ugghhh .... more advice needed!

   / ugghhh .... more advice needed! #21  
Yeah, not really a bad idea at all. I have seen cows scarf it up if burnt, but everything I've read in the past says it has no nutritional value...so why bother. And old damaged hay does help heal washes and ditches. But, as 5030 mentioned, a moisture and temp probe is really a good idea. I've had a couple of the Agra-Tronix with a long probe. Nowhere near as sophisticated as 5030's stuff, but it does seem to work.

Best of Luck
You can buy the bale chamber slip shoes separately from the Delmhorst moisture meters and I believe they are available from various outlets as well and they are operated on the same principle and so long as whatever meter you purchase, if it has an external jack on it, the shoes will interface with the meter.

Only reason I have a expensive Delmhorst is, it was the ONLY RM meter available at the time I bought mine, Agtronics was not on the market. Consequently, my choices were extremely limited.

One thing to keep in mind if you decide on purchasing either a Delmhorst or an Agtronics or some other moisture meter, is the 'sampling rate' the meter employs when using an external (in bale chamber) shoe. The sampling rate, in other words how many times the meter updates the readout per minute when in use. I know the Delmhorst updates itself every second when in use and that is important as it allows you to keep track closely of the RM of the forage in the bale chamber, which is constantly changing plus the you can ser the moisture threshold to whatever you want as the high point and it will alarm (just like when in the handheld mode) when that level is reached. I don't know if the Agtronics operates the same way as I don't have one.

Also keep in mind that both the meters interface with the bale shoes via a cable so you will have an etra cable running from the tractor to the bailer itself. Don't matter if the baler is a round bailer or a small square bailer or a large square bailer, they all have bale chambers and that is where the moisture sensing shoe(s) are located at. As an aside, I run Multiple shoes in my bale chamber, one at the far end and one in the center, when I have them plugged in that is. Most times I let my experience dictate when it's time to bale.

Running hay and when to bale is all about experience and knowing when to bale and when not to bale.

Because I run mostly alfalfa, I try not to disturb the forage anymore than I have to because the more times I rake or ted it, the more leaf loss I get with alfalfa. Alfalfa is touchy in as much as leaf loss with alfalfa is a big issue and my customer wants the cut alfalfa to have as much leaf present as possible so I try not to rake or ted it as little as possible and the main reason why I use a Kuhn rotary rake instead of a side delivery rake. The Kuhn rakes a light fluffy windrow that allows air to pass through easily and it's the air that dries the forage out. I have a tedder but rarely use it, only as a last resort because if you Ted it out, you will need to rake it again and the more times you ted or rake it, the more leaf loss is incurred.

Of course, none of that applies to grass hay. You can rake and ted grass hay with no leaf loss because there aren't any leaves, just grass stalks.

What I bale, when I cut it and when I process it for bailing is critical for me plus I want the alfalfa to just be in bloom and no more. Sure I'd like to have the alfalfa go to maturity and let the plants produce their own seed to reseed the fields as certified alfalfa seed is very expensive but it don't work that way. It needs to be cut, raked and bailed before the alfalfa plants reach full maturity, so it's a game with me and the game is, can I beat mother nature and avoid a rain event, has the alfalfa reached maturity but hasn't went to seed and what is the weather window look like after I cut it before I rake and bale it. All a game actually and sometimes I win and sometimes I loose and the price per bale sold entirely depends on the tested nutrient value, especially with my customer who requires the forage is tested for nutrient value along with the actual relative moisture.

I always say 'your mileage may vary'. I know what mine is however.

I still remember many years ago when I first started running hay with a side delivery rake (I refer to as a roper rake), an old New Holland small intake bailer that would mis tie regularly and an ancient Farmall tractor pulling the rake and bailer along with borrows flat racks and a team of kids handling them and loading the barn loft. That all changed for me with new equipment and no more squares, just net wrapped round bales and climate controlled tractors. Of course none of that came cheap either. Only the tractors remain the same now. The bailer I use is fully computer controlled and nets or twines (I don't use the twine option but I do keep a couple balls of it in the twine box just in case I have an issue with the netting function), A Kuhn Rotary rake as well as a Kuhn tedder I rarely use and a New Holland center swing discbine with rubber chevron conditioning rolls, though I'm contemplating purchasing a new Kubota center pivot discbine as my NH is fully depreciated. Financially, it's always prudent to turn over equipment once it's fully depreciated and purchase new. besides, used but still late model equipment always has a high resale value.

