Tractors and wood! Show your pics

[WinterDeere]

I have been told that having about 1.5" of space on each side is ideal for burning wood. Not sure if that is true.

Maybe! I guess you're talking about stoves that load with the wood sitting east-west, but then you'd be giving up 3" of total length? Might vary from one stove model to the next.

My stoves are deep, and load with the wood facing north-south. The fresh air is introduced above the front loading door, which is common on stoves with glass doors, as it helps keep the glass clean. Keeping the wood about 2" shorter than total firebox depth helps in three ways:

1. Improved air flow, more even burn.
2. Keeps the glass clean, it gets dark smudges where wood is very close.
3. Helps avoid probability of breaking the glass, when the wood is just 1 mm too long. Wood, ceramic glass, and firebrick don't have much give!

I load mine with the wood against the rear firebrick, in fact I sometimes accidentally break the rear firebricks when loading, but there's usually 1" - 2" air gap between the end of the wood and the door glass.

 

[newkiotiguy]

Dropped a tote in the garage now that winter has actually arrived

 

[groundcover]

Yep, brought over another to beat the storm.

 

[Molalla1]

Yep, brought over another to beat the storm.
View attachment 1947838

Nice DW . . .

 

[dodge man]

I split for a little over 2 hours today.

 

[Gordon Gould]

I split for a little over 2 hours today.

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Looks like perfect weather for splitting wood.

gg

 

[General Lee]

B2401 hauling some splits in the carryall

 

[General Lee]

American Beech is one of my favorites. It packs a lot of BTUs (a bit higher than Red Oak, similar to Sugar Maple, not qite as high as White Oak). It's also easy drying: second only to Ash as far as how little excess moisture it holds when freshly cut.

I second that

 

[CalG]

Looks like perfect weather for splitting wood.

gg

wood for next winter?

 

[Runner]

Back at brush removal and fence line cleanup yesterday. I have one last corner of the pasture that has been ignored for years and is now needing some fence repairs, so time to clean it up.

The area is about 80 feet each direction from the corner and mostly brush, deadwood and a few small trees (redbuds). Mission was to cut the brush and trees back 12 - 15 feet from the fence line and just back up with the tractor/chipper, blowing the chips into the wooded area as I went.

Decent day to work, close to 60 degrees, clear and light winds. Lots of nasty wild rose bushes and Bristly Greenbrier vines.

Bristly Greenbrier

Bristly greenbrier is a stout, perennial woody vine with bristlelike black spines, climbing high by tendrils to a length of 40 feet. Leaves are alternate, simple, 2–6 inches long, 2–5½ inches wide, oval, egg-shaped, heart-shaped, to broadly lance-shaped; tip blunt to pointed; margin entire but...

mdc.mo.gov

I really hate those things......

The work area is between the fence and the walnut tree in picture below.

Made my way to the corner, now looking back toward that walnut tree and the cleared area.

Looking toward the corner after clearing the east side. I later decided to remove a couple of the curvy redbuds on the right.

Looking north, along the east fence line from the corner.

Now I can get through there with my rotary cutter and maintain this area and fence line.

Still want to do some more brush thinning and cleanup in the wooded area to encourage growth of the desirable trees (walnut, oak and hickory). Will probably wind up cutting out all the trashy redbuds. But, that's work for another day....

NOTE: The author in NO WAY endorses operating tractors with ROPS in lowered position, especially when battling curvy redbuds and bristly greenbrier. Don't even THINK about doing it.