Shop Air Compressor Maintenance Question

[drizler]

Grab one of those HF autodrains and plumb it on there then relax. I had to be creative to get mine to plumb in but it works just the same. All it does is fart every time the release trips . After a number of years probably 15 all I have is a stain of rust on the basement floor.
I pulled it once because I didn’t see any obvious signs of discharge and it was dry as a bone. Just be aware that it won’t do anything about the down line condensation. Metal pipe and a couple J traps deals with that . Mines just copper 3/4” water pipe . A nice high vertical run helps a lot too.

 

[ponytug]

Lol, with differing approaches, I thin both managed to answer my question. I suspect, with exception to extreme cases, leaving the drain valve likely only matters in terms of eeking a little more longevity at the extreme end of life span for compressors.

Given that it can be months in between compressor uses I will probably continue down the same path I have in the past... drain and close the valve after use.

I wouldn't mind adding a 1/4 turn valve and a muffler on the drain... unfortunately I don't have the ability to get the compressor up off the ground far enough to accommodate that modification.

In any case, I appreciate y'alls input!

I confess to adding the 1/4 turn on the bottom of the tank by feel. 90 degree elbow to some 1/8 copper tubing to the valve connected to the "muffler", which I surrounded by some larger PVC pipe because it was so darn loud.

I also have a valve right out of the compressor, but i lose air anyways. Has since new.never found out why, although i have looked at all fittings.

FWIW: I had a compressor motor control switch with a small pinhole leak once. It took me awhile to find it, because it never occurred to me that there might be a leak in the diaphragm, and who sprays sudsy water onto electrical contacts? My main air line had a leak in one of the elbows that I never found until the elbow failed catastrophically. Fortunately, the pieces missed me, but it surprised and scared the heck out of me when it blew. After replacing the elbow, no more so leak in the pipes.

All the best,

Peter

 

[grsthegreat]

I never thought about that, i can use soap leak testing fluid like i do for gas connections…..thanks

 

[Panik]

Panik​

I have a similar size air compressor. I removed the drain valve and plumbed in an elbow with a hose-barb. I clamped a 10 ft. long ¼ inch air hose onto the hose-barb and a Milton blowgun on the other end of the hose.

I coil the 10ft. long hose under the tank and elevate the end with the blowgun a few inches off the ground.

The condescend drips out of the tank and into the air-hose and remains there until I blow the line out.

Now that's some slick thinking!!

 

[5030]

Condensation in the supply piping is more of an issue in my shop than anything else as the shop is completely hard lined in black iron pipe, so on each drop there is a ball valve drain that gets drained regularly.

The compressors each have automatic drains that evacuate receiver condensation every 30 minutes.... and I run Motorguard replaceable filters on the plasma table as well as the cart mounted plasma cutter. Condensation is death on plasma consumables. Both compressors (A Quincy QP 10 horse and a Sullaire screw compressor) are on a maintenance schedule that includes changing the oil and cleaning the intake filters on a regular basis and the Quincy gets it's reed valves decarboned every year. I have a sizeable investment in compressors and neither are 'throw away' cheap box store units so maintaining them is important for me. The Quincy was almost 6 grand new and the Sullaire was around 9 grand. The Quincy is pressure lubed as is the Sullaire and each have spin on oil filters as well.

I use Shell Rarus compressor oil in both.
People tend to ignore their compressors until they fail. I depend on mine, consequently, they get maintained as most everything in the shop, from the CNC plasma table to the hand tools, die grinders, cut off tools and even the chucking accessories (I have air operated chucking on the mills), is air actuated and condensation in the air lines is always an issue.

 

[joeyd]

I installed a 1/4 turn ball valve on my drain. Whenever I use my compressor I give it a quick turn to open it and drain any condensate.

 

[5030]

Most new compressors now come with either a rimed drain valve or a pressure differential drain valve as standard equipment, at least reciprocating ones do. My screw compressor has a built in refrigerated dryer and I refitted my Quincy with a differential drain. It purges every time the compressor cycles.

 

[polarred21]

10 year old Kobalt 60 gallon compressor, I might drain it twice a year. If I'm painting, I'll drain it extra before time.

 

[thepumpguysc]

I have a 60 gal 155 psi rebranded “Mega” compressor that I can’t drain.. it has a hex screw on the bottom that when u “think” you back it out, the screw would come out and u could drain it or adapt the hole to something more manageable.. but NO.. the screw stops turning, comes to a dead stop..
& if u screw it the other way “up” it just screws until it reaches the bottom of the tank and stops..
It’s been that way since new..

 

[WinterDeere]

My stationary compressor has an automatic (time-based) auto drain, that I picked up on Amazon or eBay. It opens the drain for 2 seconds every 50 minutes, all day every day. Works great, other than it seems to always fire off precisely when I get a phone call. It also scares the hell out of anyone else who happens to be in my shop, as it just blows onto the floor.

On my portable compressor, I seem to only remember to drain it at the beginning of each work session, which is probably the worst practice of all. But who cares? Portable compressors aren't exactly heirlooms you're going to pass down to your grandkids. I suspect the tank on mine will be shot just about the same time the compressor itself fails.