I keep my tractors because they can run the equipment efficiently plus they are Pre 4 units so no computer driven emissions junk to worry about. 100% mechanical injection, I have no desire to fiddle with the new fangled and issue prone units whatsoever and never will. I had my friendly Kubota dealer's head tech who is a good friend of mine, turn them both up a tad anyway and it didn't impact fuel consumption at all either. Had him shim the pumps and set them both at 10 horses over stock, not that I needed to, I wanted to. One thing I'm '****' about is maintaining all my implements and tractors. I learned a long time ago that 'they never break in the barn' but they surely break down when you need them the most, so timely maintenance with me is paramount, especially with my older tractors. They get regular oil and fluid changes and I keep them clean and tidy as well. I don't like filthy tractors or implements for that matter. I even keep keep grease guns in the tool boxes (along with the owners manuals) in the tool boxes. You won't find dirty oil or filth on anything I own and use. How I play. Every time I use the round baler, it gets blown off to remove and chaff and greased prior to storage inside the barn. Nice thing about my new Kubota BV sileage special round bailer is it came with the optional pressurized automatic oiling system so I no longer have to oil any chains or moving assemblies. It does that by itself and all I really have to do is grease the PTO driveline and blow the accumulated chaff off and keep the oil tank filled.

Again, how I do it. Your mileage may vary again but I know what mine is and I address it accordingly. No more idiot cubes here and I'm glad of that actually and I sold my NH 575 high capacity square bailer a couple years ago for more than I paid for it because I took care of it and they guy who bought it had no qualms about the price either. It went with complete service records as well. I keep track of everything I do to all of it, all the time. He got a turn key small square bailer (with the moisture shoes in it) that was 100% ready to work with 0 issues. I don't miss idiot cubes at all actually.

Every operation is different, no 2 are alike. How I approach it and how you approach it will be different. In my case, I don't purchase old tired equipment though I started out with old tired equipment but graduated away from that pretty quick. Fixing junk is still fixing. Something I prefer not doing.
 
   / ugghhh .... more advice needed!
  • Thread Starter
#22  
Southern Speed, next time you bale, be more patient.
Use the twist test to see if it’s ready to bale.
If it’s ready to bale, bale it preferably in the sun, only after it’s DRY.
Twist test a dozen spots in your field
The stems need to crack between your hands while doing twist test.

Most big AG universities publish on line literature on curing & storing baled hay.
Check em out.
Yeah, I thought I was safe but ....
I did several twist test and everything was dry and crunchy but I did notice some 'chewy' stems in there. In hindsight, there must have been a lot more of the green stems than I thought.
 
   / ugghhh .... more advice needed! #23  
Yeah, I thought I was safe but ....
I did several twist test and everything was dry and crunchy but I did notice some 'chewy' stems in there. In hindsight, there must have been a lot more of the green stems than I thought.
Also don’t forget to check in shady spots or low/damp areas. Or skip those areas and do them last in one bale, and put that bale outside or feed it asap
 
   / ugghhh .... more advice needed!
  • Thread Starter
#24  
Also don’t forget to check in shady spots or low/damp areas. Or skip those areas and do them last in one bale, and put that bale outside or feed it asap
Last year we had our usual good, very popular horse hay but we had foxtail in it for the first time. I wasn't going to sell it to horse people but a couple we know with cattle were happy to take it at half price. My wife talked to them yesterday and mentioned what had just happened and they said they'd take it. We gave it to them for free but they dropped of some home made sausages and ground pork, my kind of deal!
Lesson learnt, on to the next cut. Thanks for all the comments and advice gentlemen.
 
   / ugghhh .... more advice needed! #25  
Last year we had our usual good, very popular horse hay but we had foxtail in it for the first time. I wasn't going to sell it to horse people but a couple we know with cattle were happy to take it at half price. My wife talked to them yesterday and mentioned what had just happened and they said they'd take it. We gave it to them for free but they dropped of some home made sausages and ground pork, my kind of deal!
Lesson learnt, on to the next cut. Thanks for all the comments and advice gentlemen.
To stay away from Foxtail, cut sooner-before it heads out. Young foxtail, before seed heads, is good grass
 
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   / ugghhh .... more advice needed! #26  
Last year we had our usual good, very popular horse hay but we had foxtail in it for the first time. I wasn't going to sell it to horse people but a couple we know with cattle were happy to take it at half price. My wife talked to them yesterday and mentioned what had just happened and they said they'd take it. We gave it to them for free but they dropped of some home made sausages and ground pork, my kind of deal!
Lesson learnt, on to the next cut. Thanks for all the comments and advice gentlemen.
Cattle will scarf it down, but I don’t particularly like feeding hot/moldy hay to anything.
 
   / ugghhh .... more advice needed! #27  
Works with mostly grass hay, don't work very well with alfalfa, in fact if I employed the 'twist test', I'd probably be screwed.

