Tractors and wood! Show your pics

[newkiotiguy]

I'm heating a very large and relatively inefficient 300 year old house with wood, and so maximizing how much wood I can pack into the stoves with each load really impacts how much oil I need to burn to supplement the stoves. For this reason, I try to make sure every split is within 1/2" of the ideal length to maximize what I'm getting out of every load.

But I'm also processing 10 full cords per year for my own use, and at one time that was as high as 14 cords per year, so I don't have time for any method that takes more than a second or two. What I settled on was this:

1. Cut a handy stick (I prefer dimensional 1x2 = 3/4" x 1-1/2") to your preferred split length (18" for me).
2. Wrap some masking tape around it in a spiral, and hit it with a few coats of fluorescent orange or other high-contrast marking paint, so you don't lose the damn thing. Stripes work well, as no matter the color, there are no stripes in the nature of my back yard.
3. Holding that stick in my left hand and my top-handle saw in my right, I walk down the length of each log I'm ready to buck, and "kiss" it with the top handle saw. Typical saw kerf is probably only 1/2" - 1" deep, it's just a very-indellible marking tool.
4. Set top handle saw and stick aside, grab a real saw, and buck away.

Some prefer chalk or paint, but I always find there are conditions (wet, snow, etc.) where neither work. The top handle saw makes a nice quick kerf mark that works as a mark in all weather.

I use this magnetic 18 inch stick. I go down about 5 logs at a time then start bucking it up. I don't think there is a faster way

 

[WinterDeere]

I use this magnetic 18 inch stick. I go down about 5 logs at a time then start bucking it up. I don't think there is a faster way

Same idea. I actually tried that method once, but mine is even a little faster, thanks to a top-handle saw. If you don't have a top handle, then yes, I agree your method is probably the fastest alternative.

Your method may be safer, though. Top handle saws are only called "one handed" saws by those who haven't experienced kickback from one... yet.

 

[wolc123]

The firebox on our woodstove in the house will take up to 19” pieces, straight across. I usually aim for 16-18” when I am bucking. I never measure or mark and occasionally, I’ll cut one a little too long.

When I split those, I make them into smaller pieces that can be placed diagonally in the firebox, and/or use them for campfire wood.

We have a lot of those in the summer. Our new outside firepit (great great grandad’s old concrete silo base) will take 10 footers straight across:

 

[WinterDeere]

I always end up with a punky log, here or there, sometimes stuff I stacked when good but just didn't get to processing quickly enough, or other times EAB-killed trees that weren't taken down soon enough by their owners. Those go in a separate pile for our outdoor fire pit.

 

[Jstpssng]

Our new outside firepit (great great grandad’s old concrete silo base) will take 10 footers straight across

Now THAT'S a fire pit!!!!

 

[WinterDeere]

Now THAT'S a fire pit!!!!

I was smart enough to build my fire pit with a diameter two feet larger than my loader bucket, but not smart enough to realize I'd soon be replacing that tractor with one having a larger bucket.

 

[wolc123]

I was smart enough to build my fire pit with a diameter two feet larger than my loader bucket, but not smart enough to realize I'd soon be replacing that tractor with one having a larger bucket.

View attachment 3177459

Yeah, it’s handy having a couple extra feet of clearance on each side of the tractor bucket. That makes it a lot easier cleaning up all the broken branches from the yard in the spring.

Lots of wind last winter and lots of branches out there in the yard now waiting for cleanup. We will be having our first campfire of the season after I finish that job. There’s also a few well seasoned “longs” down on the end of the woodshed.

 

[goeduck]

1. Cut a handy stick (I prefer dimensional 1x2 = 3/4" x 1-1/2") to your preferred split length (18" for me).
2. Wrap some masking tape around it in a spiral, and hit it with a few coats of fluorescent orange or other high-contrast marking paint, so you don't lose the damn thing. Stripes work well, as no matter the color, there are no stripes in the nature of my back yard.
3. Holding that stick in my left hand and my top-handle saw in my right, I walk down the length of each log I'm ready to buck, and "kiss" it with the top handle saw. Typical saw kerf is probably only 1/2" - 1" deep, it's just a very-indellible marking tool.
4. Set top handle saw and stick aside, grab a real saw, and buck away.

Some prefer chalk or paint, but I always find there are conditions (wet, snow, etc.) where neither work. The top handle saw makes a nice quick kerf mark that works as a mark in all weather.

When I stretch my hand out, the thumb tip to index fingertip distance is 9". After each cut I hold the saw with my right hand, then span my left hand twice and eyeball a spot on the log for the next cut. I am within a 1/2" of 18" each and every time, depending on gloves or not. At the end of the log I get what I get and that goes in a separate pile. I have never lost my "measuring stick".

 

[Gordon Gould]

^^^^ Since where measuring hands I'll admit mine is only 6-3/4".
You must be a big guy geoduck. That's a slick method.

gg

 

[John_Mc]

My favorite measuring stick: If I put my hand out flat and just let my thumb stick out to the side in a relaxed manner (not stretching) the distance from the end of my thumb to the far edge of my palm is 6". I generally don't use this when measuring for cutting firewood.