 

[IXLR8]

I was expecting to hear you had to pull out the hand saws…

I do have this, and have used it when I was younger... much younger:

http://s3.amazonaws.com/bonanzleimages/afu/images/0224/0017/Crosscut_Saw_long_002.JPG

But I no longer have the back/arm strength to pull it.

 

[Jstpssng]

Have you tried to install a battery your auto uses into you neighbors?

No. But last year when I needed to buy a battery for my tractor I tried to put the battery in from my pickup instead, then put the new battery in the truck.
It didn't work, as the posts are on opposite sides.

 

[Jstpssng]

Easy enough to sharpen that chain in a heated shop on a rainy Tuesday evening, rather than wasting precious daylight hours on it when it's needed

There's two schools of thought on this. Unless I've hit a rock or barbed wire it doesn't take long to touch up a chain.
I like to run a file across it every time I fuel anyways.

 

[WinterDeere]

There's two schools of thought on this. Unless I've hit a rock or barbed wire it doesn't take long to touch up a chain.
I like to run a file across it every time I fuel anyways.

Yeah, been 'round that debate awhile, among my cutting buddies, some of whom are tree pros. There's good arguments to be made on both sides, and truly most of the pros just hand-sharpen every second tank fill, but they're also operating under different economics: sharpen on the clock, billable hours, versus spending personal time in the evenings.

I've always just carried one or two spare loops for each of the saws I'm running that day, so I can swap the chain out if I hit a buried antique electrical insulator or spike in a tree, both of which are too common around here. If I don't manage to hit anything, I'll still usually do a chain swap on the one or two saws I'm using most, when I take a lunch break mid-day. Hand filing might be just as quick, in those cases, but I've gotten awful good and comfortable with my bench-mounted chain grinder. It's always hard to deviate from that in which we've already invested time and energy in perfecting, in pursuit of something new, especially if it doesn't hold promise of any really enormous advantage.

 

[CliffordK]

Couldn't agree more. I have extra chains for the Sthil and Echo saws, none yet for the EGO. I have only had it for a few months and wasn't sure if it was going to work out. I really like it and spare chains will be acquired this week. The issue is finding the correct file for the chain, it is a 4.5mm file and I am finding they are hard to come by. It might be easier to find a different chain that uses a more common file. For a while Oregon was putting the wrong file in their 4.5 mm package so I am hesitant on mail order.

Buy a few files?

How long would it take to reprofile the chain to whatever files you have, either one size smaller or one size larger.

With a small file, pull up slightly when filing.

I was out browsing Friday. The local Lowes had the EGO brand, and I think Oregon chains and bars. I didn't look at files.

i am a little annoyed with the product placement at various lumber stores. We have a local Oregon only lumber store, and I was disappointed that they didn't carry Oregon brand products anymore which I believe is a local company with international sourcing.

 

[ArlyA]

You need to use the correct size file.

 

[IXLR8]

I couldn't find the correct size locally. Amazon has files where the package is labeled correctly, but the files in the package are not the correct size. At the recommendation of someone on this site, I did find the next size larger file, it is only 0.001" larger in diameter and I have been using that file successfully.
Since getting the file and keeping the chain sharp... the EGO is now my go to saw.

 

[ArlyA]

I couldn't find the correct size locally. Amazon has files where the package is labeled correctly, but the files in the package are not the correct size. At the recommendation of someone on this site, I did find the next size larger file, it is only 0.001" larger in diameter and I have been using that file successfully.
Since getting the file and keeping the chain sharp... the EGO is now my go to saw.

How did you come up with the .001" larger? .001 is not much difference. Did you get the saw from Amazon? I ask because in the specs, they might say what file size you need or in "amazons suggestions to buy with it". Or if you have the chains size, we can figure out the correct files.

 

[CliffordK]

I did find the next size larger file, it is only 0.001" larger in diameter

That sounds almost within manufacturing tolerances. I'm surprised you can even tell the difference.

Hmmm...
4.5mm = 0.177165"
3/16" = 0.1875"

So, you're off by about 0.01".

Still within enough tolerance that you'll have the tooth reprofiled in either the first or second sharpening.

 

[KennyG]

As I recall, the 4.5mm and 3/16 are essentially the same chain and file, just how the manufacturer wants to label it.

 

[John_Mc]

4.5mm is very close to 11/64.

If you cannot find a 4.5mm it’s better on these low profile chains to go down a size, rather than go up.

So if 4.5mm is not available, look for a 4.0mm or 5/32” file. If you used one of the Oregon file guides (the kind that clips on to the file and is roughly 1” wide by 8” long) will help you establish the correct profile for the new file size

 

[xyz123]

IMO not going to matter much on these. I cant recall but think on wives battery chainsaw and pole saw I just use 5/32.

 

[cdaigle430]

I will never go back to gas powered chainsaws or yard machines. Get my milwaukee chains from Home Depot. Keep extras on hand just in case.