If I'm bailing and I don't get any chaff haze above the bailer, I know the forage is too wet without even hooking up the slip shoes so I quit and come back the next day (after lunch always) and start again. If I'm bailing in a chaff fog, I know it's dry enough and typically, when I bale at 15% RM, the compressed bales will climb up to 22-25% RM after finishing and then drop back down. The new bailer I have, I can custom set bale compression on the fly. That is, I can start a soft center bale (for easy spearing) and then as the bale grows, the baler increases the bale compression to a max of 2500 psi which makes for a very tight and weather resistant bale, especially when netted. Does that all by itself with no input from me at all except for the initial settings. The other thing I like about this baler is, it carries an extra net roll right Above the one being used and it senses end of roll and tells me I need to stop and pull the near empty net roll out and allow the bailer to drop in a new roll. All I have to do is take about a 15" tail on the new roll and feed it into a cutout on the right side of the bailer, reset the roll gage and go back to work. The first bale it rolls, it senses if the net has spread all the way across and if not it won't let me eject the bale until it senses a full wrap of at least 2 revolutions of the finished bale.

It was a learning curve for me as I was used to a 570 series New Holland where you did everything manually. Of course all that electronic wizardry has it's price. This new bailer set me back around 40 grand but I traded in the NH when I bought this one and my friendly and long time Kubota dealer gave me one heck of a deal and no interest as well plus quarterly payments and it's almost paid off.

Had some issues with it far as netting was concerned and I had to get the Kubota regional rep out here (along with the lead tech at the dealership) to figure out what was transpiring as the brain in the bailer can only be accessed with the right code and neither myself or my dealer had that. Took the regional rep to get into the brain box and reset the initial tail parameters for it to wrap correctly. That was quite a few bales ago and no issues since. I'm a dummy when it comes to electronics anyway. Why I'll never have a T4 final tractor, don't want any tractor that is computer controlled. Bad enough having a computer driven bailer, but I will say, when it's running right and once I got familiar with what it could do, it's a real joy to run. I can vary all the parameters on the fly, I can even vary them while it's forming a bale if I want to and I can switch from net to twine and back while the bale is wrapping if I want to. Though I have not ran twine at all, this baler has intersecting dual twine arms that overlap each other so according to Kubota, it produces a 'net like' effect with twine. Have not tried it but a may at some point to see what it looks like. Pretty neat stuff and makes my old NH look like a rock. Sure lke to buy a new Kubota center swing haybine with chevron rolls but I'm on the fence since I'm not running nearly the ground I was running so not sure I can justify a new machine. Time will tell. The NH is the mow max model and has the wide-thin kit on it as well and it does a good job, just getting old and fully depreciated. I grease it and change the knives every other year and of course keep it clean and that is about it. I may hard rod the slip shoes this summer, not sure but new shoes are very expensive at it takes 8 of them at 250 a toss. Kind of wish NH made poly shoe covers for it, but they don't.
 
   / ugghhh .... more advice needed! #28  
One issue I don't have are weeds, fox tail included. I spray the fields with 24D B Buteryac which is buffered 24D and that handles the weed issue for me 100%. Unlike 24D, 24D B is pretty expensive and only made by one outfit but I do buy it direct from them. I will fertilize after this first cut and between subsequent cuts as well but I use a Foliar Innoculant for fertilizer as alfalfa prefers to aspirate it's nutrients primarily through the leaves. I imagine with grass hay, any pelletized or granular urea will work, kind of like fertilizing your lawn but on a larger scale. I use 28 granulated prills on my garden all the time. That stuff got stupid expensive since most of it comes from Ukraine. Foliar Innoculant on the other hand has stayed reasonable, sort of.
 
   / ugghhh .... more advice needed! #29  
One issue I don't have are weeds, fox tail included. I spray the fields with 24D B Buteryac which is buffered 24D and that handles the weed issue for me 100%. Unlike 24D, 24D B is pretty expensive and only made by one outfit but I do buy it direct from them. I will fertilize after this first cut and between subsequent cuts as well but I use a Foliar Innoculant for fertilizer as alfalfa prefers to aspirate it's nutrients primarily through the leaves. I imagine with grass hay, any pelletized or granular urea will work, kind of like fertilizing your lawn but on a larger scale. I use 28 granulated prills on my garden all the time. That stuff got stupid expensive since most of it comes from Ukraine. Foliar Innoculant on the other hand has stayed reasonable, sort of.
How can you use 2-4-D on alfalfa?
 
   / ugghhh .... more advice needed! #30  
Of course, none of that applies to grass hay. You can rake and ted grass hay with no leaf loss because there aren't any leaves, just grass stalks.
I don't know what species of grass you're referring to that has no leaves but the type of grass hay I've custom baled down here in Texas for over 30 years has leaves. I personally don't like to rake grass hay more than one time.
 

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