paulsharvey
Elite Member
You can also set grade pins with a 1x1 wooden stake and screed from that, and then hammer down or pull them out as you go
That handle is probably worth ten times what you paid for it now.I broke the wood handle on it a decade ago and now it has 3/4 copper pipe for a handle because that’s what I had laying around.
That's what we did. Works fine.You can also set grade pins with a 1x1 wooden stake and screed from that, and then hammer down or pull them out as you go
This is fine, so is wet blankets, or curing compound. It's not really necessary for our OPs work, but it doesn't hurt, and it does help get a bit more PSISome (what I consider to be) good advice I got from the guy that poured the slab in my shop was to keep the concrete wet for 30 days while it's curing. I just walked through with a garden hose and wetted it down every day after work.
Also did this on the floor I poured in the little pole barn and have no cracks in either one after 10 and 8 years, respectively.
If it was me, with little experience, I would hire someone, not necessary a contractor, who has done it before and volunteer to be the helper.That sounds about my speed, which means all the more reason to buy a mixer rather than renting.
How do you join the pours? Just wet against dry or do you put in an expansion strip.
Back in the 70's my neighbor poured a garage floor using forms that were about 2" taller than the finished floor would be.Some (what I consider to be) good advice I got from the guy that poured the slab in my shop was to keep the concrete wet for 30 days while it's curing. I just walked through with a garden hose and wetted it down every day after work.
Also did this on the floor I poured in the little pole barn and have no cracks in either one after 10 and 8 years, respectively.